PSA....change out your factory lug nuts before it is too late 31k miles

[Winchester30]

Look better than oem:

 

[Flash1034]

Why didn’t they make them so they would fit the stock tire wrench?

 

[costnsg]

I've been thinking the same, wanting to change out to some black lugs in place of the chrome ones. But then I ran across this thread last year: https://www.fordraptorforum.com/threads/broken-lug-nut-damn-it.73166/page-1.

His lugs were apparently wayyy over-torqued: "my torque wrench at 250 ft-lbs (maximum value for my wrench) and none of the nuts would turn to loosen. IOW, they required MUCH greater than 250 fl-lbs to remove (breaker bar and section of pipe and still had to get on it)." Didn't know the studs could even handle that but seems they can...

Anyone else had trouble with their Gorilla lugs breaking? Besides hand-tightening with a quality torque wrench (and not to 250+lb-ft), what's the best way to prevent this (I do use anti-seize myself on the threads when I rotate my tires, but sometimes I get lazy and have my buddy Les [as in Les Schwab] do it). I really do not want to ever have to drill out a tire stud.

The link in quote above is for a thread started by me and describes an experience you do not want, trust me. The particular Gorilla lug nuts I was using were all locking type and they have a reduced cross section in the middle, and that's were they sheared. They were over torqued for sure. I went back with the hex version with the factory bulge and no issues so far. I also went with the larger hex option to get as much metal (cross sectional area) in the nut as I could. And yes, that means the factory lug wrench doesn't fit. I have a socket in my truck that works well, though.

On this bulging nut issue many of us have experienced, I think the issue is all about the two piece design. The outside shiny portion is softer and will expand with use until the size is too large for the stock lug wrench and even slip on the inner portion when it gets sufficiently swollen. I don't think is has anything to do with salt or corrosion. It certainly didn't in my case. Also nothing to do with mileage. If you don't rotate your tires the factory lugs will last a long time. Its removing and tightening that causes the nuts to swell, and an impact wrench probably accelerates the failure. My opinion is that Mcgard are good and Gorilla are good if you use the hex design. Both are one piece nuts and not subject to the sort of failure you have with the factory two piece design (which is a lousy design). If you have the original nuts and Ford hasn't changed the design since my 2017 model, then it's only a matter how many wheel removals before you have the problem with the factory nuts. You really don't want to find out about this with a flat out in the boonies. Save yourself some headache and replace the two piece nuts if you have them.

 

[EmbDriver]

lomg story short...change em out with whatever company and call it a day

 

[Oldfart]

Oh boy, I didn't know our lug nuts are the 2 piece design. Definitely swapping them out now! Any idea if the McGard's work with aftermarket wheels? I'm running the stock bead locks for now but it would be nice if I changed the rims out down the road not needing a new set of lug nuts.

Also looking at Summit racing site apparently McGard has 2 that work.

64074 - Shorter and 22mm socket
64022 - Longer and 21mm socket (stock wrench size)

To the best of my knowledge, most aftermarket wheels will take a different lug than OEM. If I remember correctly OEM is called the "bulge" design, and aftermarket is "conical".

 

[Flash1034]

The link in quote above is for a thread started by me and describes an experience you do not want, trust me. The particular Gorilla lug nuts I was using were all locking type and they have a reduced cross section in the middle, and that's were they sheared. They were over torqued for sure. I went back with the hex version with the factory bulge and no issues so far. I also went with the larger hex option to get as much metal (cross sectional area) in the nut as I could. And yes, that means the factory lug wrench doesn't fit. I have a socket in my truck that works well, though.

On this bulging nut issue many of us have experienced, I think the issue is all about the two piece design. The outside shiny portion is softer and will expand with use until the size is too large for the stock lug wrench and even slip on the inner portion when it gets sufficiently swollen. I don't think is has anything to do with salt or corrosion. It certainly didn't in my case. Also nothing to do with mileage. If you don't rotate your tires the factory lugs will last a long time. Its removing and tightening that causes the nuts to swell, and an impact wrench probably accelerates the failure. My opinion is that Mcgard are good and Gorilla are good if you use the hex design. Both are one piece nuts and not subject to the sort of failure you have with the factory two piece design (which is a lousy design). If you have the original nuts and Ford hasn't changed the design since my 2017 model, then it's only a matter how many wheel removals before you have the problem with the factory nuts. You really don't want to find out about this with a flat out in the boonies. Save yourself some headache and replace the two piece nuts if you have them.

Please post a picture of this Hex design...

 

[costnsg]

Please post a picture of this Hex design...

Here's a link to the Gorilla website. I'm using the 7/8" Black, Factory bulge lug nuts. These fit factory wheels and probably do not fit aftermarket wheels, so think before you order. Also, I find a 22mm socket fits the 7/8" hex nut even better than a 7/8" socket. The 21mm are probably fine and will allow you to use the factory lug wrench, I was just going conservative.

https://www.gorilla-auto.com/lug-nuts-page-09

 

[EricM]

The thing I've seen is a lot of people use the wrong socket. They will use a socket that is one size off, and it works fine to remove them with a bit of slop- but it damages the exterior cover on the 2 piece lug, especially when air tools are used. Next time around, the correct size is used and the lug nuts get stuck in the socket. I would wager that 99% of the issues with the OE lugs are due to this.

I've owned Fords for 30+ years and I rotate my tires myself. I've never needed to replace a OE Ford lug nut due to swelling.

 

[costnsg]

Here is a pic of the locking design that I do not recommend. If they they are overtorqued, they can shear where the cross sectional area is reduced in the middle, then you have a project to drill out the lug bolt (times 9 in my case). Trust me that operation is not for the faint of heart.

 

[EricM]

Here is a pic of the locking design that I do not recommend. If they they are overtorqued, they can shear where the cross sectional area is reduced in the middle, then you have a project to drill out the lug bolt (times 9 in my case). Trust me that operation is not for the faint of heart.

View attachment 148806

One of the reason I bough the aftermarket wheels that I did. They can use the stock lugs. Those skinny "tuner lugs" are a joke.