Rebuilding a 6.2 Engine

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PD1744

PD1744

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sooooo...... you gonna sell me this motor? i got another project for you in return.

Sounds good! But seriously, I had recently seen that you and @MurderedOutSVT were down, and I hate it for you guys. If we could figure out how to make it make sense I would love to help you out, but honestly I can't make any guarantees on this thing. I'm just a dude trying to figure it out. I was gonna take it and have it sym tested when I get to that point just so I could have confidence in it. If this ever wound up in my truck I would also plan on re-using my oil pan and intake (don't trust the ones on this engine) and valve covers (one is cracked).

Send yours off for a rebuild, it probably only needs a crankshaft and a rebuild kit at this point.

Also ^^this^^. I don't know what your failure mode was, but also in this world parts availability is a genuine concern right now. Especially for these engines I'm finding out.

@BenBB I went to order the valve keeper tool and stumbled onto this. Might work also. I think I'm still gonna roll with the punch style, but I don't hate this one.
 

The Car Stereo Company

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Send yours off for a rebuild, it probably only needs a crankshaft and a rebuild kit at this point.

Send yours off for a rebuild, it probably only needs a crankshaft and a rebuild kit at this point.
i juat hate paying more for a rebuild than what a new long block costs. local shops here are $6-$7k for a rebuild, and are also several weeks/months to get to it. i paid $4200 for the new longblock and had a friend quote me $1300 to do the swap. so...... do i pay for a rebuild instead and wait a couple months or do i wait indefenitely for a motor but have the option to have it swapped without waiting? i personally want the new motor, but if i can find a good deal on someone who can rebuild, i would go for that
 

CoronaRaptor

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i juat hate paying more for a rebuild than what a new long block costs. local shops here are $6-$7k for a rebuild, and are also several weeks/months to get to it. i paid $4200 for the new longblock and had a friend quote me $1300 to do the swap. so...... do i pay for a rebuild instead and wait a couple months or do i wait indefenitely for a motor but have the option to have it swapped without waiting? i personally want the new motor, but if i can find a good deal on someone who can rebuild, i would go for that
Well, hopefully those scumbaggs come through with your engine, they are still advertising them as in stock and ready to ship even at check-out.
 

BenBB

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Well, hopefully those scumbaggs come through with your engine, they are still advertising them as in stock and ready to ship even at check-out.
Carid? @The Car Stereo Company looks like Autozone doesn't say out of stock...you probably already tried them (and all the Ford parts places online don't really say if they do actually have one or not, like these guys)...
 

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Carid? @The Car Stereo Company looks like Autozone doesn't say out of stock...you probably already tried them (and all the Ford parts places online don't really say if they do actually have one or not, like these guys)...
Sorry OP for kind of derailing your thread a bit, @BenBB the ford dealer wants another $4000 to ship one up here, lol. I doubt they have it in stock, but worth calling them @The Car Stereo Company
edit: at least autozone has FREE shipping at checkout.
 
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OP
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PD1744

PD1744

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i juat hate paying more for a rebuild than what a new long block costs. local shops here are $6-$7k for a rebuild, and are also several weeks/months to get to it. i paid $4200 for the new longblock and had a friend quote me $1300 to do the swap. so...... do i pay for a rebuild instead and wait a couple months or do i wait indefenitely for a motor but have the option to have it swapped without waiting? i personally want the new motor, but if i can find a good deal on someone who can rebuild, i would go for that

It’s a hell of a pickle man. I know the owner of this engine went through all of this too. In the end he got a used engine with lower mileage than this one from LKQ shipped to him quickly for $3500 I think and did the swap ourselves so he came out really good. There was one local to me on FB marketplace with under 100k that I watched forever and the price dropped to like $2400. Not sure if it ever sold or what they got for it though.

Well, hopefully those scumbaggs come through with your engine, they are still advertising them as in stock and ready to ship even at check-out.
Carid? @The Car Stereo Company looks like Autozone doesn't say out of stock...you probably already tried them (and all the Ford parts places online don't really say if they do actually have one or not, like these guys)...

I’ve learned ‘in stock’ don’t mean jack these days. Even sales guys telling me item is ‘in stock’ at their store but actually they were drop shipping from the manufacturer who did not have stock.

Sorry OP for kind of derailing your thread a bit, @BenBB the ford dealer wants another $4000 to ship one up here, lol. I doubt they have it in stock, but worth calling them @The Car Stereo Company
edit: at least autozone has FREE shipping at checkout.

No apologies necessary. I feel all this discussion is relevant but even if it wasn’t I don’t give a ****. I bullshitting too. Really wish they’d turn the language filter back off.

How much cash this costing

I covered it early on and as the progress started to slow I’ve been less diligent about tracking costs and every situation will be unique. But to answer your question expect around $2-3K to get something similar done. That does not include price of the engine. Hope that helps.
 

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Holy $hit 90° twice?! I would be sweating bullets that last round thinking one would break haha!
I invested in a good torque wrench that calculates the degrees VS the wonky-*** degree gauge that does not feel accurate.
I think the Coyote I built was 135 degrees on the rod when I did the bottom end bearings!!! thought for sure it was gonna snap a bolt off. 10k miles at 7200 rpm and has not chucked a rod yet..lol
 

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I invested in a good torque wrench that calculates the degrees VS the wonky-*** degree gauge that does not feel accurate.
I think the Coyote I built was 135 degrees on the rod when I did the bottom end bearings!!! thought for sure it was gonna snap a bolt off. 10k miles at 7200 rpm and has not chucked a rod yet..lol
Pic of torque wrench! I've seen one or two nice ones with digital readouts, very nice.
 
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