First Oil Change & Tips/Tricks

[Protocol]

I had the exact same problem at 1500, even tried to put it on multiple inclines / declines thinking that was the problem. Ended up adding the 2 quarts back with Mobile 1, and brought to the dealer at about 4k. By searching the dealers in the area, I was able to find a bunch of oil service coupons. They confirmed over the phone that the coupon also applied to the Raptors ( thought they would charge extra for the addl quart). The deal was $39 for synthetic blend, and $59 for full synthetic ( both with the oem filter). I had the blend done, and just plan to have the service done at 5K intervals. At that price, it just isn't worth it to me to do it myself. Also dealer does their multipoint inspection and any warranty items at the same time.

Awww that sucks! I also tried to jack up the rear but it made no difference. I can only guess that either that part of the pan where to dipstick would read from is elevated or there is something blocking direct access to the pan. That would have alleviated at least 30 minutes of plate removal and cleanup.

Interesting design decision to block pan access like that though. Of course one peek at that oil filter location and orientation pretty much sums that all up.

 

[xxaarraa]

I was able to get all but about a quart out straight from the dipstick. I had to fiddle with the small hose and really get it jammed down in the dipstick and it worked.

High quality synthetic oils last well over 10-12k miles so If you use high quality synthetic and change regularly (I do every 5k) the last quart that's left in there to mix with brand new oil is never a problem. It'll get recycled.

 

[BurnOut]

I personally like to drain the oil and run 1 qt of new oil through the pan to get the residual oil 'flushed' out but that's just me. I assume a vacuum method leaves some like draining the oil... you'd probably be fine either way.

I do the same thing. It hurts a bit when using Royal Purple, but the extra peace of mind is worth it to me.

 

[jaz13]

I was thinking about this mity vac idea but sometimes thinking gets me in trouble. Anyway, I did my own 1st oil change and it went pretty well after reading this thread. I then went inside and drank a beer out of a glass. I drank almost all of the beer except the last little bit. I looked at the last little bit through the glass and there was a bunch of little floaters and back wash and a piece of hamburger from dinner the night before and even a piece of hair (not sure where that came from). I then drank that last little bit. My question is...is using this thing (mityvac) without draining the oil out of the plug similar to or worse than drinking that last bit of beer?

The filter takes out all of those little bits. Replacing the motor oil is more about the viscosity breaking down over time and through use.

Here is an interesting video about viscosity.

 

[Lasercat]

Used my Mityvac for the first time today. Despite my best efforts, I was only able to pull about 4.5 qts out, and it took a lot of fiddling. I think I'll just be taking it to the dealer in the future.

 

[hamster]

Well I read this thread and a few others.....glad I did as it helped out. But I also learned a few new things along the way. Given all the mess others had, put large piece of cardboard under the truck. Glad I did.

1. Removed front skid plate and the aluminum cover plate just to the rear of the skid plate. Only really need to take out the front skid plate, but I wanted to see all that was up under the plates….mostly curiosity.
   
2. Took out the drain plug. Pic 1. Used a bucket to catch the oil and controlled flow with the drain plug. No mess on that one since with the second plate out it gave more room to get to the yellow drain plug from the side. No tools needed for me to get plug out.
   
3. Used Ford Racing filter. Pics 2, 3, 4. Able to get two hands on the filter and came off without any tools.
   
4. There is a plastic pan that catches any oil spilled from the oil filter. It drains to the front and the rear of the frame. On the rear side it will drain through a hole in the alum cover plate. Pic 5 (front), 6 (rear). Red circles where they drain.
   
5. Here is where I made some spillage. After removing the filter, I was in no hurry to put the drain plug back in or install new filter. I put some paper towels in the plastic plan to catch any drips from the oil filter connection. All of a sudden noticed large puddle under the frame. The paper towels in the plastic catch pan were soaked. Probably got ¼ quart out just leaving filter off for about 30 minutes. So really needed two oil catch buckets/pans, or I could have put the drain plug back in before removing the filter and used the same bucket. Pic 7,8. Installed filter.

Cleaned up the mess, wiped the plastic pan out so it did not drip on driveway, installed drain plug, added Royal Purple 5W30 oil, buttoned all back up. Should be able to do it next time with no spills.

 

[Lasercat]

Used my Mityvac for the first time today. Despite my best efforts, I was only able to pull about 4.5 qts out, and it took a lot of fiddling. I think I'll just be taking it to the dealer in the future.

So the Mityvac worked well when I could get the tube actually into the oil, so I don't want to completely give up on it, and I had a thought...

What if I install the Fumoto drain valve with the long nipple and attach a tube from the nipple to the Mityvac? I'd then open the valve and suck the oil out from the bottom of the oil pan. Seems like that would work very well, at least in my head. Thoughts?

 

[sp2pilot]

^^
The fumoto valve won't work on our oil pans. The thread pitch is completely different.
AFAIK, Fumoto doesn't make a part to fit our oil pans.

 

[Lasercat]

Are you sure? The Fumoto website seems to disagree. Either way, I've already ordered the valve, so I guess I'll find out.

 

[SilverBolt]

Are you sure? The Fumoto website seems to disagree. Either way, I've already ordered the valve, so I guess I'll find out.

It's not going to work. The factory plug is a 1/4-Turn plug not a thread.