B&O add aftermarket sub

[BIGW0RM]

Your list is correct.

You will get the remote signal from the LC2i.

For the green sub connector, contact Digi-Key [email protected]

Send them a couple pictures of the green plug and two them you want the mate. They will find it. You are still going to need pins and a Molex crimper.

If you don’t want to go through the trouble, use a 4 position plug with pigtails. Cut and solder the plug inline with the factory harness. You will maintain the oem plug and allow your aftermarket amp to plug and play. When you want to remove the factory sub, you just unplug “your” plug and plug in your aftermarket amp/LC2i, etc

E Support 4 Pin Way Car Auto Waterproof Electrical Connector Plug Socket Kit with Wire AWG Gauge Marine Pack of 5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0144CFM7A/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

Lastly, the factory sub is dual voice coil hence why you need a 4 position plug. Make sure you maintain the proper wire pairs and pay attention so you don’t throw your aftermarket or b&o sub out of phase. You will get very little output and could damage your equipment.

Thank you very much. I really do appreciate you taking the time to explain this to me. It was most helpful. That's exactly my thought process on how I was going to attack this. The dual plug idea is what I was going to do. And yes sir, I noticed the DVC lines. Works out perfectly for both L and R input channels for the LC2i.

I used the LC2i in my BMW M3 and the auto sense didnt work for me. I never found out if it was the LC2i or my BMW with funky stereo electronics.

Does the LC2i auto sense work on ford?

 

[BIGW0RM]

Meh. The kicker hideaway is no better than the stock sub! LMAO.

It’s literally the same sound. It’s deeper but equally low volume.

It’s going back and I’ll just get a 10” truck box, use my own xd600:1 and be done.


For those with the bg system. The kicker hideaway is exactly the same output as stock.

Don’t do it.

 

[BIGW0RM]

I give up.

The kicker hideeaway wasn’t much of an improvement.

I then got the pioneer 8” dual 2ohm 600w to try in the stock enclosure and that clipped at 1/2-3/4 volume off the stock amp.

Nothing sounds right. I’ve put subs in every car I’ve owned without issue.

I buy my first Ford and can’t even add a sub that actually sounds right.

I give up.

Thank you to all that offered help. But I give up.

Ford stereos suck ass. I’ll deal with BMW 40v voltage spikes, 7.2ohm speakers and trickery needed to work over figuring this crap Ford stereo any day.

#angry

 

[dhmcfadin]

When you put a speaker in a box it wasn’t made for powered by an amp that it’s not designed to drive, of course you are going to have terrible results. I’m not sure what you were expecting.

 

[BIGW0RM]

When you put a speaker in a box it wasn’t made for powered by an amp that it’s not designed to drive, of course you are going to have terrible results. I’m not sure what you were expecting.

I simply put the dvc 2 ohm 8” pioneer woofer in the stock enclosure. Wired exactly how it was. While I wasn’t expecting it to be louder without an amp. I expected it to equal stock.

I didn’t even get to trying it with an amp yet. Something not right.

 

[dhmcfadin]

I simply put the dvc 2 ohm 8” pioneer woofer in the stock enclosure. Wired exactly how it was. While I wasn’t expecting it to be louder without an amp. I expected it to equal stock.

I didn’t even get to trying it with an amp yet. Something not right.

You put a 2 ohm speaker wired in parallel to an amp that cannot handle a 1 ohm load. Dual 2 ohm voice coils wired in parallel = 1 ohm final impedance. Of course it won’t sound right and of course you are clipping at half volume. The resistance is too low for the stock amp to handle.

And even when you do get the impedance correct, once again, the volume of the b&o enclosure is still unknown so for you to just stick a 8” sub in there and expect a quality sound is literally like shooting in the dark. The odds are stacked against you.

 

[BIGW0RM]

You put a 2 ohm speaker wired in parallel to an amp that cannot handle a 1 ohm load. Dual 2 ohm voice coils wired in parallel = 1 ohm final impedance. Of course it won’t sound right and of course you are clipping at half volume. The resistance is too low for the stock amp to handle.

And even when you do get the impedance correct, once again, the volume of the b&o enclosure is still unknown so for you to just stick a 8” sub in there and expect a quality sound is literally like shooting in the dark. The odds are stacked against you.

I was under the impression the factory amp was 1 ohm stable. If thats not the case I’ll try my own amp next. That will run 1 or 4ohm.

I was told the stock sub was 2ohm dvc so I assumed it was a direct match?

I guess I was wrong/misinformed???

 

[dhmcfadin]

You also need to take into consideration the enclosure you are putting the sub in and the sub for that matter.

Problem #1. I modeled the sub for you in the enclosure size that is recommended by pioneer. .5 cu ft. Just by looking the b&o enclosure sitting in my garage, that enclosure is well under .5 cu ft.

Problem #2. The frequency response of that sub is 65 hz. I have my subs crossover at 66 hz on a 24 dB slope. What that means is that at the frequency the pioneer sub makes its highest level of output (65 hz) is where I am telling my subs to drop out. 65 hz for a bass frequency is very high. A kick drum or bass guitar can easily hit 30 hz all day.

Problem #3. Take a look at the frequency response curve of your sub in its “ideal” enclosure volume of .5 cu ft. At 50hz, you are already at a -6 dB loss. That is a HUGE drop in output. At 35 hz, you are at a -12.4 dB loss. Consider all your low end bass gone. And that’s the recommended enclosure size assuming you are giving the sub adequate power.

Check out the second model. The green line represents this same sub in a box closer to what the b&o enclosure would be. I am estimating about .25 cu ft. At 50 hz, you are now hearing a -7.5 dB loss in output. At 35 hz you are now hearing a -14.5 dB loss in output. And these are best case scenarios.











At the end of the day, to get quality sound you have to use quality components and do a quality install. It’s just the truth.

 

[TXRaptor]

@dhmcfadin

Just out of curiosity, are you an audio engineer?

 

[dhmcfadin]

@dhmcfadin

Just out of curiosity, are you an audio engineer?

Haha, no sir. I work in finance. Audio is a hobby of mine!