DMH Cutout - Double WOW!!!

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RaptorScrew

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The 2010 raptors didn't have a resonator so I didn't have to worry about that part but yea most o the guys are cutting out the resonator and keeping it just in case they have to weld it back in for whatever reason

For the wiring I bought some 14 gauge wire from pep boys and ran the positive wire over to where the aux wires are behind the glove box and tapped into the #4 switch wire which is the small brown wire for the power for the negative I attached that to the center consol frame where t attaches to the upper consol by the gas pedal it's like a mounting bracket and that worked great for me if you need I can tak pics tomorrow and how you how I wired mine

The switch I put on the panel right under the steering wheel there's 2 clips that pull out on the top and 3 screw on te bottom then after taking that off I took my Dremal and carefully cut out the spot for te switch

Thanx for this info. So, If I understand right; I can tap into the Aux 4 switch. With the switch in the "ON" position, that will turn the Toggle switch hot. With Aux 4 off, there will be no power to the Toggle Switch. Then I just ground out the other wire. Correct?
 

GsxrRaptor

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Thanx for this info. So, If I understand right; I can tap into the Aux 4 switch. With the switch in the "ON" position, that will turn the Toggle switch hot. With Aux 4 off, there will be no power to the Toggle Switch. Then I just ground out the other wire. Correct?


you got it..... just get a tapping screw and tap it to the inner dashboard bracket by all the aux wires..
 

pat'sRAPTOR

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Yup just like GSXR said he's the one that explained how to wire it all and I followed his advice and BAM works great I actually like the fact that I can turn the toggle switch off and not have the power to the switch just in case I were to bump the switch with my knee or something and it won't burn out the motor
 

Fozzy

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Mine is painted and so is the turn down. My bolt problem is that both bolt and nut touch the pipe when they start to get tight. With out the turn down you would have one side that would turn 360, while the other nut would lock itself against the pipe. I got them as tight as I could with a wrench I cut off a little to give the 1/16 turn BS. The instruction said after a 30 hours to tighten the butterfly bolts. When its time to do this I will need to take the turn down off to get to it and will install SS Allen head bolts and that should make it work a lot better. Did not have time to wire it but opened it up and it sounds good. I was expecting it to be a lot louder.

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Aaron

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Damn, now after reading this I might have this stupid paint melting smell too. I didn't even think of that. damn, damn damn. :ROFLJest:\
Tizz, I'll let you know if mine starts getting stinky too.
 

pat'sRAPTOR

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Yea I can see what your talking about with out the turn down the bra were the same was for me. I just check the butterfly Bolts and still tight didn't even move a bit. I don't know about yours but my ***** stupid loud haha it could be the turn down that's makin it seem not as loud cause it's throwing the sound waves down at the ground as where mine are going straight out right under the passenger side door man you should see the looks on the people faces in these little rice burner cars when I stomp on the gas hahahahahahahahaha I swear they shot there pants cause that cutout is about the level of there window :peace:
 

RaptorScrew

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Just had the Badlanz cutout installed today (welded) for $40.

My question is on the motor: should the hinge on the butterfly be in or out?
I think it should be out but he installed it to the inside. So, when I'm looking at the cutout I see the two screws in the middle of the butterfly. Is this correct or should I turn it around when I get home?

I have yet to run the wiring (this weekend I hope) and it's driving me nuts waiting to hear what this beast was meant to sound like!!!

I had him remove the resonator and I'm keeping it for future use if needed.


:peace:
 
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