Pinch weld - front fenders

[CoronaRaptor]

Does anyone have a link or a thread to a full detailed write up on how this is done? I would like to take it to a pro body shop so they have an idea of what needs to be done

Unless you have too much money to just f'n throw away, just beat the seam straight or you can take it to your "pro" bodyshop and they can gut the interior and then cut out the firewall, weld it all together and paint it. While you have the interior out, get a roll cage installed to do it right!!

 

[bakkbakk]

So even with new fenders, body work still needs to be done? Info Friday **** YEAH

 

[G & P Racing]

If you really want to avoid rubbing issues you can cut back a few inches and weld in a new plate and paint it all nice, as was suggested. This really is preferred as big impacts will flex the LCA back and you will make contact. Also a good idea to thicken and gusset the OEM LCA mounts, they tend to bend if you are really pushing hard in the rough stuff. Just my 2 cents.

 

[AbnMP13]

Here are some pics. Bending the lower part out makes it easier to bend the inner bracket. U need to beat it in pretty good. Sometimes u even need to readjust the doors ( lower hinge) after hammering it all in just a little. The way u see it fits nicely under the glassworks inner fender wells[/quote]



Only trim the front of the pinch weld?

 

[RaptorScrew]

thanx to @2014RubyRed






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Dakshun]

So the bottom 4 tabs:
I've my tabs all cut; I've got them hammered down flat but I am testing my fitmet and I am still rubbing at a steep flex.

Can I continue to cut more relief and continue to hammer in more recess in the area of the bottom 4 tabs here?
Maybe it's a dumb question but I don't want to start hammering in a recess on the ECU or something.
Previous owner had shaved the pinch weld, but still left the razor edge there, so atleast I was able to tab it out sofar and bend down the razor's edge.
I plan on coating things with JBWeld; does anybody need to convince me to use the rubber permatec/silicone instead?
I need something with a little bit more volume to fill the recesses since my tabs are much shorter.

Unfortunately, I have a ridiculous set of wheels; 20x12 -44s but I am trying to see if I can atleast make 'em fully streetable and look into getting a set of bush wheels for dem jumps.

Here are some pics. Bending the lower part out makes it easier to bend the inner bracket. U need to beat it in pretty good. Sometimes u even need to readjust the doors ( lower hinge) after hammering it all in just a little. The way u see it fits nicely under the glassworks inner fender wells

 

[Johnny Psyhos]

hey all, i have a quick question. I have a gen 1 it has 37s, glass, and fox 3.0s and I drive it hard in the sand. I was watching a video by keep it dirty offroad on youtube about fitting 37s. (his is a gen 2). And the video said that there is a huge risk of shattering the wind shield when cutting and hammering the pinch welds. this may be true for a gen 2, but is it the same case for a gen 1. If it is possible, how easy is it to destroy a perfectly good wind shield.

 

[Canuck714]

hey all, i have a quick question. I have a gen 1 it has 37s, glass, and fox 3.0s and I drive it hard in the sand. I was watching a video by keep it dirty offroad on youtube about fitting 37s. (his is a gen 2). And the video said that there is a huge risk of shattering the wind shield when cutting and hammering the pinch welds. this may be true for a gen 2, but is it the same case for a gen 1. If it is possible, how easy is it to destroy a perfectly good wind shield.

don't think I have ever seen that happen on a G1 TBH...

 

[Johnny Psyhos]

don't think I have ever seen that happen on a G1 TBH...

Thanks, I made the cuts, folded it, then painted it no problem.