First Oil Change & Tips/Tricks

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Danner

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I decided to switch from Royal purple to Mobile 1. I used the extended performance 15 K full synthetic. They do make a synthetic that they call annual protection that is supposedly good for 20 K miles. I wonder if it really makes a difference if I change it every 5-10 K anyways.

https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/synthetic

I was almost as confused as the last time that I was at Lowes trying to figure out what light bulb to buy.

I called Mobil and spoke with an engineer about that oil. He said that its for normal driving conditions, with stock vehicles. I told him I drive a high performance car that has a turbo engine he said that the oil was not intended for that purpose. In other words its designed specifically for true average driving under very specific conditions such as no low temps, no high temps, no short trips etc etc.

Before any of these auto makers had "free" maintenance oil change intervals were maybe 5k at the longest. When BMW switched intervals zero changes happened to their engines. Suddenly a 3500 or whatever interval was moved to 10k without any changes to the engines or the oils/filters.

I have been driving Subaru STi's and Mitsubishi Lancer Evolutions since 2004. These cars are 3k interval cars and always have been. Subaru did lengthen the interval on the STi at some point but they have also had serious engine issues since they nerfed the engines in 2007 due to emissions.

I bought a 2012 Camry 2.5 brand new. It needed a new short block under warranty 52k miles and a new transmission (transmission was known issue)

The Camry was an appliance so we were strict with the 10k oil change interval. One winter I remember a lot of cold starts at -15 degrees. The tech said it was probably the oil change interval that killed the engine. The filters really to blame. If the oil is kept clean sure it can last a long time. The actual air filter on the Camry was a very cheap design and very thin, air filters have a big effect on oil and turbo life. this is why I do not ever recommend using a conical type performance filter especially the oil type. I have seen a lot of dirt inside intake manifolds from using after market air filters.

Oil and filters and air filters are pretty cheap insurance.
 

Frank N

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I ran out of free oil changes form the dealer so I changed the oil this weekend.
Not difficult, I didn't make a mess thanks to knowing what to expect from this thread, but that plastic plug and pan is stupid. After 34 years of changing oil, I much prefer steel. Someone find that engineer, I have some words for him.

One other comment, especially for those in the salt belt, my last truck had an access plate for the filter, it doesn't hurt to put a little anti-seize of the bolts before replacing the access panels. You can avoid turning a ten minute oil change into a 30 minute oil change where you are drilling out busted bolt heads ...ask me how I know.
 

RaptorTurboS

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This has been a very helpful thread. I ordered Amsoil oil and filter and will be doing the oil change at the end of the week.
I have a 2018 with the metal pan and metal drain plug.
Does anyone know the torque spec on that drain plug?
 

mfa81

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I called 2 different Ford dealers. One said 30 ft-lb, the other said 18 ft-lb.
WTF.

fumoto torque chart says 15 ft-lb for the ones compatible with the metal pan, so 18 ft-lb seems more like it, also 30 ft-lb seems crazy high torque for that drain plug!
 

0r30

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Just did the oil change myself and this post was helpful.

Removed oil plug and oil filter with hand. Aside from that I tried catching all oil as best as I could.

Thanks OP.

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