What did u do to your raptor today?

[CoronaRaptor]

This had been bugging me for a few weeks now.











Looks brand new.



Super easy, 6x T25 Torx bolts, 2x 9mm bolts, a brillo pad and some flat black rattle can. Took 30 minutes, and that was with explaining what I was doing to a neighbor.

Yeah, that thing was ugly. Mine looks good still, they must of forgot to prime yours at the factory! Nice job!

 

[badm0t0rfinger]

Yeah, that thing was ugly. Mine looks good still, they must of forgot to prime yours at the factory! Nice job!

Perhaps. It only just started getting bad enough to bug me recently... could have used some self etching primer for the extra little bit, but I'm sure rattle can is good enough. I'm just glad the truck is holding up so well. I wonder if its just build quality, locations that I've lived while owning it or how **** I am about maintenance.

I get under the truck maybe 2 or 3 times a year and take a wire wheel to any surface rust then some more rattle can and fluid film.

 

[CoronaRaptor]

Perhaps. It only just started getting bad enough to bug me recently... could have used some self etching primer for the extra little bit, but I'm sure rattle can is good enough. I'm just glad the truck is holding up so well. I wonder if its just build quality, locations that I've lived while owning it or how **** I am about maintenance.

I get under the truck maybe 2 or 3 times a year and take a wire wheel to any surface rust then some more rattle can and fluid film.

You're doing everything right. I like a clean undercarriage, that's why they invented toilet paper!

 

[BenBB]

Upper blend door motor done, no more clicky clicky! So coulda been worse, it wasn't the bottom one, but the top one that controls passenger side hot/cold blend. Started through the glove box, can just see the little bastard at the red clip:

Got that screw out with an 8mm gearwrench, although the first few rounds you can't get the box end on it so have to use the open end. Few minor lacerations from sharp metal. I thought I might be able to get both screws out through here but no dice even with my skinny arms, the connector and the back screw was all I could do. Pulled the console back a few inches to get the radio screen out, once again thankful for @The Car Stereo Company 's Youtube how-to video, I only broke a fraction of the plastic tabs I would have without that walkthrough!! My '13 is slightly different as the center stack bezel has a 7mm screw at the top of each side. There that ****** is:

Zoomed in:

Yes, yes she's a filthy girl. Just the way I like 'em. Date code looks like it was factory original:

New one's 7 years newer, woot! And the shaft color is black on the new one, old one was white...

 

[BenBB]

All tore down, better than the whole dash and heater box:

Think I'll crack open the old one and see what's in there...

 

[BenBB]

Well there's yer problem right there:

Little white plastic part was sheared off from the drive gear, found it in that black position sensor. Odd that it would break off like that, all it does is rotate inside that sensor, very little resistance, the torque is all on the driven gear and blend door shaft...

 

[RC51TOFUMAN]

This had been bugging me for a few weeks now.











Looks brand new.



Super easy, 6x T25 Torx bolts, 2x 9mm bolts, a brillo pad and some flat black rattle can. Took 30 minutes, and that was with explaining what I was doing to a neighbor.

Mine is like that too
Thanks for the writeup

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

Well there's yer problem right there:
View attachment 163202
Little white plastic part was sheared off from the drive gear, found it in that black position sensor. Odd that it would break off like that, all it does is rotate inside that sensor, very little resistance, the torque is all on the driven gear and blend door shaft...

glue it back together and put it back in the truck. return the other one

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

sarcasm......

 

[BenBB]

Gorilla glue!!!! Yeah maybe not haha