G's Raptor

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Bed Cage - Part 3

Anchoring it all down
Found some really cool recessed clamps from Mac Custom Tie Downs. Each unit is rated for 1000 Lbs. Macs Custom Tie Downs - Professional grade tie-down systems for car, truck, motorcycle, boat, or airplane.

The actual tie down ring can be quickly disconnected when I remove the cage.
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Plan on ordering 8 individual units to secure all items with a vertical pull. Plus a Custom “Y” Heavy duty Ratchet strap for Tire.

Will likely lose the right front portion of Cage as it really won’t do anything once everything is secured down.
 
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Cargo Management

I am fast forwarding in the build to present day, since these items are related. Please realize there is at least a month and several intense off road testing, thrashing and breaking in between.

Review: I built a rather unconventional bed cage from ABS plastic to hold cargo in place left to right, front to back. What was needed was a way to anchor everything down to the bed itself. My design goals are to keep all cargo secure under a F-1 Bak-Flip, with two 37" spare tires, racing jack, Gas, Water, Shovel, Extinguisher, CO2, other various emergency gear.

It is important to have the load pulled perpendicular to the mount. Since my bed cage is not attached to the bed it was necessary to have multiple tie down points to secure the contents and the rack itself. After surfing the forums, off road magazines et al I came across a company that made specialty tie down systems: Macs Custom Tie Downs, the owner owns a 6.2 White Raptor so there was a nice fit.

I worked with Jami who helped me develop some custom strapping systems. I opted for 11 individual anchor points. These accept their single stud tie down rings.
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With all the gear in the truck I marked the optimal locations with blue tape on the top of the Bed Rug. Then I located the recessed Channels and adjusted tape to accommodate this reality. This was the first location compromise. The second compromise(s) came when I was checking under the truck for clearance. Turns out there are a lot to miss between the stock bracing and my RPG frame support. So once again some of the locations needed to change. Measure twice and drill once, required putting the 37” spare back in the truck Bed a few times to make sure all would fit.

Here is picture after slicing thru cover to mark location(s) on the bed itself.

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Installing the anchor points is pretty easy, drill, clean openings – I used my dremel, applied generous piece of double sided tape (to backing plate) making sure to clear bolt opening, squarely position backing plate, then complete from inside bed. I used Red Locktight generously and torqued down.

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I also added some heavy duty rings to the strongest portion of the box that holds the racing jack and cooler, added a bracket for extinguisher and used an off the shelf ratchet lock down. Also located and locked the shovel down.

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CO2 tank (now a smaller tank of CO2 - not the huge Nitrogen tank I was carrying) is held back against the rack by Mac Cam strap that is also securing gas can and bed rack itself down. It has a second strap going over the top and straight down to the bed.

The tire is held down with a custom “Y” Ratchet Strap.

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Observations:
It would have been a lot easier if I had gone with the rail system for the majority of my anchor points rather than individual. This way would have provided more flexibility in location points as the rail could be attached around the braces leaving any point along its length to tie into. For the side positions, the individual points would work great. The single stud tie downs being sewn into the straps make for great operation but difficult to put in or remove in and around the 100Lb tire. I overcame this by trimming the bed rug to open up the access, however I may have been better off using independent (not sewn into strap) locking snap hooks they make. For areas more accessible a simple slice and small cross in the center of the stud location allows for access without trimming.
 
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Bak Flip, Bak-Box repairs

While I had everything out I also did some other needed repairs. The bak Flip P.O.S. Rail Clamps were each removed one at a time and red Locktight added. I learned that using large Bar Clamps to hold the clamp square when removing or tightening the clamps to avoid the tendency for them to twist off. I was able to get 100Lbs or so of torque slightly deforming the aluminum clamp body.

The Bac-Box was put on the bench and inspected. I noticed a fatigue tear in the side of the aluminum frame. I added some thin aluminum “L” brackets to double the thickness. And fabricated inside braces from unused equipment stand metal legs. The L brackets were JB Welded and clamped overnight. Surface was protected by tape and glue area sanded prior to application of Glue. The inside clamps riveted on the outsides and used self taping hex screws on the inside into the aluminum framework. I also plan on strapping the box down to the bed to eliminate any up or down movement, and have an unused Mac-Tie Down point directly under it. I don’t think the Bac-Box will be giving me any more trouble.

