What did you do to your Raptor today? (Gen2)

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Old-Raptor-guy

FRF Addict
Joined
Jul 25, 2021
Posts
1,755
Reaction score
3,938
Location
USA
View attachment 462163Must be spark plug season… Bought these Ruthenium plugs when my last coil went out a couple months ago, but never had time to install ‘em until today.

View attachment 462164

Interesting little bump/extension on the ground side; thought it was a manufacturing defect when I saw the first one as I was checking the gap, but they all have it. Will pull a couple of these in a couple weeks to check on wear:

View attachment 462165

The old ones look pretty good for almost 50K miles on ‘em:

View attachment 462166
I just install those same plugs a couple weeks ago.

The "bump/extension " is the piece of ruthenuiem welded to the ground conductor. The ground conductor is cut back to try and unshield the spark/flame kernel, to promote a more even burn. This is an OLD hotrodder trick good for 5-10 hp 50 years ago.
 
Last edited:

91Eunos

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2018
Posts
759
Reaction score
1,251
Location
Hill country, Tejas
I just install those same plugs a couple weeks ago.

The "bump/extension " is the piece of ruthenuiem welded to the ground conductor. The ground conductor is cut back to try and unshield the spark/flame kernel, to promote a more even burn. This is an OLD hotrodder trick good for 5-10 hp 50 years ago.
I know it’s probably confirmation bias or maybe just wishful thinking, but I swear the truck feels “peppier” after the plug change.

It honestly feels like it’s running smoother and has more power, but can’t see how it would be something I could feel by the seat of my pants, unless one of the old plugs was really bad and not firing correctly, but if it was that bad, I’d expect the ECU to throw a code.

Possible the new plugs are just that much better I suppose.
 

Reaper308

FRF Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2020
Posts
501
Reaction score
624
Location
Texas
Was it necessary to drop the front axle assembly to get that cover on?
I would say yes it made it in my opinion doable. It’s a tight fit but with it down you could slightly move the diff around to get the cover up in there. Now with the diff down and new cover on I was able to get all but the top driver side cover bolt in and I started torquing them down staring from the bottom so that the last one to be torqued would be the top one I couldn’t get to with the diff down. Once I had 9 of the 10 bolts in and torqued I put the diff up and bolted back in. I then was able to get the last bolt on the cover in and torqued. It’s not an easy bolt to get to.
 
Last edited:

Reaper308

FRF Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2020
Posts
501
Reaction score
624
Location
Texas
Also I did not use the bolts that came with it. I had gone and gotten high quality Stainless Steel 304 Hex Flange 5/16-18 3/4” that work great. Just FYI.
 
Top