Oil separators / catch can brands

[image98]

UPR Catch Can

I installed the UPR Catch Can on my 2017 truck. It took me a bout 90 minutes total to do the install. Removing the intake was the most time consuming step. I'm really pleased with the build quality and all the necessary mounting hardware is included. The Catch Can has a built in drain valve on the bottom, which makes the cleaning process really simple. I measured 1.5 tablespoons of motor oil after approximately 2000 miles of use.





UPR 17-18 F150 Ecoboost Plug n Play Dual Valve Catch Can Pro-Series™ Check Valves

My Truck Thread

http://www.fordraptorforum.com/f260/my-first-truck-2017-ford-raptor-supercrew-57315/

 

[zombiekiller]

I ordered mine two weeks ago. Waiting for you to post more info

i got it sorted.

full race was apparently really slammed trying to get ready for sema. but one of the guys did step off the build to go through it with me and also sent me better pics.

if you do it incorrectly, you WILL get a persistent CEL.

I will take pictures and write up the install specifics to be wary of so that you dont get a CEL this weekend.

 

[mikeyj67]

Put on a JLT a couple of days ago and today threw code P04DB.

 

[zombiekiller]

i got it sorted.

full race was apparently really slammed trying to get ready for sema. but one of the guys did step off the build to go through it with me and also sent me better pics.

if you do it incorrectly, you WILL get a persistent CEL.

I will take pictures and write up the install specifics to be wary of so that you dont get a CEL this weekend.

Here is how it looks completely installed. (please excuse the hard water stains on the catch can)



here is the correct hose routing.

Passenger Side:



Driver's side:



Intake port block-off:




Notes:

Instead of using a razor blade to cut the factory hoses ( to free up the hose ends) I REALLY recommend using a heat gun instead. heat the hose and wiggle the ends out of the hose. If you decide to go back to stock, you can reassemble the hoses easily.

Full race sends a black nipple to block off the intake port. The instructions didn't specify that you had to put a hose clamp on it. Mine flew off in a mile without the hose clamp.

I opted to thoroughly clean a leftover hose end, then fill it with RTV. After which I used heat shrink to cap the end. I like this better than just using the nipple, but the choice is yours.

On the driver's side, MAKE ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN that you only seperate the hose from the upstream end of the sensor. DO NOT disassemble the sensor from the 90 degree fitting! the sensor and hose end will be garbage if you do this. you WILL have to buy a new hose. They are $22. ( ask me how i know. )

The 90 degree end with the sensor attached to it should be connected to the head.

It does not matter which port on the catch can you connect this to.

The other connection goes from catch can to intake tube.


If you place the 90 degree fitting with sensor on the intake end, you WILL get a P04DB misfire DTC. You will get it EVERY TIME you start the truck.

There is no way to retain the engine cover with this setup. ( i personally don't care.)

you will notice that you hear louder ticking/normal ecoboost engine noise as the foam rubber engine cover isnt there to dampen it any longer.

Hope this helps anyone choosing the full race catch can. The kit is well made and works! the instructions just leave a LOT to be desired.

 

[Smokeshow60]

Here is how it looks completely installed. (please excuse the hard water stains on the catch can)



here is the correct hose routing.

Passenger Side:



Driver's side:



Intake port block-off:




Notes:

Instead of using a razor blade to cut the factory hoses ( to free up the hose ends) I REALLY recommend using a heat gun instead. heat the hose and wiggle the ends out of the hose. If you decide to go back to stock, you can reassemble the hoses easily.

Full race sends a black nipple to block off the intake port. The instructions didn't specify that you had to put a hose clamp on it. Mine flew off in a mile without the hose clamp.

I opted to thoroughly clean a leftover hose end, then fill it with RTV. After which I used heat shrink to cap the end. I like this better than just using the nipple, but the choice is yours.

On the driver's side, MAKE ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN that you only seperate the hose from the upstream end of the sensor. DO NOT disassemble the sensor from the 90 degree fitting! the sensor and hose end will be garbage if you do this. you WILL have to buy a new hose. They are $22. ( ask me how i know. )

The 90 degree end with the sensor attached to it should be connected to the head.

It does not matter which port on the catch can you connect this to.

The other connection goes from catch can to intake tube.


If you place the 90 degree fitting with sensor on the intake end, you WILL get a P04DB misfire DTC. You will get it EVERY TIME you start the truck.

There is no way to retain the engine cover with this setup. ( i personally don't care.)

you will notice that you hear louder ticking/normal ecoboost engine noise as the foam rubber engine cover isnt there to dampen it any longer.

Hope this helps anyone choosing the full race catch can. The kit is well made and works! the instructions just leave a LOT to be desired.

Wow.... After seeing this I'm feeling pretty happy about going with the UPR unit instead. Nice write-up tho.

 

[zombiekiller]

Wow.... After seeing this I'm feeling pretty happy about going with the UPR unit instead. Nice write-up tho.

Thanks!

my hoses are probably longer than they have to be. I ended up not being able to use the hose that is included with the kit after trying to figure it out on my own ( because the instructions as they sat were not clear or consistent). Once you cut the length of hose that is provided incorrectly, there really isn't a way to salvage the hoses at the correct lengths.

I would recommend cutting the longest hose first, which is the catch can to intake tube, then doing the Driver's side head to catch can hose. I'd do the passenger side hose last because it is the shortest.

The PTFE braided hose that I had handy is stiffer and slightly smaller diameter, so I had to extend the lengths so the hose wasn't in danger of collapsing under vacuum where the loops are.

It is a very well made kit and doesn't require drilling into the intake tube. (which I prefer. )

I'm happy with the kit and don't particularly care about the engine cover.

 

[Smokeshow60]

Thanks!

my hoses are probably longer than they have to be. I ended up not being able to use the hose that is included with the kit after trying to figure it out on my own ( because the instructions as they sat were not clear or consistent). Once you cut the length of hose that is provided incorrectly, there really isn't a way to salvage the hoses at the correct lengths.

I would recommend cutting the longest hose first, which is the catch can to intake tube, then doing the Driver's side head to catch can hose. I'd do the passenger side hose last because it is the shortest.

The PTFE braided hose that I had handy is stiffer and slightly smaller diameter, so I had to extend the lengths so the hose wasn't in danger of collapsing under vacuum where the loops are.

It is a very well made kit and doesn't require drilling into the intake tube. (which I prefer. )

I'm happy with the kit and don't particularly care about the engine cover.

I do think the can itself is pretty cool...
Don't care for having to ditch the engine cover tho but that's not really a deal breaker. I had no reservations about drilling my intake tube either due to the fact that that part would probably be cheap to replace if it was ever necessary

 

[ReyLorenzo]

That Full Race catch can looks cool but how much of a pain in the ass will it be when it's time to drain the catch can?

 

[zombiekiller]

That Full Race catch can looks cool but how much of a pain in the ass will it be when it's time to drain the catch can?

uhm. there is a valve on the rear corner of the can on the driver's side. A water or soda bottle fits easily underneath it.

Place the bottle, throw the lever and it'll drain just fine ( and quite easily).

 

[ReyLorenzo]

uhm. there is a valve on the rear corner of the can on the driver's side. A water or soda bottle fits easily underneath it.

Place the bottle, throw the lever and it'll drain just fine ( and quite easily).

Couldn’t tell from the pics. I figured they’d have a valve or something to drain it, I just couldn’t see anything in the pics.