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Lowrance GPS and HDS-5 with LGC 4000 Baja Antenna

There are lots of GPS Units on the market, but one brand seems to dominate. Why fight it. I just went with what others before me have done. Did get the External mount antenna and from an installation perspective that proved to be the most challenging, Physically. The Custom mount we made for the head was challenging Mentally.

Even though I have the Stock OEM Nav unit, it is worthless when you are off-road. Ironic right?

Anyway, if you are going out in groups, you need this model GPS – so you can load in the Trail maps via smart card. And you need a VHF Radio. Since I was going out the next Saturday, those two items kind of got rushed and I simply asked Corey at RPG to just set me up.
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First challenge was where to place the head unit. Was hoping it would fit near the driver’s “A” Pillar, but it is too big. Another vendor makes a bracket sits in the center tray, that basically puts the bottom even with the dash with solid angle brackets that greatly obscures the view out the front.
Corey suggested building a custom bracket to fit on the little shelf above the Nav. We found some thick Plexigalss in our surplus goodies that already had a neat little bend in it that Noah cut down to size.

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While Noah was fabricating the plastic shelf, Corey and I installed the RPG Tie-Rods that I will write up later. The small bend positions the head unit lower while still providing access to the three buttons in the dash directly below.
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Noah did a fantastic job on the shelf, he also made small rubber mounts that fit into the square holes surrounding the two shelf screws. The rubber sticks up about 3/32” above the hard plastic.
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The Gps Head was mounted to the Acrylic shelf and then screwed into the stock shelf “Clips”. Seemed rigid enough.
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That is as far as we got that day on the GPS, finished the Tie-Rods. Driving home I noticed the GPS vibrating a lot just driving on city streets so I knew it wasn’t going to cut it on the trail, it needed additional stabilization. So after dinner I go into work shop, open up drawer of cast off and extra brackets looking for ideas. I found a stout little piece of metal, used for sink drains. Removed the top tray and center speaker assembly. Noticed a convenient Frame Mounting point right in the middle. Spent the next two hours fabricating that bracket to fit around several bends and the speaker. Cut small hole in bottom lip of dash.

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Another Failure: Bracket did no good at all, telemetry was all wrong.
Driving up the next morning to Irvine to RPG to complete the installation, I got the idea to make some cables and tie into the screws holding down that center tray. I needed to get some electrical parts at Home Depot anyway so picked up 3 feet of Bike Cable and two packets of Ferrell(s) for about $3.00. Created small loop and screwed it down then looped other end thru opening in bracket where the head mounts. Nice and tight now with proper telemetry, except the cable interfered with the rotation enabling lock knob. Another Failure, CRAP

I’ll jump ahead to the next day, back at home where the solution was to fabricate a fastener with a hook. It was made it out of some interlocking chain links.
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Melted small holes in the rubber mat that fits in the tray so only top of hook is exposed and keep the anti reflective properties of the mat in place. Other end was designed to fit between the knob and the bracket. To install cables, simply lift up on plexiglass mount and slip other end over the small hook. When pressure removed the cables are nice and tight.
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Sucker does not move or vibrate and the visibility is not obscured in any way.
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The other big benefit to our design is that it places the screen and keypad for the unit much closer to both driver and passenger. Having the screen closer is like having a bigger screen! Think Flat Screen TV, the further away you are, the bigger the screen you need. Plus much easier to zoom in and out and make other inputs into the nav while driving.
 
