Black widow suspension set up

[Jackemuphigh21]

.... normal Raptor owners!

Greg isn't this an oxymoron?

 

[Squatting Dog]

Greg isn't this an oxymoron?

You know what I mean... There are a lot of Raptor owners that upgraded shocks are over kill..

-Greg

 

[BigJ]

LOL was gonna ask...

OK so here's another question: does the ICON internal bump stop stop travel before the OEM bump stop is hit?

 

[Jackemuphigh21]

You know what I mean... There are a lot of Raptor owners that upgraded shocks are over kill..

-Greg

I know. I'm just givin you hell.

 

[Squatting Dog]

LOL was gonna ask...

OK so here's another question: does the ICON internal bump stop stop travel before the OEM bump stop is hit?

On the front shocks it is last couple inches of travel.

On the rear shocks there are NO internal bump stops, per ICON.

The reason ICON runs stock bump stops and no frame support. Is because the increased piston size and valving and the ICON shock is able to dissipate the kinetic energy..

-Greg

 

[BigJ]

Hmm.

So in the rear there is no hydraulic bind built in (aka an "internal bump stop")

But they feel the frame is not in danger because the valving is such that the shock will slow the rear enough as to not allow enough energy to transfer from the incoming axel to the OEM bump to bend the frame.

What happens when the fluid heats up after a little while? What happens as the fluid starts to age? Both are going to happen, even with a 3" piston, right?

In theory, it will boil/aerate, reducing its ability to stop the rear before hitting the OEM stop... Feels like I'm not understanding something here.

If you'd rather this conversation carry over to a new thread Greg say the word and I'll split one off. Don't mean to derail.

 

[Squatting Dog]

Hmm.

So in the rear there is no hydraulic bind built in (aka an "internal bump stop")

But they feel the frame is not in danger because the valving is such that the shock will slow the rear enough as to not allow enough energy to transfer from the incoming axel to the OEM bump to bend the frame.

What happens when the fluid heats up after a little while? What happens as the fluid starts to age? Both are going to happen, even with a 3" piston, right?

In theory, it will boil/aerate, reducing its ability to stop the rear before hitting the OEM stop... Feels like I'm not understanding something here.

If you'd rather this conversation carry over to a new thread Greg say the word and I'll split one off. Don't mean to derail.

This is fine here BigJ..

I know both Bluesvt, rsv 2 or 3, and icon vehicle dynamics raptors all completed the land rush 1000. ICON Raptor is only running stock bump stop and had no issues with overheating or shock fade. Plus they have 25,000 miles (i think) with stock springs and bump stop with out frame damage.

This is my opinion but the full 3" piston is correctly sized for the Raptors rear axle kinetic energy. Unlike the stock shocks smaller piston size and smaller fluid capacity.



-Greg

 

[BlackMamba]

What is the distance between the OEM strike plate and the OEM rubber bump? Maybe ICON can tell us. Understand that their truck still has OEM leafs, bump, etc. It would seem that we just need to replicate that. Or am I oversimplifying? I know BlueSVT lowered the charge in his bumps (fox 2.0s with outlaw kit I believe). Maybe Greg's at 25psi is the right setting to shorten up the stroke on the bumps to replicate the OEM setup? Maybe we can keep a little more pressure?

No bumps seems like a bad idea. The OEM bumps are underwhelming and poorly positioned, etc., but it would not surprise me if the ICON truck has hit them more than once and possibly benefited from their presence.

 

[BigJ]

Thanks Greg. That's one hell of a track record, for sure.

 

[MotuMute]

Hmm.

So in the rear there is no hydraulic bind built in (aka an "internal bump stop")

But they feel the frame is not in danger because the valving is such that the shock will slow the rear enough as to not allow enough energy to transfer from the incoming axel to the OEM bump to bend the frame.

What happens when the fluid heats up after a little while? What happens as the fluid starts to age? Both are going to happen, even with a 3" piston, right?

In theory, it will boil/aerate, reducing its ability to stop the rear before hitting the OEM stop...

Has anyone had an issue with Stage 3 plus King shocks either? If the rear ICONs don't have an internal bump stop, then maybe there is a way to optimize their settings to make them compatible with the bump stop kits. Maybe the reinforced 13's don't need it? For pre-13 heavy hitters extra insurance sounds nice. When are ya going to know that fluid age or heat buildup is causing too much fade - putting the frame in danger?