RPG Tie Rods
As you probably know having read my build, my primary focus has been on safety, protection of my investment and performance. One of the things that can strand you out in the middle of no where is a busted Tie Rod. Your Tie Rod is what connects your steering to the part of the wheel known as the “Knuckle” (which is another “Weak Link”, but that is a different story, for another day.) The stock Tie rod connects to a ball joint with a thin shaft the size of a thick kids pencil. In my case one of them wore out in short time.
Now I could have had it replaced for free under warranty, but I really have no affinity for taking any of my vehicles to the Dealer, and besides Ford would probably try to convince me that it was my fault, who needs it. Besides, back to point one, Safety and Protection! And if its broke it certainly isn’t going to perform.
Removing the Old:
Well its been a couple weeks since we did this, and like many who might be reading this, I had never done before, so if I got any of this wrong and you know what is correct, please don’t be shy and pm me or post correction so I can fix.
Use small screwdriver to break the bond of the existing boot.
Use the screwdriver to separate the old clamp, it kind of just pops apart and you will not re-use.
Sliding the boot back exposes the small ball joint
Installing the New:
There is a left and right as shown by Corey. Corey designed these and is rightfully very proud of the design. RPG starts with “Hex” stock and then mills it round. This leaves the ends where you need to put a wrench on to adjust strong and flat, while others weaken theirs by creating flat spots in round stock. Notice the lettering is also adjusted properly to look good when installed.
There is adjustment room on both ends of the Tie Rod, you may want to hang out when you get it aligned as this is not common. Also make sure the guy uses a wrench or smooth lock Jaws to adjust.
Before installing the “Clevis” end use “Red” thread lock generously.
Use a 14MM Hex to connect the Clevis to the Steering box and torque to 80Lbs
Trim the old boot as shown,
Corey uses one of his favorite tools, the torch, by using the indirect heat to heat and expand the trimmed edge of the boot, then slip on to Clevis end of the tie rod to cool to the new size.
I was lucky that this one was not damaged, very common for the OEM boot to get caught during full wheel lock turns and get torn. My other side was torn and we re-used anyway, installed with the torn end down so an debris has a chance to fall out…
Measure the old Tie Rod from center Pin so alignment can be close
Adjust the new Tie Rod to the same length as the old one.
This shows the orientation of the new Pin to the Knuckle
Use the Gold nut and washer to set the pin
I did end up painting the rusted part of the knuckle… anyway when tight the pin gets sucked down into the knuckle. Remove the Gold nut and replace with the Silver Lock nut, tighten to 100Lbs
Tighten top nut to 80 Lbs
Other end to Clevis, tighten to 100Lbs
