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JetDriver480
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Mine burns ZERO oil... a good eye on your oil status...
First Oil Change & Tips/Tricks
- Thread starter JetDriver480
- Start date
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I do not claim to be the expert, but I believe 6 quarts is the initial fill volume. For oil changes including new filter, it takes 5 quarts to refill. Apparently, some oil stays in the engine when you drain the oil? I can tell you for sure that 5 quarts refilled mine to the correct, full level.
Read you manual - 6 qts. Initial fill is 7qts. Mine is 6 to the correct fill mark. If you're leaving a quart of oil in you motor, you're doing something wrong (or not changing the filter)
CAPACITIES AND SPECIFICATIONS
Capacities
WARNING
The air conditioning refrigerant system contains refrigerant under high pressure.
Only qualified personnel should service the air conditioning refrigerant system.
Opening the air conditioning refrigerant system can cause personal injury.
Item Capacity
Engine oil (with oil filter) 6.0 qt (5.7 L)
Engine coolant 17.28 qt (16.35 L)
Brake fluid Between MIN/MAX on brake fluid reservoir
Front axle fluid 1.8 qt (1.7 L)
Rear axle fluid 2.7 qt (2.6 L)
14.1 qt (13.3 L) Automatic transmission fluid *
Transfer case fluid 1.5 qt (1.4 L)
Windshield washer fluid Fill as required
Fuel tank (super cab) 26.0 gal (98.4 L)
Fuel tank (crew cab) 36.0 gal (136.2 L)
A/C Refrigerant 1.5 lb (0.68 kg)
A/C Refrigerant Compressor Oil 3.4 fl oz (100.5 ml)
*Approximate dry fill capacity. Actual amount may vary during fluid changes.
You are correct, of course, and I had a brain fart when I wrote the post. I did, in fact, use 6 quarts.
I did remember seeing the initial fill was one quart more, but made a mistake about what I actually used. Now that I think of it, I bought a package that contained 6, one quart bottles. They were in the box nice and neatly packaged. Hard to do that with 5 bottles. It was definitely 6.
Sorry for any confusion, and thank you for pointing out my error!
Just returned from Raptor Assault, really cool. I had the opportunity to ask Instructors about oil consumption, they said it is common as engine is not completely seated and broken in. It should be broken in by 3000 to 5000 mile. They explained that new engines with turbos , oil will get dirty quickly (blow by the rings) and it will use some oil until rings seat. Made sense considering the amount of boost this engine has. Now it is time for a road trip to Texas , that ought to help.
Just wanted to add that when changing oil you do not have to remove the drain plug quickly. You can remove partially and slowly while pushing upward and really control the flow into catch pan. I didn't even get oil on my hand.
Just wanted to add that when changing oil you do not have to remove the drain plug quickly. You can remove partially and slowly while pushing upward and really control the flow into catch pan. I didn't even get oil on my hand.
Surely someone will come out with a YouTube Video but did my first oil change and figured I would share. I assume most of you are handy enough to figure it out but this still might save you a few minutes in finding the right size tools, etc.
Tools Needed:
10mm Socket/Wrench - Black Skid Plate for Oil Drain Plug
T-40 Torx Bit - Silver Skid Plate removal for Oil Filter.
I highly suggest a ratchet as the bolts need to turn a lot for removal and this will save you time.
Suggested Oil Type & Quantity:
5W-30
6 Quarts
Oil Filter
Motorcraft - F-500S
Fram - PH10575
STP - S10590
Mobile1 - M1-212
Project Time - 20 minutes largely due to skid plate removal and reinstallation.
Draining Oil:
1. Remove the black skid plate labeled 'Remove for Oil Change' using a 10mm socket or wrench. This is best accessed off the passenger side of the vehicle and can take a little looking to find. It's about 3"x8" or so has 3, 10mm bolts.
2. The drain plug is plastic, yellow and turns about 1/3 turn to the left to release. You do not need a tool to remove the oil drain plug. Be ready the oil comes out faster than most vehicles and due to the height of the truck it will bounce right out of your oil container and all over your floor if you don't plan ahead...ask me how I know:
3. Inspect & Reinstall the drain plug and skid plate.
Replacing Oil Filter:
1. Remove the 5, T-40 Torx Bolts from the silver skid plate at the front of the vehicle.
2. The oil filter is white and is a little ways up there. I had to use a band style wrench to get my filter loose. It was tight from the factory but could maybe be done by hand but it's a little hard to get the leverage up there. The oil will drain through a square hole that is cut out in the skid plate.
