Full Race's "Gen 2.5" Raptor build

[RaceUV]

Ouch that sounds terrible for it all to go at the same time. But glad to see your wife is on board with everything. I just ask for forgiveness instead of permission. Haha
I have been building mine up for awhile now and my RMB Stage 2 with Headgames heads ported heads that I had in was never happy. Finally it shit the bed so I put a OEM long block in. Now my truck is running right, finally! Thanks to @GooseTuned We are datalogging 93 right now and then can swap over to full E85 and get that dialed in.
Hopefully I never have to do a transmission. Fingers crossed.

That’s great! If you do have to do a transmission, I HIGHLY recommend Suncoast. So far, I have had some of the best customer service I have ever experienced!

 

[91Eunos]

Glad the information was helpful! I am about to be doing an entire drivetrain in mine. Bought ALL the goodies from Geoff, building a transmission with Suncoast, and installing a brand new long block from Ford. Everything decided to fail at the same time so me and the wife went full ham on this thing. Lol

Are we twins? LoL

 

[RaceUV]

Are we twins? LoL

That’s a very real possibility

 

[mashtastic]

 

[full-race geoff]

Big thanks to Jeff at SVC, he came through with the pallet of raptor R parts I needed and shipped out yesterday



Also tossed in a gen 3 rear bumper to replace my haggard one



Taking the wife and kids on a quick vacay to Costa Rica this week. Be back at it soon enough. Have a great weekend everyone

 

[416wgt]

Hey man,

You do not HAVE to machine the key way into the crank. I called ATI and they told me if you are installing it without machining the crank, all you have to do is place a small spot of RTV to the opening to prevent an oil leak. After you plug the hole with RTV install the crank bolt and you’re good to go.

See my earlier post for part numbers on the belts. I would also highly recommend replacing the water pump and what not if your truck has high miles like mine did.

THIS IS IMPORTANT

You NEED the correct install tool for the Ecoboost balancer. Below is the one I just ordered that should work for the 3.5. I haven’t used it yet but I will soon and report back.

https://a.co/d/ellR4HA

I hope this helps!

Thanks for the information. I didn’t think it was necessary but wanted to ask.

 

[ayoustin]

2/ there isn't much benefit to the "HO" moniker so Ford abandoned it with the Generation 3 3.5L engine... all 3.5L ecoboost generation 3 are the same spec. The part # for a Gen 3 complete engine is: NL3Z-6006-A -- tasca has it for ~$3700 (+1500 core).

Back when I was doing development work on Gen 3 D35s at Ford there was initially 3 versions; Base, HO, Hybrid. I do recall them axing HO shortly before the Gen 3 went into production but don't remember them ever outing the Hybrid variant. Might be worth looking through part numbers for differences.

I've been waiting for someone to attempt swapping a gen 3 frame under a gen 2 body. Really appreciate you sharing all of details behind it. Now I just need someone to see what it takes to swap over the 2kw inverter hahaha.

Also I really like the turbo coolant lines, one of those buggers leaking is the only reason my gen 2 has gone in for warranty work so I'll definitely be grabbing a set sometime!

3. Do you know of any place that sells a deck brace by itself for the open deck 3.5 block? All I can see online are companies that sell entire blocks or short locks. It would be nice to be able to just purchase the deck brace and have a machine shop of your choice install it.

CSS offers them and installs them. Their prices are pretty reasonable too. https://cylindersupportsystem.com/

Block guards become more important the larger the bore and bore spacing get. The larger the bore spacing is the further apart the cylinder head fasteners get, which means the center point between fasteners sees the lowest clamping load. Filling in the open deck area reduces block deformation at areas close to the fasteners and allows for more even clamp load across the deck surface.

That's all just a fancy way of saying, you only need it if you're losing head gaskets. The 3.5 does have a pretty large bore and bore spacing so it's not a bad idea if you're shooting for big power (800+).

Interesting note on the oil pump front. I used my Forscan to data log oil pressure. At 114K miles my Gen 2's oil pressure will regularly bounce between 15 and 25psi....I was less than enthused. I pretty much determined that unless you are leaning into the throttle pretty hard my engine is seeing 15-20psi 98% of the time I am driving. As of now my ride is 100% stock and I noticed that the stock tune file seems to be set up to shut the oil pressure relief valve at a certain TPS percentage. Whenever I hit that limit the oil pressure will instantly shoot up to 60-80psi. Is this what you guys have seen with the factory tune file? Do we know if we can shut the oil pressure relief solenoid off in the tune with HP tuners/COBB/EZ Lynk?

The stock calibration desired oil pressure numbers are most heavily influenced by load. You can get pressure to spike by tapping the pedal which hikes the system into high pressure mode preemptively because it's expecting to see a large increase in load. Oil pressure is not what keeps metal parts from touching, its the oil wedge between the metal parts, pressure is just an indicator of flow/replenishment rate of the wedge. When cylinder pressure/load goes up the oil is forced out of the bearing cavity at a faster rate because there is more force acting on it; thus needing a higher replenishment rate to ensure there is enough oil in the cavity to withstand the higher force.

Unfortunately stuff like this is a necessary evil for manufacturers to continue selling vehicles. Investing tens of millions of dollars in engine tech to make emissions better saves hundreds of millions of dollars in fines.

Full Race only focuses on turbocharger related innovation. I agree the motor mounts could definitely be improved, and hoping i can stay OEM with the Raptor R mounts. Aftermarket motor mounts tend to vibrate and rattle harshly, trying not to build a race truck (yet)

My small business makes aftermarket motor mounts (amongst other parts) for Hondas and Evos, I've never thought too much about making Raptor parts but this is something we're well equipped to tackle and maybe we'll explore it in the future

 

[Zeusmotorworks]

My small business makes aftermarket motor mounts (amongst other parts) for Hondas and Evos, I've never thought too much about making Raptor parts but this is something we're well equipped to tackle and maybe we'll explore it in the future

...don't forget the front diff.