stage 4 & toyo mt ride quality question/help

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Mjolnir

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okay, been driving all day in the truck, and want to get some advice.

the front bypasses have 30 stops for compression/rebound.

I have toyo MT's (35's)

They came from rpg set as follows:

left compression 19 clicks in
right compression 17 clicks in
left rebound 13 clicks in
right rebound 11 clicks in

air pressure from RNR on the toyo's was at about 36 but my low pressure light was on.

I filled them to 41 to get the lights to go off, didn't change anything else, right became super "jouncy" from 20 to 40 mph, calmed down over 50

adjusted all the front bypass to 0 clicks in rebound and compression, left psi at 41, right still was jouncy, to the point where it was miserable on city streets

I just now dropped the pressure back to 36, which means my light will be on (recommendations on this? live with it, pull the fuse?)

haven't driven since then, but am looking for some help

BTW - big warning here - the cool new anodized thumb adjusters - WEAR GLOVES - by the time I figured out my thumb and finger were getting hot both had blistered up something fierce - i'm now typing with 3 fingers on my right hand.
 

pat'sRAPTOR

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I have my tires at 38 and I just deal with the light and make sure I check te pressure often. The ride does get a little but rougher with more air in the tires. When I had 37's I had to keep 34 in them cause anything more that about 38 they were pretty bouncy on the street. I doubt it would be the shocks causing this but you neever know. The lower the psi is in your tires the smoother the rides going to be because it soaks up more road bumps and doesn't transfer that force through the shock and into the cab like you were experiencing before.
 

RPG

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Peter,

Call me tomorrow so we can go over what we need to set you at. I want to get a better understanding of what the term jouncy means. One thing that stands out to me is that your tubes seem to be all over the place for some reason and when you set them to zero you actually made things worse by closing off all the tubes. Before you just start turning for the sake of turning, I want to have a better understanding of what your butt dyno is feeling.

I'll pm you my cell so we can talk tomorrow and get you squared away.

Thanks

Jarrett
 

Madcowranch

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I don't remember what Corey set mine at but it's perfect. I have the Toyo's also Peter- set to 38, just enough to keep the light off.

I do notice my ride is a little stiffer the first few minutes until the shocks get warmed up though.
 

SwampKing

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Ducati, did you ship your truck to RPG for the dual setup?!
Was wondering bc I thought Corey fine tunes these setups or does he prefer breaking in the shocks prior to more in-depth tuning?

With My toyo 37's currently, I'm running 30psi around town. I hadn't felt the need to air down offroad yet running 30psi. I'm trying to find a psi that the beast can perform offroad and onroad without the need to air down/up constantly. Although I do hear 20 psi for the toyo is a better approach, might have to give that a shot soon to see what it's worth.

Method NV/37's
Boatec front and Rear fenders
Rigid dually's in fogs
Heads retrofitted by me!
FOR NOW!
 
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RPG

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Ducatisps has the dual shock setup. A few notes about the setup when its new. The bearings will be very tight and need some miles on them before they wear in a bit. His new setup has zero rubber bushings left so the drive is gonna feel different at first but will soften up once everything loosens up. His shocks have been valved accordingly and now its just a matter of getting his new spring to settle in a bit, and playing with the tubes.
 

SwampKing

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Totally understandable Corey. Thanks for the explanation.


Method NV/37's
Boatec front and Rear fenders
Rigid dually's in fogs
Heads retrofitted by me!
FOR NOW!
 

hootch

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how do i make the front axel's pull like the back?

:893karatesmiley-thu with a push button true 4x4 locking dif? the truck could grip the rocks and mud a lot better,!!!

---------- Post added at 12:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:53 PM ----------

chip, that suppose to increase my HP on demand, I don't want to go to extreams couse I don't want to break something or everything, any ideas on this ?? I want to increase the HP because im going to a stage 2 lift offroad package, bigger tires and a 6 inch lift,
 
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Mjolnir

Mjolnir

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Ducatisps has the dual shock setup. A few notes about the setup when its new. The bearings will be very tight and need some miles on them before they wear in a bit. His new setup has zero rubber bushings left so the drive is gonna feel different at first but will soften up once everything loosens up. His shocks have been valved accordingly and now its just a matter of getting his new spring to settle in a bit, and playing with the tubes.



Let me be clear about a couple of things:

1. RPG is a kick ass company, and I couldn't be happier with Jarrett and crew.
2. I like to tinker, I used to race AMA bikes, so first thing for me is to set everything to zero and work up (Jarrett informed me that I should set everything fully closed and work down, which I'm doing)
3. My rear leafs are completely flat (this is probably 1/2 my fault as I put 400 pounds in the bed after I had already done a stage 3 with standards) I'm getting them re-arched, then possible moving to HD if that doesn't solve the issue.
4. I have about an extra 150 pounds hanging off the front end of the truck, which is ******** with things a bit. Jarrett and I talked about preload and i'm going to make some adjustments

I didn't expect this to bolt on and change my life (well maybe a bit), I knew there would be tinkering, and I am using these threads for informative discussion, it shouldn't be taken as i'm unhappy or trying to start something. RNR and RPG have both been fantastic in the whole process, and I'm getting schooled along the way which I love.

I fully expect this truck to be dialed in by the time Raptoberfest comes along.


jarret - if you're reading this thanks for the call - above and beyond...
 
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