3. Install a new filter being sure to make sure the old gasket is still with the old filter and the new filter gasket is lubed with a little engine oil prior to reinstallation.
4. Reinstall the skid plate.
Adding Oil:
My engine took EXACTLY 6 Qts of oil and I suggest a large/long funnel as the location can be hard to get to due to vehicle height and the fact the filler is located behind the air intake assembly.
Check for leaks and reset your oil computer on your dash-board display under 'Engine Information'
Jet, thanks for this. Made mine go really smooth. I have the same oil waste container, so I just held it up against the skid plate and didn't have any mess!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quick update on Oil consumption. 2000 miles since oil change with Mobil 1.
Just returned from road trip ATL to DFW about 780 miles each way driven straight thru each way. No oil loss, still right on full mark.
Also , Adaptive cruise control is great. Don't know how I lived without it. Five gas stops worst MPG 16.7 , best 19.5 on cruise control set on 72 to 80 mph.
Just returned from road trip ATL to DFW about 780 miles each way driven straight thru each way. No oil loss, still right on full mark.
Also , Adaptive cruise control is great. Don't know how I lived without it. Five gas stops worst MPG 16.7 , best 19.5 on cruise control set on 72 to 80 mph.
Additional oil change tip: due to the angle of the oil filter as installed on the engine, it isn't really possible to pre-fill the new filter with fresh oil to any significant degree prior to installation.
The solution is to, after the old oil has been drained and old filter removed, install the new filter and clean oil, then hold the throttle pedal on the floor while simultaneously pressing the brake pedal and hitting the "engine start" button. This will cause the engine to spin over, but prevent it from starting. Pressing the "engine start" button a second time will stop the cranking. I typically do this three times at 5-10 seconds per before starting the truck for real.
Doing this will allow fresh oil to be picked up and pumped around the engine, while the engine its self is spinning very slowly under no significant load. You'll build oil pressure by doing this, and prevent the the crank, rod, and cam bearings (in addition to the turbos) from running dry.
The solution is to, after the old oil has been drained and old filter removed, install the new filter and clean oil, then hold the throttle pedal on the floor while simultaneously pressing the brake pedal and hitting the "engine start" button. This will cause the engine to spin over, but prevent it from starting. Pressing the "engine start" button a second time will stop the cranking. I typically do this three times at 5-10 seconds per before starting the truck for real.
Doing this will allow fresh oil to be picked up and pumped around the engine, while the engine its self is spinning very slowly under no significant load. You'll build oil pressure by doing this, and prevent the the crank, rod, and cam bearings (in addition to the turbos) from running dry.
brzon
Full Access Member
I spent a good deal of time this past Saturday cleaning up the dealership's mess that they made doing my "complimentary first oil change". Removed the middle skid plate to clean up the oil that had my been dripping onto my driveway. Also found that they left 1 of the 3 bolts holding the drain plug access door loose. Unreal. Does anyone give a crap about doing good work anymore?
DIY here on out. At least they used the right amount of oil for the change.
Brought them my own 5W-30 Mobil 1. Brought them 2 x 5 qt jugs in, got 4 qts in jug back with truck when I picked it up.
Observations - that plastic pan and screw look like trouble waiting to happen. Was surprised the pan is plastic (nylon).
DIY here on out. At least they used the right amount of oil for the change.
Brought them my own 5W-30 Mobil 1. Brought them 2 x 5 qt jugs in, got 4 qts in jug back with truck when I picked it up.
Observations - that plastic pan and screw look like trouble waiting to happen. Was surprised the pan is plastic (nylon).
WhatExit?
FRF Addict
Thanks for the post and info! Nicely done!
Would a fumoto valve work? I've been wanting to try one and this might the truck to do it on. Thoughts?
Fumoto® USA | Quick and Easy Engine Oil Drain Valves
They actually have a number of different valve options - here's one:
<EDIT: Posted the below Fumoto valve info before I read the rest of the posts which include several on this NOT workin. Not sure why Fumoto is saying they have multiple valve options but it's too bad it won't work. Off to Amazon to buy a Mightyvac. >]
Would a fumoto valve work? I've been wanting to try one and this might the truck to do it on. Thoughts?
Fumoto® USA | Quick and Easy Engine Oil Drain Valves
They actually have a number of different valve options - here's one:
<EDIT: Posted the below Fumoto valve info before I read the rest of the posts which include several on this NOT workin. Not sure why Fumoto is saying they have multiple valve options but it's too bad it won't work. Off to Amazon to buy a Mightyvac. >]
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