$179 is dealer cost for the battery........ thats one hell of a deal
Dead battery already?
- Thread starter J0shM1lls
- Start date
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I found it on quadratec.com for $179.99 plus tax with free shipping and I asked them to match but they did me one better.lol
correction..... its $172 dealer cost. you got a great deal on the battery. i am assuming you have to return your old one to them? unless they buy a bucket load they probably get them cheaper. i know that when i order them i dont get a price break
Yes, it was 175 and some change with the core. 187 without the core.
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J0shM1lls
Full Access Member
Your tempting me Iron, you really are! lol BUT, I did some investigative research on my battery, details to follow...
---------- Post added at 08:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:18 PM ----------
So I went down to my truck popped the hood and decided to think about this battery... First thing I did was take another peek into the indicator window after driving it to work and home again, still red. Popped the cover off the fill holes to see if the battery was properly filled and all cells were equal and looked good. I hooked up a voltmeter and it read 12.3v, which according to the table below is somewhere around 70% charged at open circuit voltage.
I started the truck and it hovered at 13.6~13.7ish... That seems kind of low to me but I could be wrong, I'm used to seeing 14+volts. I did some reading and found that some alternators will vary their output voltage based on the battery core temperature as to prevent catastrophic failure of the battery, so it MAY be that. I decided to take it a step further and see what the parasitic draw is when the truck is off... I set up my multimeter in between the positive terminal and the lead, set it to 20 amp mode and this is what i found with the truck closed, all lights off, LiveWire Plugged in but "Shut Down".
3.1mA - Everything off.
I reached in the window and powered up the LiveWire and the Multimeter read 5.2mA. A 2.1mA gain, just sitting at the main screen not in any guage mode.
So then I decided to go to the guage menu and see what the difference was. 26.3mA with the truck off! 23.2mA over OFF.
I let the livewire go into it's so called "sleep mode" and it stayed at the 28.3mA... I don't know how significant this is or how fast it could kill a battery, but to me thats about 8 1/2 times the stock parasitic draw...
All in all I think it's a combination of things, battery not in ideal health, leaving the lights on for 5+ minutes with the engine off, and the draw from the LiveWire... Long story short, until I know that amount of draw isn't an issue, the livewire will either be "shut down" or unplugged from the ODBII port while not in use. It sucks that I have to do this but I cant risk getting stranded until I figure out the issue 100%... I might just go the Ironman route and pickup a new Optima
Given all the info provided what are your guys' thoughts?
---------- Post added at 08:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:18 PM ----------
So I went down to my truck popped the hood and decided to think about this battery... First thing I did was take another peek into the indicator window after driving it to work and home again, still red. Popped the cover off the fill holes to see if the battery was properly filled and all cells were equal and looked good. I hooked up a voltmeter and it read 12.3v, which according to the table below is somewhere around 70% charged at open circuit voltage.
I started the truck and it hovered at 13.6~13.7ish... That seems kind of low to me but I could be wrong, I'm used to seeing 14+volts. I did some reading and found that some alternators will vary their output voltage based on the battery core temperature as to prevent catastrophic failure of the battery, so it MAY be that. I decided to take it a step further and see what the parasitic draw is when the truck is off... I set up my multimeter in between the positive terminal and the lead, set it to 20 amp mode and this is what i found with the truck closed, all lights off, LiveWire Plugged in but "Shut Down".
3.1mA - Everything off.
I reached in the window and powered up the LiveWire and the Multimeter read 5.2mA. A 2.1mA gain, just sitting at the main screen not in any guage mode.
So then I decided to go to the guage menu and see what the difference was. 26.3mA with the truck off! 23.2mA over OFF.
I let the livewire go into it's so called "sleep mode" and it stayed at the 28.3mA... I don't know how significant this is or how fast it could kill a battery, but to me thats about 8 1/2 times the stock parasitic draw...
All in all I think it's a combination of things, battery not in ideal health, leaving the lights on for 5+ minutes with the engine off, and the draw from the LiveWire... Long story short, until I know that amount of draw isn't an issue, the livewire will either be "shut down" or unplugged from the ODBII port while not in use. It sucks that I have to do this but I cant risk getting stranded until I figure out the issue 100%... I might just go the Ironman route and pickup a new Optima
Given all the info provided what are your guys' thoughts?
a lot of older vehicles had a significant amount more than that. i remeber a car manufacturer (cant remember which one) tell me thatit was normal to see a 60-70 miliamp draw.
what you are drawing right now wouldnt kill your battery unless it sat for 10 or more days. even then it would probably still start up.
what you are drawing right now wouldnt kill your battery unless it sat for 10 or more days. even then it would probably still start up.
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J0shM1lls
Full Access Member
So that leads me to believe even more that it's just a crap battery...
if the indicator is still red, then yes it is a bad battery
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J0shM1lls
Full Access Member
Yeah it is... I'll be visitng the dealer saturday morning...
ask them for money toward a yellow top. say you lready bought one and have them give you a check for the amount of the oem battery........... doubt it will work, but might be worth a try
