I got my rears rebuilt and re-installed with m3dragons (I had not seen his name posted in this thread, so I am not using it) assistance and patience in answering all of my questions and sending me some of the rubber pellets and bleeder screws. I could not have done this without his video and his step by step instructions. Thank you again for all of this. I will attempt the fronts at a later date.
A couple of notes in the interest of helping the community:
Shock oil stinks similar to or something just less than gear oil if you know that smell. Work over an area that has some kind of catch pan and lots of towels as previously stated in the original instructions. OP was not kidding when he mentioned these things.
After stabbing myself in the thumb with a pick, I found an easy way to get the plastic out of the screw that covers the rubber pellet. Take a small Phillips head screw that has a smaller diameter than the concave opening of the pellet screw and thread in 2 or 3 threads of said small screw. Rock the screw head, that is now threaded into the plastic, side to side with your fingers or a pair of pliers and it should pop right out...no holes in your thumb or hand.
To aid in getting the 3 seals into the screw cap on the shock (1 white and 2 black ones that point up) you can use a chop stick (like the one you get from Chinese restaurants) to help pry/push them into place without damaging the cap or the seals.
My rears had 61K miles on them of mostly street driving. The shock pressures that I was able to read were 85# in the drivers shock and less than 60# in the passengers shock. I will not call these precise measurements, but the best that I could get with the needle and gauge. This is much lower than the 240# that I added after the rebuild. I could easily compress the shocks when I took them out.... after, not hardly at all.
