Are there better options for pads and rotors then OEM?

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Short answer, no. Long answer is I drive to/from the track so I need a DOT approved tire. The NT-01’s are really an incredible tire. I’ve since discovered the Nankang AR-1’s which are also a great intermediate and I sold the 2019 Z06 for a 2021 ZL1 1LE which is also an easy 2:02 car. sold that a couple of months ago and I’m on the wait-list at Hendrick for a new Z06 but lots of folks in front of me. I may go find a real race car to run this season while I wait.
Well, you got the talent. Just need the slicks to improve braking. lol
 

CVP33

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Well, you got the talent. Just need the slicks to improve braking. lol
All kidding aside, once you have the right tires and brakes you fight a new enemy which is tire slippage. That’s one reason I run Apex racing rims. Rim knurling to stop this……mostly.
 

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Braaaaptor

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Wow, that was a lot of nonsense to read through. I both gained and lost brain cells. Thank you all.

I won a set of EBC Brakes at a rallycross raffle - I have no skin in the game for this recommendation. They sent me a set of extra duty (orange) pads and their dimpled & slotted rotors. While I have no empirical data to add to this discussion, these rotors and pads make a huge difference in braking performance. I take the truck to rallycross and have raced the truck both with the OEM pads/rotors and with the EBC pads/rotors (on OE KO2s w/Enkei wheels). I have received professional coaching and know how to threshold brake. I can absolutely say that the better rotors and pads make a significant difference in braking distance, feel, bite, and repeatability.

I found I could overwhelm the OEM brakes towards the end of a rallycross lap and constantly using 80-90% of the pedal travel to get them to bite both wastes time and gets tiring even over a 60-90 second lap. The EBCs do not suffer from this, the initial bite will buck the truck (OEM springs aka couch floppy mode) hard and provides OEM performance much sooner in the pedal - then you still have more to give. The best part is they don't fade and give you the same feeling time and time again.

A few downsides to note (aka every brake upgrade over OEM):
1) brake dust - no **** sherlock, they dust more. Who cares.
2) brake squeal - the initial break in was loud AF, now they still squeal when they're cold especially when you're only lightly braking. Solution - brake harder and get some heat into them.
3) the ACC is weird - the adaptive cruise was obviously tuned with OEM brakes. Now the truck really bucks suddenly when the ACC tries to intervene, it's caught me off guard a few times.

While not as extreme as Wilwoods or Alcons, for less than half the price (and not worrying about fitment issues) they perform really well. I'm sure a set of SS lines and fluid would also help. My $.02

 

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Reaper308

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Sooo after all that. Brakes GOOD, Crashing BAD! Got it!

FYI I stand with the earth is round group!
 

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Wow, that was a lot of nonsense to read through. I both gained and lost brain cells. Thank you all.

I won a set of EBC Brakes at a rallycross raffle - I have no skin in the game for this recommendation. They sent me a set of extra duty (orange) pads and their dimpled & slotted rotors. While I have no empirical data to add to this discussion, these rotors and pads make a huge difference in braking performance. I take the truck to rallycross and have raced the truck both with the OEM pads/rotors and with the EBC pads/rotors (on OE KO2s w/Enkei wheels). I have received professional coaching and know how to threshold brake. I can absolutely say that the better rotors and pads make a significant difference in braking distance, feel, bite, and repeatability.

I found I could overwhelm the OEM brakes towards the end of a rallycross lap and constantly using 80-90% of the pedal travel to get them to bite both wastes time and gets tiring even over a 60-90 second lap. The EBCs do not suffer from this, the initial bite will buck the truck (OEM springs aka couch floppy mode) hard and provides OEM performance much sooner in the pedal - then you still have more to give. The best part is they don't fade and give you the same feeling time and time again.

A few downsides to note (aka every brake upgrade over OEM):
1) brake dust - no **** sherlock, they dust more. Who cares.
2) brake squeal - the initial break in was loud AF, now they still squeal when they're cold especially when you're only lightly braking. Solution - brake harder and get some heat into them.
3) the ACC is weird - the adaptive cruise was obviously tuned with OEM brakes. Now the truck really bucks suddenly when the ACC tries to intervene, it's caught me off guard a few times.

While not as extreme as Wilwoods or Alcons, for less than half the price (and not worrying about fitment issues) they perform really well. I'm sure a set of SS lines and fluid would also help. My $.02

That’s a great write up and true performance from aftermarket brakes. I am going to try a set.
 

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Sooo after all that. Brakes GOOD, Crashing BAD! Got it!

FYI I stand with the earth is round group!
The moral of the story, there is nothing you can do with the brakes that increase tire traction but there are many things you can do the increase overall braking performance.
 

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I looked up the definition of threshold braking. Please note the word “tire”

Threshold braking or limit braking is a driving technique most commonly used in motor racing, but also practiced in road vehicles to slow a vehicle at the maximum rate using the brakes.[1] The technique involves the driver controlling the brake pedal (or lever) pressure to maximize the braking force developed by the tires. The optimal amount of braking force is developed at the point when the wheel just begins to slip.
 

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For you non believers,
Threshold braking is the maximum amount of brake pressure you can use before your tires lock up. Being able to sense where that limit is takes practice, as it varies from car to car. On newer cars with ABS, it's the point right before the system kicks in. Your goal is to be able to extract as much braking force as possible without locking up your wheels or activating it.
 
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goblues38

goblues38

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THANK YOU ALL for the comments and lively discussion. Right now I am leaning towards the

*******EBS Series 9 slotted rotors and the YELLOW Stuff pads. Looks to be $800 all in.

The Powerstop kit is a close second and about $250 cheaper, but something in my research is just telling me that set up is cutting some corners.

I considered just replacing stock for stock, but there is no fin in that.
 
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