yea id be willing to buy a slightly used (HAHA) pair of shocks for like half off
King mentioned a possible scenario like this, I haven't gotten details yet though.
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yea id be willing to buy a slightly used (HAHA) pair of shocks for like half off
Honestly I don't mean to beat the point up, and it seriously doesn't matter until we have a truck to consider, but this is where I think something is getting lost.Right on pirate. If the bumps are set at 0psi, then you would be asking the bump stop kit to do something it wasn't designed to do. Actually, not entirely true, the bump pad would do what it's designed to do: not deform. No good.
This would not accomplish the main goal of keeping the donor truck safe, isn't that the point? Sure, the shock performance won't be affected by an aftermarket bump, but that's a double edged sword.
Honestly I don't mean to beat the point up, and it seriously doesn't matter until we have a truck to consider, but this is where I think something is getting lost.
Mechanically speaking, haven't the Outlaw kit or the RPG kit been engineered to take the hit of an axle coming at full speed into an already fully compressed stop? Yeah its gonna hurt like hell, yeah the rear is gonna kick like a bucking bronco, but the kit will disperse the energy and resist damage. Wont it?
My point is that if we're stuck with no OEM bump stop + frame reinforcement (like the Stage 1 you mentioned) and instead have a stage 2 setup (to keep with the analogy) our choices become either keep the after market stop in place or remove it.
If we lose it, we run the risk of metal crashing into metal in spots not designed to take the punishment.
If we keep it, the question becomes at what pressure does it get set at? The general consensus so far has been that a fully functioning aftermarket stop will impede a fair shock test. So, the logical conclusion would be to take it out of the equation by either removing it (see above) or keeping it but setting it to zero psi. In the latter case, at the very least we'll have something hitting something else in a spot where its been designed to hit.
Does all that make sense? Its kind of a process of elimination / lesser of evils sort of choice we're making.
Now with all that said, pirate's idea really sounds maybe ideal. I'd want ICON's thoughts on it (since again they're the only player in town so far), but it seems we'd (1) get the best frame reinforcement approach currently available, (2) we'd get to keep the bump stops and let them work as designed and (3) we'd not interfere with how the shock performs within "stock travel" limits.
By the way, how much does an aftermarket bump stop solution increase travel back there? I never thought to ask...
Gotcha. I do not think reinstalling the OEM stop is a realistic option in this scenario.A lot of the ride characteristics and road feel (and one of the weaknesses of the platform) is due to the rigidity of the rear frame. The variation in bracketry between bump kits will affect (and improve)the street ride quality significantly. A weld on air bump kit at 0psi vs. a stock truck with a stock bump stop is nowhere near equal, street chatter will be better and bottom out will be worse with the air bump kit(at 0psi).
Position of bottom out is also a big factor. The bump zone of the shock is only the last 2" or so depending brand. If an air bump limits travel by even 3/4" compared to the factory stop there is a huge opportunity for energy dissipation that will not be realized. The additional width of the air bump will also affect bump position in an articulated bottom (most are) vs straight bottom and limit travel
The best situation IF the truck has an air bump kit is that the air bump be removed entirely (leave Brackets) and the factory elastomer bump reinstalled. AND that the bracketry between the vehicles be of the same construction