Truck shut off while driving and popped DTC's

[SCAR911]

I’ll give you $500.00 to take it off your hands.

Sure can! Tax is 60000$ though.

 

[smurfslayer]

Sure can! Tax is 60000$ though.

Only the sovereign can levy taxes. Which country, state, county, city or township are you?
Still in the for the 500.00 though.

 

[NickW]

This just keeps getting better. Finally had a chance to follow the trouble-shooting from the ford manual yesterday for the C1B15 DTC (Sensor Supply voltage: circuit short to battery or open) Driver Door Module. This had me disconnect one of the connectors from the DDM and disconnect the driver side mirror and check several pins for short to ground, open wiring, and continuity between the connectors. After going through the process, everything checked good and the manual suggested that the side mirror motor should be replaced. Hmm, ok.

So I reassembled everything and noticed that the lock switch and unlock switch on my driver door is not working. Memory seat still works. I took the door panel back off and double-checked that all of my connecters were installed. They were. Switch still doesn't work. I unplugged the DDM connector and side mirror connector that I had been testing and reconnected them. Now the "unlock" button is working, but the "lock" button is not working. Now when I turn on accessory power to the truck I'm getting errors that blind spot monitoring and the BLIS system is not operable. WTF. So now I have more problems than when I started and I'm at a loss.

Pulled DTC's and now I have another code to add to the other 10: B118C (Left Blind Spot Warning Indicator: circuit short to battery - Driver door module). The pins in the connector appear fine, so now I'm questioning if the side mirror motor is suddenly causing more problems, the DDM is bad, or possibly some wiring.

Edit: My driver window is only rolling up or down a few inches at a time, then stops and I have to press the button again. And my driver mirror won’t move with the buttons. This is all new after messing with the connectors.

Any help is appreciated as I'm questioning if I need to just drop it off at the dealer and bend over, which I'd really prefer not to do. I also don't have a secondary vehicle to drive so that's another problem.

 

[raptorsub]

A long shot, but I've seen online of newer Fords with led tail lights. Have issues when water gets in there. I guess it can mess with other systems in the truck. Maybe gives those a look and make sure they are dry and sealed up.

 

[raptorsub]

Check this video out on it.

 

[sc85fiero]

With all of your old and new issues being drivers door functions, I think its more likely the wiring between the cab and the door is starting break giving you intermittent open circuits. Thats usually where the problem is, where the wires bend going into the door.

The problem with intermittent circuit issues is that you may test them and they test fine, but a tug, pull, bend, jostle, etc. can cause them to become open. Otherwise it is also somewhat common for terminals to become loose and have poor pin fitment. Depending on what you were using to test the female sides of the connectors, you could have further damaged those terminals.

My money is on either of those, an intermittent open at the wiring going in to the door, or pin fit at the door connectors C510.

-Joe

 

[NickW]

A long shot, but I've seen online of newer Fords with led tail lights. Have issues when water gets in there. I guess it can mess with other systems in the truck. Maybe gives those a look and make sure they are dry and sealed up.

Def worth checking, thanks for mentioning and sharing the vid

With all of your old and new issues being drivers door functions, I think its more likely the wiring between the cab and the door is starting break giving you intermittent open circuits. Thats usually where the problem is, where the wires bend going into the door.

The problem with intermittent circuit issues is that you may test them and they test fine, but a tug, pull, bend, jostle, etc. can cause them to become open. Otherwise it is also somewhat common for terminals to become loose and have poor pin fitment. Depending on what you were using to test the female sides of the connectors, you could have further damaged those terminals.

My money is on either of those, an intermittent open at the wiring going in to the door, or pin fit at the door connectors C510.

-Joe

I thought about the harness between the door and cab, I'll give that a closer look. I also questioned the pins/harnesses because these new issues started immediately after messing with them while testing for opens/shorts at the connectors. I used a multimeter test kit so I should *not have damaged any of the pins, but it's certainly possible and logic would say it's the most recent area that I was messing with immediately prior to these new issues. Thanks for the response

 

[raptorsub]

Hey OP. Any update on your situation?

 

[NickW]

Over this past weekend I replaced the entire driver door harness and that seems to have solved my issues in that area (window, door lock, blind spot monitoring, and cross-traffic alert).

I also replaced the brake system components that I listed in my original post (except the sensor) and noticed one improvement. Previously, when I would go to start the truck I would press the brake pedal and hit the start button, just like normal. Except a few months ago after I installed SS brake lines and bled my system (which included a fluid leak at my master cylinder b/c of a leaking bleeder), I noticed a change: when I would press the brake pedal to start the truck, the pedal was very firm and would not move much without added pressure. Since changing the brake parts the past weekend, the pedal now feels "normal" when I go to start the truck. Gives me hope that I've corrected those issues.

Plan to pull codes tonight or tomorrow to confirm.

 

[raptorsub]

Interesting, I hope you get the bugs figured out soon!