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GPS External Antennae

Went that Saturday to RPG.
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We evaluated several places for the antenna. Ideally it should be placed in the middle of the roof. We removed center light in headliner and determined it would not work there and there were other reasons why may not have been a good idea to place near front, so the back is where she went.
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we needed to remove the back seat. First time for both of us. In my former automotive background I removed back seats all the time in all kinds of vehicles, now 26 years later, there have been some changes.
We struggled with everything, the nuts were all “Tapped” so every turn of the wrench is like the beginning when its hard. By the time I was done with the next to last one, Corey comes out with an air ratchet that was small enough to get in there. At least putting it back was easy.
Bolts out, simply just lift up and out, Right? - Wrong!!! It is stuck. Turns out there are hidden latches on both sides.
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By pulling up on the little button, the lower locking latch opens. The button is on the left side of both brackets, so it is on the inside of the bracket on the side behind the driver. DSC02100.jpg
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Once we had torqued the seat up some the latch kind of seizes up. Corey managed to power them down and out the bitch came.
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Rest was uneventful, located position, set template drilled holes, routed cords. We temporarily routed the mag mount VHF antenna at the same time thru rear window, likely we will replace with permanent mount.
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We wired into Aux 4, saving the higher amperage switches for lights. And connected thru hole in dash I already had made near mount.
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VHF Radio

If you plan on going out with a group of other Raptors or 4 WD enthusiasts, having a VHF radio is basically a requirement. There is usually limited or no cell phone coverage. You can find radios for sale at a deep discount on Ebay but the challenge is getting one that has the channels you need in your area. Most are not easy to change yourself and you will need a dealer to do it. From my research it was best to buy direct from a local dealer. Once again I turned to the forum for advise, and after gathering a lot of info from a variety of sources I choose the ICOM F5020 Chase package that includes the 50W Radio already set up for the 15 most popular channels by PCI who is the leader in Southern California. I purchased thru RPG. Corey tried to talk me into a 110W unit but since I am not planning on running the Baja 1000 I couldn’t see spending 3 times more dough, plus more gear to stow. The 110 watt units do have a separate head from the power unit so it does open up some more mounting choices.

My unit came with magnetic mount antenna, but I am considering going for the permanent mount so I don’t have a wire running thru my back window. I can simply remove the long portion when not in use. The permanent one has better db gain, meaning better range. I may change my mind after this weekend’s run.

Installation
You name it, somebody has probably already done it. Inside Center Console, between the seats, in the dash above the Nav, the deep side pockets etc. I chose to permanently mount mine to the side of the console in the passenger area.
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I cut down the bracket so it mounted flush with the side. Mic Clip was placed right above.
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We were going to wire the radio to Aux 4 along with the GPS, but after checking the amperage of both decided to purchase an unpgraded in-line fuse and wire directly to the main battery terminals. This saves the remaining 3 switches for future lighting upgrades. Corey did a first class job on the electrical, I could take pictures of it but you would be hard pressed to see what was done. (OK, I was doing the GPS and radio mounting fabrication while he did his electrical magic, how else do you think I am able to get so much stuff done in so little time?)

I haven’t used it yet so I will report on it and the GPS upon return from trials this weekend.
Go out and get your Raptor dirty this weekend! She wants you too.
 
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]VHF External Antennae – Permanent Mount

Fast Forward again to this last Weekend

VHF External Antennae – Permanent Mount
Decided to go for it, PCI / RPG exchanged the base mount.

Got up real early Saturday morning.

Required pulling the Back seat, not a problem since I had already done before and knew the right tools needed. Craftsman top of the line air ratchet, 90 PSI clean air, 18MM deep impact socket. Zoom Zoom, nothing like having the right tools.

Only small hole for top of coax connector to peak thru.
Used Blue tape to temp hold while I completed part on top.
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Used every inch of the 17’ of cable, followed the same path as the GPS down the side behind the air bag stuff, in runner under sill, up to under dash across at the end of the carpet and back into the center console.
I modified the console to allow both power and antennae to come from behind leaving access to the little map pocket.
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Thanks Mike, Been wondering if anyone is looking here. have over 15000 views on the forum that shall not be mentioned...

I am almost up to date posting up stuff, maybe its coming to fast? just trying to get caught up.
 

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I'm fixing to commit on the antenna. Rumor has it, everything can be accessed from the 3rd light and you don't have to drop the headliner.
 
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