Rear Cantilever for spring over

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pirate air

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So, inevitably doesn't more droop travel really equal more up travel when it comes to whoops sections? I realize that traveling on a relatively flat grade will send the axle straight up on a kicker, using available up travel quickly, but if that energy is properly controlled and the rear end doesn't kick much like a 3.0 equipped rear suspension with bump stops, doesn't the droop travel at least contribute to rear end control over the long run?

Even with the suspension under extra control with 3.0s and bumps, you still eventually run out of travel when you roll over something taller than what your bump travel and tire side wall will soak up. The rear of the truck must go up or something bends. More droop travel doesn't fix this unless you change the ride height at the same time. The rear will always come up more than the front unsettling the chassis. It also doesn't help that you're usually on the throttle over rough stuff which shifts more weight to the back making the kick worse and even more unsettling as the tires loose and regain traction. The truck needs up travel plain and simple.

You're better off just hitting whoops with speed to stay on top of them then slowing down enough to let the tire follow the valley of the whoop with the extra droop.
 
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wanderfalk

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The purpose of this cantilevered mod. is to increase travel

Just going off my experience and the different leaf springs I have used in the last year, the set that has worked the best is the one that raises the rear and increases up travel.


without cutting a hole in the bed of truck . So the system does this but the leaf springs have to be able accommodate the increased travel. What confuses me is the shock travel of the horizontal mount is limited by the leaf springs.

What leaf springs are you using in the picture and how much extra height did it add over stock? I was wondering if your set up with 3.0 shocks has resulted in increased travel on the compression phase of wheel travel. Sorry about the rudimentary nature of these questions. I find this thread interesting because of the commitment required to pull out a sawsall and start hacking on a frame.
Yes i do understand that this is over my head....for now
 
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khcdave

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2 things restrict travel-the spring itself, shackle and spring bushings that are rubber and the shock. Starting with the springs- any spring can be used as long as it has poly bushings, the long travel shackle will tear up the rubber bushing with all the movement. Deaver or National can be used plus 2 or plus 3- plus 3 is ideal since u loose a 1/2 in due to the shackle being longer and these springs will performer the best off road. The shackle gives the ablility to gain down travel (keep tires on the ground)- Now the cantilever---- the ratio of the lever turns the 12 travel shock into 16+ inches of travel, the pivot point to the axle link is longer than the pivot point to the shock mount on the lever- The shock is mounted horizontally so the the lever can work properly. Hope this helps explain it a little.

BTW- The ride hight makes no difference. You still get min 16in of travel. If your ride hieght is low you will have less up and more down travel and vise versa. Now the travel will be limited by the bump stop and the limiting straps- not the shock or the springs. Also---Aftermarket bump kits are a must with this set up.

---------- Post added at 09:04 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:02 PM ----------

the truck in the picture is stock hieght in the rear- those are deaver +3 springs
 

BIRDMAN

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So basically you are limited to the travel of a leaf spring setup regardless of ride height? What if you raised the rear 2" over stock would you then gain 2" of up travel and lose some droop travel based on the limitations of the leaf springs? You could still have 16" of travel total, but with 2" more up travel with 2" less droop travel, right? With a maxed out front 3.0 that would just about sit level...
 

wanderfalk

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what he said

So basically you are limited to the travel of a leaf spring setup regardless of ride height? What if you raised the rear 2" over stock would you then gain 2" of up travel and lose some droop travel based on the limitations of the leaf springs? You could still have 16" of travel total, but with 2" more up travel with 2" less droop travel, right? With a maxed out front 3.0 that would just about sit level...

I have been on the forum only a couple of weeks . What surprises me is the weak point seems to be the rear not the front where all the weight is . What is the front to back weight ratio?

---------- Post added at 06:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:31 PM ----------

Seems to me the wheel can only travel up x amount at any given ride height. Up travel is the more important of the two . If stock up travel is 5 inches then the new system is still 5 inches up and 11 inches droop at stock height. If one raises the back 3 inches the travel is 8 up and 8 down. Is this wrong headed oversimplified logic.
 

BIRDMAN

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I have been on the forum only a couple of weeks . What surprises me is the weak point seems to be the rear not the front where all the weight is . What is the front to back weight ratio?

---------- Post added at 06:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:31 PM ----------

Seems to me the wheel can only travel up x amount at any given ride height. Up travel is the more important of the two . If stock up travel is 5 inches then the new system is still 5 inches up and 11 inches droop at stock height. If one raises the back 3 inches the travel is 8 up and 8 down. Is this wrong headed oversimplified logic.

No that's kind of what I was thinking. But you do gain up travel in the scenario you used as an example.
 
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khcdave

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So basically you are limited to the travel of a leaf spring setup regardless of ride height? What if you raised the rear 2" over stock would you then gain 2" of up travel and lose some droop travel based on the limitations of the leaf springs? You could still have 16" of travel total, but with 2" more up travel with 2" less droop travel, right? With a maxed out front 3.0 that would just about sit level...

exactly, but you wouldnt want to run the front at that hieght all the time. Its hard on the cvs and other parts. Mid/top perch is perfect imo- just as the icons are set out of the box.

The limiters with this set up are the bumps and straps- the spring/shackle set up actually has more droop left (more like 17 or 18 total travel) the straps keep the lever and shocks in a safe zone to avoid over extending the shock and putting the unsprung weight on the levers and shocks- if I was to add more travel it would be up and a frame notch would be needed. Thats going to the extreme and most wont want that. But I do LOL- That will be later

IMO the front also needs a little more travel with the rear having these capabilities. Thats my next project when this is finished- got some ideas rattling around in my head for weeks now but need to finish all the projects we have going first.
 

nohel

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Dave we need a CV delete kit for these trucks i like most raptor owners have only used 4wd a few times over the years.
 
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