Towing- 760# tongue weight

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Winchester30

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Looking to purchase small toy hauler
(and WD hitch) with:
empty weight ~3800#
load capacity ~3800#
tongue weight 760#
Would this be pushing the practical limits of the towing abilities? Will I regret towing this?

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NE Raptor

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You may want something to help with sag (depending how bad she squats, she will squat) but you are within your limits. I wouldn't be afraid to tow that at all. WD hitches help immensely
 

DarthKickA55

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Not an expert at all but the tongue weight above seems like the max for the trailer; assuming you actually have a "toy" in the back/behind the axle you probably would not see that much tongue weight.
Even so, if you have a SCREW and a WD hitch you should not have a problem.

Do a search for weight distributing hitches on here and there are a few good thread with setups/specs and pics.

I tow a small TT at about 400# or a little more tongue weight about 4000lbs filled up without a WD hitch and don't notice it. Use the trailer control setting on the dash and setup the program for your trailer. It will have the BLISS after that for the trailer which is really helpful.

Going to get a WD setup just haven't found the time to get it to the dealer.
 
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Winchester30

Winchester30

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SCREW- would likely not come close to max weight with “toys” either.
Would likely haul a quad and a lot of gear, probably 2-2500#.
 

Michael Coburn

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Definitely get a WD hitch. But if you plan on towing a lot and keeping your truck you should also upgrade your springs to Dever HD’s. These give you a 500lb preload and makes a big difference with higher tongue weights. I tow a 23 ft wake boat and its made a massive difference. I also got some hydraulic bump stops.
 
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Winchester30

Winchester30

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Thanks for the tips, I recently borrowed a 4600# trailer for a long road trip.
I did not have the bars for the WD set up on the way out (thought it was light enough and didn’t need). I could not believe what a difference it made in the way home, but still had squat in the rear. I was thinking a heavier loaded toy hauler would be over doing it, maybe Deaver HD +3s are in my future as well.
 

pbtjrlmrt

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Thanks for the tips, I recently borrowed a 4600# trailer for a long road trip.
I did not have the bars for the WD set up on the way out (thought it was light enough and didn’t need). I could not believe what a difference it made in the way home, but still had squat in the rear. I was thinking a heavier loaded toy hauler would be over doing it, maybe Deaver HD +3s are in my future as well.

As others have mentioned you will need a WD hitch to be within spec for sure...assuming you are at max. Personally I tow an overland camper...Patriot X3 if your interested...it's rated at 3500 max so I'm at about 350-525lbs tongue weight using the 10-15% rule. I do carry recovery gear and some extras in the bed so sag was a concern. I called Deaver to get their advice and wound up with a custom set of springs. They built a set using the stock Raptor springs as a base then added two leafs. The cost wound up being cheaper than the +3 pack which they specifically said was not recommended for towing. The +3 pack is a progressive spring whereas the stock spring and the custom one they built for me is a 2 stage. I also added the RPG stage 2 bump stop kit. When all said and done when I drop the trailer at base camp I can still Raptor around while having improved towing capability. Best of both worlds...at least for me. In your situation you are towing a much larger load so not sure what Deaver would suggest but I'd call them if I were you and describe your use case and see what they say.
 
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Winchester30

Winchester30

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As others have mentioned you will need a WD hitch to be within spec for sure...assuming you are at max. Personally I tow an overland camper...Patriot X3 if your interested...it's rated at 3500 max so I'm at about 350-525lbs tongue weight using the 10-15% rule. I do carry recovery gear and some extras in the bed so sag was a concern. I called Deaver to get their advice and wound up with a custom set of springs. They built a set using the stock Raptor springs as a base then added two leafs. The cost wound up being cheaper than the +3 pack which they specifically said was not recommended for towing. The +3 pack is a progressive spring whereas the stock spring and the custom one they built for me is a 2 stage. I also added the RPG stage 2 bump stop kit. When all said and done when I drop the trailer at base camp I can still Raptor around while having improved towing capability. Best of both worlds...at least for me. In your situation you are towing a much larger load so not sure what Deaver would suggest but I'd call them if I were you and describe your use case and see what they say.

Thanks, I remember reading your original post on this. Was wondering if you were still happy with your setup.
 
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