The Deavers were better than I expected

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fitzmotor

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I have read a lot of positive things about them, I thought "my springs are wore out and slapping around" I might as well go with the Deavers, I really needed to change them, primarily due to the wheel hop and the left one was looking ugly, sitting lower than the right one and like a crack may be forming around one of the pin holes.

I was really surprised, the wheel hop was gone, I can now drive it like I want, but what I did not expect was the ride is much better, the freeways with the expansion joints where it picks up a hopping motion was gone, body roll was greatly reduced, I was going to put on a rear sway bar but it's not needed now, the front and back of the truck are more balanced with the body roll.

The difference over speed bumps is great, it used to have a double bump sensation over bumps like the axle was bouncing twice, now it's a single hop like a normal rear suspension, but here is where I have to say that I do not roll over speed bumps like a chick in a Prius trying not to spill her Starbucks, speed bumps are everywhere here, and when I see guys with jacked up trucks who could drive over curbs crawling over speed bumps like a snail, I pass them on the left on the throttle (no offense to bump crawlers here) but hey, shocks dont last forever, use them hard like the truck was meant to do.

I got distracted there, sorry, I dont care for rugged 4x4 trucks being driven soft, bottom line, the springs are a solid upgrade, Jeff at Deaver was great, he gave me some install tips, they went right in, it feels like a different truck, I should not have waited so long to do it, I highly recommend them.
 

CoronaRaptor

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Glad to hear that you are enjoying them, have had mine on for almost 7 years now, can't find anything wrong except the surface rust, which I hit with fluid film yearly.
 

pastorwug

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They were a custom height, stock -1.5"
I'm sorry, could you explain this to me please?

You bought Deaver springs, +1, +2, +3?
Then you had the height lowered to -1.5"?

I ask because it sounds like what I'd like to do, better ride, etc.
 

MTF

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If add the rear sway bar you will be even more amazed on how she handles on the highway.
Changing lanes is effortless, if you need to be aggressive.
I hope you're on mid-perch too? This also helps stop body roll and nose diving.
 

K223

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If add the rear sway bar you will be even more amazed on how she handles on the highway.
Changing lanes is effortless, if you need to be aggressive.
I hope you're on mid-perch too? This also helps stop body roll and nose diving.

No loss of articulation with the sway bar add?
 
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fitzmotor

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Deaver made a de-arched pair to -1.5, I wanted a almost level truck, the swaybar has been on order for weeks, (and still is a month away) I think after I read the comment above I will try it when it shows, its not supposed to limit the articulation according to some of the write ups, it's the Hellwig 3/4 bar #7724, made just for the Raptor, but it has to limit travel to some extent, I drive it like a sports car, so I would give some of the furthest limits of the travel.
 

MTF

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No, it doesn't limit anything.
And just put them on the hardest setting, I started with the weakest but the hardest works the best.
It's only 3/4" it's not stiff enough even on the hardest setting.

And get the locking collars, they help with the bar shifting left to right.
I also had KHC tack weld the U-bolt brackets to the rear axle tubes they do move as well.
 
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fitzmotor

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Good info on the collars, I have used those on road race cars, I will likely set it to the hardest setting as I like to be able to flat slide anything I drive.
Do you have a stock spare in the stock location? it looks like the bar will clear but I saw a few comments about spare tire contact with the sway bar but they dont state the tire size of the spare.
 
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