RIGHT FRONT BLAKE SCORIATED

[EricM]

Eric M, that was a great video and it explained it in a way I can comprehend, thanks for sending it!!!! However, one last question, is the following statement correct; the reason 4 H should not be use on pavement is because the rear differential is locked, which will not allow the wheels to spin at different speeds for turning, however if the truck is driven in a straight line, no harm, no foul? Again many many thanks!

Whether you are in 2wd or 4wd- having the rear axle locked will make turning on dry just that much harder as you are now eliminating the differential action in the rear axle. Don't lock the rear axle unless you are doing burnouts, driving in 100% loose material (mud snow gravel sand), or you are rock crawling at slow speeds.

4H can be used on dry roads if the Tcase has a clutch or differential in it to allow front and rear axles to turn at different rates in turns. 4WD Auto is just that- running in 4H with either a clutch or an actual differential in the Tcase allowing differential speeds between the front and rear axles.

Gen 1 trucks are the ones that should only be driven in a stright line if it's on a dry road. It's not the best thing to do on a Gen 2 or 3 truck for the ultimate longevity of the drivetrain, but they should be able to handle dry roads in 4WD Auto due to the Tcase allowing differential speeds between the front and rear axles.

 

[K9 EXPERT]

Before I start, remember that I do not know the difference between a hammer and a wrench. Having said that, I previously posted that when I changed the IWE valve it took care of the problem. About two days later, I discovered it did not take care of the intermittent noise and vibration. Yesterday I took the truck back to Les Schwab and the manager told me that he believed the vibration and noise that he did not experience, but that I described, emanated from the brake rotor. He changed out both front rotors and said if the noise returns he will refund my $350. It has been over 24 hours and approximately 70 miles of surface Street driving and I have not experience the noise and vibration. I attached pictures of the rotors Schwab replaced. The rotor with the hammer marks was on the right front wheel. Schwab told me he had to beat it off with a hammer to remove it. He said he believes it overheated and warped, which caused the noise and vibration. If the noise and vibration returns, I will make another post to notify such.

 

[K9 EXPERT]

The rotors did not take care of the problem and neither did a new IEW solenoid?

 

[Nex]

Did you swap tires front to rear? What PSI are you running? When was the last time they were balanced?

 

[blwn]

Did you replace the IWE check valve, solenoid or both? If both, check to make sure your vacuum lines are fully seated and test that they hold vacuum. I just went thru this though and ended up replacing the IWE itself to resolve

 

[K9 EXPERT]

Did you replace the IWE check valve, solenoid or both? If both, check to make sure your vacuum lines are fully seated and test that they hold vacuum. I just went thru this though and ended up replacing the IWE itself to resolve

I understand checking fully seated, but I do I check if they hold vacuum?

 

[nikhsub1]

You should leave the truck in 4A for a week or so. If there is no noise in 4A it is something with the vacuum to the IWE.

 

[K9 EXPERT]

Did you swap tires front to rear? What PSI are you running? When was the last time they were balanced?

Yes, tires rotated with rotor replacement

 

[K9 EXPERT]

Did you replace the IWE check valve, solenoid or both? If both, check to make sure your vacuum lines are fully seated and test that they hold vacuum. I just went thru this though and ended up replacing the IWE itself to resolve

I replaced both

 

[K9 EXPERT]

You should leave the truck in 4A for a week or so. If there is no noise in 4A it is something with the vacuum to the IWE.

Okay, I will only use 4 A for the next week….thanks!