What Next??

[TrewRaptor]

What 4.56’s or 4.88’s? Think he’s running 35” tires still.

This is the first time I've read any mention about regear , coming from a jeep background this was always a priority. Interested on hearing more about this too.

 

[titanjc]

just reading up on those AMS intake tubes, youtube video says +20hp, not bad for under 400 and not too hard of an install

Right, the install is actually pretty simple. The toughest thing is getting the angle on the new couplings lined up properly. Should be able to do it in about an hour. The other nice thing is that dyno charts show they move your peak HP down about 1000 rpm in the power band, so you’re making max HP much sooner than stock.

 

[Donovan]

With all these mods, are there any blown engines due to overboosting without internal hardening?

Does the GT have big internal work done? What is the max HP on this stock block...

 

[smurfslayer]

just reading up on those AMS intake tubes, youtube video says +20hp, not bad for under 400 and not too hard of an install

Right, the install is actually pretty simple. The toughest thing is getting the angle on the new couplings lined up properly. Should be able to do it in about an hour. The other nice thing is that dyno charts show they move your peak HP down about 1000 rpm in the power band, so you’re making max HP much sooner than stock.

Unless you’ve done major work somewhere else, I’m highly skeptical of 20hp.

as pointed out in post 1, the mods aren’t cheap with the Raptor tax and all, so rather than buying mods to keep up with the Joneses, ask yourself
- what does the truck do that I don’t like
- what does the truck do that I’d like to improve

as you settle on some finalists, ask yourself
- how will this change improve my driving experience?
- what are the potential downsides?

Modify smartly.

 

[K223]

Unless you’ve done major work somewhere else, I’m highly skeptical of 20hp.

as pointed out in post 1, the mods aren’t cheap with the Raptor tax and all, so rather than buying mods to keep up with the Joneses, ask yourself
- what does the truck do that I don’t like
- what does the truck do that I’d like to improve

as you settle on some finalists, ask yourself
- how will this change improve my driving experience?
- what are the potential downsides?

Modify smartly.

This makes sense. Bang for the buck are truly winners. I’ve modded vehicles for years and bought into all the little bolt on’s and gadget upgrades that claim 15HP increase or 35HP increases.

And to be honest very few of these upgrades were felt by the seat dyno. My wallet felt them more. High $$$ mods like cams, heads, nitrous or forced induction and tuning were real winners.

Most will say the 3.5 HO is built and designed pretty well with little restriction from the factory. Things like an upgraded IC or tune I know work well for adding power.

Personally I’d talk to a tuner like the ones we have here, who knows these trucks. They have actually dyno’ed the trucks enough with these parts and surely can tell you what’s worth it and what isn’t.

I lived the days of popping your hood and showing fancy intakes and piping to say you have it. But if it’s not adding some good power it’s mostly show and not so much go.

 

[SRPRACING]

These engines are load based. They are designed to make the same power on stock tune no matter what. The only way they gained the extra HP is if they mess with the calibration.

 

[FordTechOne]

I would recommend doing axle gears. Often overlooked but can give you a much harder off the line. I wish I did mine sooner. Going to def want them when it comes to me for bigger tires too.

Gen 2s already have very short 1st gear of 4.69:1, which is made possible due to the 10 speed. Combined with the 4.10 axles and 510lb/ft of torque with a broad curve, off the line acceleration isn’t lacking even with 37’s. The turbochargers need load to build boost; with shorter gears you will increase time-to-torque (boost) and risk redlining in first gear without ever building full boost, which results in slower acceleration. Also note that numerically higher (“shorter”) gear ratios create more drag, which lowers WHP and efficiency.

 

[John813]

This is the first time I've read any mention about regear , coming from a jeep background this was always a priority. Interested on hearing more about this too.

Note that the post you're responding to has a Gen 1/6R100 transmission(and 39" tires).
You don't read too much about regearing in the Gen 2 cause it's not as needed when even upgrading to 37" tires.
A regear was preferred in the Gen 1 when upsizing tires to a 37.
Not so much in the Gen 2

 

[PorterW1111]

Note that the post you're responding to has a Gen 1/6R100 transmission(and 39" tires).
You don't read too much about regearing in the Gen 2 cause it's not as needed when even upgrading to 37" tires.
A regear was preferred in the Gen 1 when upsizing tires to a 37.
Not so much in the Gen 2

Gen 2s already have very short 1st gear of 4.69:1, which is made possible due to the 10 speed. Combined with the 4.10 axles and 510lb/ft of torque with a broad curve, off the line acceleration isn’t lacking even with 37’s. The turbochargers need load to build boost; with shorter gears you will increase time-to-torque (boost) and risk redlining in first gear without ever building full boost, which results in slower acceleration. Also note that numerically higher (“shorter”) gear ratios create more drag, which lowers WHP and efficiency.

Didn’t see this was posted in the gen2 section. My bad, was just responding to the “Todays Post” section.

 

[K223]

Didn’t see this was posted in the gen2 section. My bad, was just responding to the “Todays Post” section.