shocking shock discussion

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RLTW

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With the performance? No. The 3.0s are a nice improvement over stock. I don't care what brand you pick. With the appearance of the rears? Yes.

Why'd you end up bluing them in the first place, to cover up the shiny bits?
 

DylanICON

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Didn't blu anything... If there is any bluing its all from excessive heat.

I would like to see some pictures of what you are talking about. If there is something wrong I will fix it.

It is typical on any shock (stock or aftermarket) to see a zone of about 1" on the shaft that looks different whether it is chrome or nitro steel. This can be bluing from localized friction heat but is mostly burnishing from the high frequency low amplitude movement at ride height. The Nitro Steel shaft material is also a different color to begin with and the normal bronze color will burnish differently.
http://www.commercialfluidpower.com/PDFFiles/NitrosteelCFP2007Brochure.pdf
As for overall heat discoloration on the body: If the stickers aren't burned off then there is now way the CAD plating on the body will be compromised. Only the small mounting spacers are zinc plated
On the dyno I can melt and blow up ANY shock and have run these shocks well over 350F and burnt the stickers off with no other issues.
In the field I run temp strips to show the highest temp reached. The strips start at 190F.
You can get temp strips here:
McMaster-Carr
I have never gotten the front shocks to register on the temp strips.
The only time I was able to get the rears to register is after many miles and repeated 80mph passes on the massive whoop road in Mexico. Max temp was 230F. Ford Raptor Icon Testing - San Felipe, Mexico - YouTube
Although TRR is rough on the trucks as a whole the overall energy input into the shocks is relatively low. The course is just too slow and inconsistent to really make the shocks even break a sweat. Energy input that is converted to heat is the summation of force times displacement and must be input at high enough rate in a given time period and faster than dissipation to accumulate heat soak. That means you have to hit a lot of tall bumps very hard and spaced close together and not stop to take pictures every 20 min.
 
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