Upgraded IWE

[Squatting Dog]

I read the entire thread and several others and I'm still not clear on why it fails. I understand how it is supposed to work, and I certainly can imagine how engaging gears under load it bound to create wear. I have also read the threads about questionable vacuum causing it to engage and disengage damaging it.

What specifically stresses it and causes failure?

What can I do to reduce the chances of this damage?

thanks...joe

Joe,
There are a couple of things you can do to help stop wear.

1) when you shift into or out of 4wheel drive be at a complete stop. allow 30 seconds or so before driving.

2) start off slowly after shifting to make sure the locking rings are disengaged/engaged.

3) after being parked for more than an hour, start the vehicle and allow the vacuum to build up and pulled the locking rings off the hubs. Vacuum leak down causes the hubs to lock when parked over night.

4) during cold weather the IWE react very slowly, and requires more time to allow locking rings to move.

With these tips you should get longer life out of the IWE locking rings.

-Greg (aka Squatting Dog)

 

[Wilson]

I think the IWE is a good concept it just need's to be revamped the raptor has bigger tires more hp the IWE need a stronger spring better gears and electric open close.
Custom Designed Motion Control Units | High Precision Inc.

 

[Squatting Dog]

Here is a conceptual picture of the locking ring....



-Greg (aka Squatting Dog)

 

[AZEngineer]

Joe,
There are a couple of things you can do to help stop wear.

1) when you shift into or out of 4wheel drive be at a complete stop. allow 30 seconds or so before driving.

2) start off slowly after shifting to make sure the locking rings are disengaged/engaged.

3) after being parked for more than an hour, start the vehicle and allow the vacuum to build up and pulled the locking rings off the hubs. Vacuum leak down causes the hubs to lock when parked over night.

4) during cold weather the IWE react very slowly, and requires more time to allow locking rings to move.

With these tips you should get longer life out of the IWE locking rings.

-Greg (aka Squatting Dog)

Perfect, thanks...joe

 

[Wilson]

Here is a conceptual picture of the locking ring....



-Greg (aka Squatting Dog)

I didn't realize there was a small one on both sides. A beveled gear you would think would be a lot better.

---------- Post added at 04:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:28 PM ----------

If the inside pice was beveled so when the beveled gear enters it hit all the same and not just the tip. Can you get what I'm getting at? anyone

 

[Squatting Dog]

On the hub assembly itself it has a gear on it and the axle has a gear on it. The IWE is solidly mounted to the spindle and the locking ring is always engaged to the axle gear. When you shift into 4wd the vacuum is released and the spring pushes the locking ring onto the spinning hub gear. Grinding and forcing it onto the hub gear bringing the axle and differential up to speed. Once the gears and locking ring are lined up and at matching speed it fully locks..


-Greg (aka Squatting Dog)

 

[Yukon Joe]

Sign me up for some test hubs. I'm game!

Yukon Joe
www.RUNRAPTORRUN.com

 

[Towerhog]

Wilson... I get what youre after with the beveled gear but it would take one hefty spring to keep it engaged and I dont think you could pull that much vacuum to keep it disengaged in 2wd.

 

[Wilson]

It would not be vacuum but electric clutch

 

[2004boss]

Maybe something hydraulic like the newer style throwout bearing/slave cylinder.

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