Overhaul Time

[Donovan]

RAPTORIANs,

Some educated help required here folks. I have reached 170,000 glorious miles on my Avalanche 2017 RAPTOR.

• Task 1. I was doing my spark plugs and found some oil laying on top of the drive side of the engine... Do I need a new valve cover gasket?

Task 2. Suspension: Buy new Gen 2 suspension or buy used Gen 3 suspension or aftermarket or rebuild current suspension

• Which would you choose and why?
• Which is less costly?
• What is my down time. ( I ain't trying to put a shit ton of mileage on the Range Rover ).
• Task 3. Transmission: This son of a bitch is acting up in 5th and 8th going into 9th.
  • Do I just do a transmission internal kit
  • Take it easy and do flush and new filter
  • Get a new tune from the GOOSEMEISTER after the fact and go from there for buttery smooth shifts
• Task 4. The rest of the mechanicals - what else should I consider
  • Alternator
  • Coolant parts
  • AC lines
  • Oil separators
• Task 4. Updates: It is time to make it a real RAPTOR
  • KCLITES - When I do these, I need to ensure they are foldable. So I need to fabricate a piece that folds these either down or up or an easy disconnect system, with easy disconnecting plugs to the vehicle. (Good idea, I know, someone patent it and give me 5% proceeds).
  • Bumper - One of them fancy ones
  • AT4 Falkens - Alright so, are these really better or not? If the AT3s drastically fall in price, I will just stick with those.

Needless to say. I got questions.

 

[John813]

1. Maybe. You do your own oil changes? Notice any loss over 1-3k miles?
2. What's your end goal with the truck? I went Fox Race Series(17-18) as I'm regarded but also like to offroad the truck ~6 times a year and wanted adjustability without dealing with eclik/wiring etc. OEM is pretty good setup for casual offroading.
3. If it's acting up, a flush may just finish it off. Maybe drain and inspect first?
4. Really just basic maintenance. Flush changes.
5. Question for you is to frame cut or not to frame cut. Also, try to fit 40's. lol

 

[Donovan]

1. Maybe. You do your own oil changes? Notice any loss over 1-3k miles?
2. What's your end goal with the truck? I went Fox Race Series(17-18) as I'm regarded but also like to offroad the truck ~6 times a year and wanted adjustability without dealing with eclik/wiring etc. OEM is pretty good setup for casual offroading.
3. If it's acting up, a flush may just finish it off. Maybe drain and inspect first?
4. Really just basic maintenance. Flush changes.
5. Question for you is to frame cut or not to frame cut. Also, try to fit 40's. lol

1. I take the truck to the dealer for all oil changes. No oil loss honestly. I get what you're saying, maybe someone dropped some oil?
2. End goal is just to drive it for as long as possible. 95% Road use.
3. Tough to hear that. I will do the drain and filter change, inspect for shavings I suppose?
4. Roger
5. I think no frame cut, but the frame cut bumpers do look pretty damn slick. With the ADD though, I mean, I want to retain the ability to cruise control and have distance sensors lol.

 

[Muchmore]

If you have 170k and only have oil on the TOP of the motor, that's pretty darn good. I would take that in a heartbeat. These dang things seem to leak from everywhere, at least mine. Could be intake, cam cover or at 170k it could be blowout from the filler tube surround.

 

[Donovan]

I never thought about the filler tube area or cam cover. The truck has never overheated or blown anything

*knock on 3rd leg*

I hope that the changes that I make are to make the life of the engine longer.

 

[John813]

1. I take the truck to the dealer for all oil changes. No oil loss honestly. I get what you're saying, maybe someone dropped some oil?
2. End goal is just to drive it for as long as possible. 95% Road use.
3. Tough to hear that. I will do the drain and filter change, inspect for shavings I suppose?
4. Roger
5. I think no frame cut, but the frame cut bumpers do look pretty damn slick. With the ADD though, I mean, I want to retain the ability to cruise control and have distance sensors lol.

Yea, I only mention that as after I bought mine used I changed the plugs to inspect the valve covers.
I spilled some oil on my last change and a week later I got freaked out for a bit till I realized I did make a mess the last go around but am watching just in case.

For 95% road use I would either go rock auto for brand new shocks or use a rebuild service to limit downtime.
I've done flushes in the past without issue, but it seems that others have had more issues after flushes than before.
Drain would allow to check for shavings.
I want to go non frame cut to replace my stock bumper too. Just too lazy to pull the trigger and deal with the relocation of the ACC.

 

[DFS]

Regarding transmission I believe @FordTechOne as advised to drop the pan and never do a flush to avoid debris/contaminates being broken loose and polluting the transmission. I'd wait for him to chime in though.

 

[BBR]

I just ordered full set of shock from RA, cheapest price around. They arrive today and are in stock. $230 cheaper delivered than tasca. I'm going to have my current shocks rebuilt locally for $140/corner and keep for next time.

Check out your driver side valve cover. They are known to crack resulting in oil. Mine did and was replaced at dealer.

 

[FordTechOne]

Regarding transmission I believe @FordTechOne as advised to drop the pan and never do a flush to avoid debris/contaminates being broken loose and polluting the transmission. I'd wait for him to chime in though.

Correct. Ford strictly recommends against transmission flushes.

The only components that should be flushed are the torque converter and cooler/lines, but that is only during an overhaul.

 

[nikhsub1]

Valve cover is likely cracked, known issue, check and replace.