Our Engine’s

[SRPRACING]

That testing isn’t on a direct injection turbocharged engine.

 

[EricM]

im pretty sure amsoil didnt just toss that number out there

Exactly. The oil will easily last 20K miles.

The trick is filtering it properly for that period of time. Most guys running extended oil change intervals still change the filter per the recommended OCI schedule and add a fresh quart.

I don't see the point in doing extended changes on a personal vehicles though. You are still doing the worst part of the job, which is the filter. The money you save is pretty negligible in the grand scheme of total vehicle costs as well. There are less oil changes, but the better oil does cost more up front.

I will say the top mount cartridge style filters might flip my thoughts on this though. You can easily swap in a new filter and lose practically no oil.

 

[MnFlyer]

So what’s the best filter for our engines?


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[FordPerf Addict]

So what’s the best filter for our engines?


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This was my next questions I heard the full synthetic motor crafts were good quality


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[SRPRACING]

I’m not the saying the oil will not last that long. I’m just saying it’s not going to be the same viscosity or quality that it should be for the engine.

 

[EricM]

I’m not the saying the oil will not last that long. I’m just saying it’s not going to be the same viscosity or quality that it should be for the engine.

Well, you are incorrect about that. 20K miles is nothing for a top end synthetic oil. It will maintain it's viscosity and TBN without issue.

 

[SRPRACING]

Yes for any n/a engine. Not a forced induction engine not direct injection. Our engines produce quite a bit more fuel dilution than standard port injection. The only way to find the truth is for someone to actually run a UOA with 20k miles. We all have our own views on this. I’m just giving mine. I’m not controlling the man lol.

Filter wise Motor-craft is a safe bet. They have a high quality drain back valve which is important. Amsoils filters are indeed high quality too.

 

[CigarPundit]

So what’s the best filter for our engines?


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Admittedly, I'm an Amsoil fan boy, but I use the Amsoil ASLQT

 

[M3sparky]

Yes for any n/a engine. Not a forced induction engine not direct injection. Our engines produce quite a bit more fuel dilution than standard port injection. The only way to find the truth is for someone to actually run a UOA with 20k miles. We all have our own views on this. I’m just giving mine. I’m not controlling the man lol.

Filter wise Motor-craft is a safe bet. They have a high quality drain back valve which is important. Amsoils filters are indeed high quality too.

i have a few blackstone oil sample cans that i use for the gtr , i could also send them my oil to see a full test review of it after a certain amount of miles to determine any changes.

 

[zemuron99]

Mobil 1 is pure junk. I guess I am biased but having been involved in Nitro Drag bike racing and NASCAR the only lubricants used were Red Line on everything, grease, trans oil, diff lube, and motor oil.

Couldn't DISagree more. I ran M1 full syn in a supercharged '98 Tacoma V-6 for over 15 years, with about 5K-6.5K change intervals. Had 185K miles on it. That engine ran as quiet and smooth as the day it was assembled. I sold it or I'd still be running it today. Your racing environment may be different enough to make that statement true, but I doubt it's true for daily motoring.

I did a UOA on Rotella T6 and here are the results.

I plan to do an analysis on Amsoil SS as well.

Johnny: Here's my latest UOA from my '17. 11.4k miles total, about 5300 on the oil. Mobil1 Full Syn w/an M-1 filter. The only real difference I see is my moly number is higher than yours, and viscosity is slightly lower. My oil change indicator was reading about 50% oil life left IIRC. I'm still running the new oil from that change, will let the OLM get down to about 25% OR hit 7k miles and see how it does. To me these read about the same.

"These ecoboost have quite a bit of fuel dilution. So changing sooner is definitely recommend compared to the manual."

I disagree with this, in all three UOA's I've had done, fuel % has been less than 0.5%.

"Last thing, a good tip is if your truck is sitting for a few days and you are going to drive it. Hold down the gas pedal and turn the truck on. This cycles the engine without it actually running. Which helps build pressure and gets oil moving."

I agree with this. As it's not my DD, if it sets more than 2 days (more often than not), the first key cycle is always w/the gas pedal depressed fully. After the starter automatically stops, at around 8 seconds cranking, let it sit about 15 seconds or so, the do the same. Once the oil gauge moves up, foot of the gas and let it fire.

"It’s well documented on this forum that a little bit of fuel does get into the oil of these engines. " "

Again, never been above 0.5% in any of my three UOA's.

"I feel a lot better about spending $30 for a reputable, quality oil and changing it often rather than running a “high end” oil for excessive amounts of time.

Just an opinion. Take it or leave it. "

I'll take it, I'm still testing, if you will, what the ideal interval is based on UOA reports. I do mostly open highway driving, very little city stop/go traffic (though not none at all), so my numbers may skew toward the longer side as the oil spends most of it's time at operating temp, thus evaporating the water/fuel that may make their way into it.

"Even going to about 7000miles is pushing it."

Again, based on UOA, I'd disagree. 5300 miles on the last one with good viscosity and plenty of TBN life left. Currently at just over 6K on the current fill, oil life monitor still showing about 45% life left, planning on taking it to about 7K and then sending a sample in for testing. Based on how that comes back I may/may not change it at that time and settle on an interval.