halogrinder
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GEN 2 First oil change
- Thread starter CFIT
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fx4210
Full Access Member
I've usually done the first oil swap at 500, 1500, and every 3500 (3000-4000) after that. That's just what my dad taught me to do when I was a kid and its treated me pretty well so far. I'll read the manual when the truck comes in and unless it tells me that this will cause problems I'll keep at it because its a habit. I do the oil changes myself so I'm not too worried about the added cost of oil and filters.
No offense but I think tech has changed. Just a waste of oil and time and money to do that frequent on a modern engine with synthetic oil.
fx4210
Full Access Member
Yeah I need to do more research on full synthetics this upcoming truck will probably be the change to longer intervals. I think I'll still do my 500, 1500 even if it is a waste of time the peace of mind is definitely worth it. This trucks come with blended oil from the factory? is there a procedure for switching to full synthetic (minimum mileage before the change)?
sobiloff
Active Member
Manufacturers are under significant pressure, mostly from European regulators, to lengthen their service intervals to reduce the environmental impact of their vehicles. There's also a significant marketing advantage to claim only 10/15/20K service intervals are necessary, which also allows manufacturers to inexpensively throw in regular maintenance for a few years. All of those things are enticing to new buyers.
Many new car purchasers also don't keep their cars beyond the warranty or lease period, so they don't care about the long-term effects of the manufacturer's maintenance intervals. Those intervals are set to give most vehicles a good chance of not having a major issue before the warranty expires. They are NOT designed to get you significantly beyond the warranty. @halogrinder 's experience with BMWs sludging up is also seen with some VW, Audi, and Toyota engines because of poor PCV designs and unrealistic recommended service intervals. Direct injection creates a whole 'nuther range of issues with carbon fouling and fuel dilution of the oil.
Take a look at Ford's owners manuals; you may be surprised at the "severe service" recommendations and how easy it is to fall into the "severe service" classification. I buy brand new vehicles and I try to keep them for 10+ years. When it comes to maintenance, I generally follow the severe service recommendations and they haven't failed me yet.
Bringing us back on topic, I do used oil analysis to determine my oil change intervals.
On a new engine I do an oil change after a couple hundred miles of full throttle blasts to about 75% of redline, then coasting down, to get the rings to seal well. I do everything I can to constantly vary the RPMs. There are a lot of initial wear particles that are generated during this period, so I like to get them out of the engine before they can adhere or wear against other components and cause trouble down the road.
Then I go about 3,000 miles on the new oil and send a sample to the lab. Sometimes the oil is working well and I can extend the interval, but sometimes it isn't and I need to find a different oil that can handle my specific application better. The only way to know this is by testing.
The Ford Oil Life Monitor (OLM) is pretty neat, but it doesn't actually test the oil so it's only giving you a best guess, subject to the previously mentioned pressure to maximize the length of service intervals.
(And, no, dealers don't make a bunch of money doing your oil changes so Ford doesn't have an incentive get you in there more often. Dealers do them, and the free 32-point (or whatever) inspection, because they're hoping to find other service items that need to be done that actually do make them money.)
So go ahead and follow the OLM. It's better than many other manufacturer's systems or generic written guidelines. But, it's not perfect and it's not optimal if you value longevity more than convenience. The way to optimize your oil change intervals is through testing your used oil, not arguing over how perfect Ford's engineers are (or are not).
Many new car purchasers also don't keep their cars beyond the warranty or lease period, so they don't care about the long-term effects of the manufacturer's maintenance intervals. Those intervals are set to give most vehicles a good chance of not having a major issue before the warranty expires. They are NOT designed to get you significantly beyond the warranty. @halogrinder 's experience with BMWs sludging up is also seen with some VW, Audi, and Toyota engines because of poor PCV designs and unrealistic recommended service intervals. Direct injection creates a whole 'nuther range of issues with carbon fouling and fuel dilution of the oil.
Take a look at Ford's owners manuals; you may be surprised at the "severe service" recommendations and how easy it is to fall into the "severe service" classification. I buy brand new vehicles and I try to keep them for 10+ years. When it comes to maintenance, I generally follow the severe service recommendations and they haven't failed me yet.
Bringing us back on topic, I do used oil analysis to determine my oil change intervals.
On a new engine I do an oil change after a couple hundred miles of full throttle blasts to about 75% of redline, then coasting down, to get the rings to seal well. I do everything I can to constantly vary the RPMs. There are a lot of initial wear particles that are generated during this period, so I like to get them out of the engine before they can adhere or wear against other components and cause trouble down the road.
Then I go about 3,000 miles on the new oil and send a sample to the lab. Sometimes the oil is working well and I can extend the interval, but sometimes it isn't and I need to find a different oil that can handle my specific application better. The only way to know this is by testing.
The Ford Oil Life Monitor (OLM) is pretty neat, but it doesn't actually test the oil so it's only giving you a best guess, subject to the previously mentioned pressure to maximize the length of service intervals.
(And, no, dealers don't make a bunch of money doing your oil changes so Ford doesn't have an incentive get you in there more often. Dealers do them, and the free 32-point (or whatever) inspection, because they're hoping to find other service items that need to be done that actually do make them money.)
So go ahead and follow the OLM. It's better than many other manufacturer's systems or generic written guidelines. But, it's not perfect and it's not optimal if you value longevity more than convenience. The way to optimize your oil change intervals is through testing your used oil, not arguing over how perfect Ford's engineers are (or are not).
halogrinder
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Agreed, over oiling and really a waste of resources.
We do 1200 mile services on all of our engines that we build, after initial ring seat and first run.
Nah, just change it. Be done. No procedure needed.
500 and 1500 may be excessive for peace of mind. i did the switch to full synthetic at 1500 on both my eb. second at 5k. then 5-10k depending on the oil life monitor, mpg loss, or just yearly on my 14eb. 0 issues. gonna do the same with this truck. 5-10k intervals or yearly depending on miles driven. note i do have alot of idle sitting waiting to pick the kid up. 2 remote starts 5 days a week to adjust cabin temp/warm up the turbo/tranny.
step one is turn off engine augmentation so you can hear and feel the truck better. also start on 91 or better after the first tank is used. why have the potential and not use it?
edit also know that the eb is hard on plugs. 30-45k miles before rough idle starts. 140 for 6 plugs and boots, 45 min, and a kam reset fixes it.
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fx4210
Full Access Member
Gotcha, I'll definitely keep it in mind. like I said I haven't gotten the manual in hand so I'll have to read up either way.
I know this is an oil thread but thoughts on ethanol free I have it here locally? Which do you think would be of most benefit?
halogrinder
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Ethanol (E85 or any blend) is free horsepower when tuned for it.
In the BMW's we mess with, we run them on various blends (E40,E50,E85) and they make BIG power on "pump" gas.
edit to clarify: it can use E85 if tuned for it, but the truck isn't a flexfuel and will automatically adjust
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