can we truly equate to the ride being better or your excitement for your new parts clouding objective facts.
I refrain from being the type of person who believes that whatever part or modification I choose to install instantly makes an item better (aka not your typical FRF fan boy). Over the years I've tested countless "beneficial" motorcycle parts, and have disappointed my self and others when I come back to the trailer shaking my head saying "its better the way it was". So I'd like to think I can rule that out. I also have a decent group of double blind peanut gallery as frequent passengers.
do you know what a flutter stack does? your first post almost described it perfectly. EVEYTHING you did made your ride stiffer and harsher overall.
I have to disagree with you there. In theory (I'm no expert, so I stick with the theories), when re-valving with a flutter stack, you will achieve a softer initial hi speed compression rate that will allow the ride to be more smooth over washboard type roads. It's a poor mans solution to fully adjustable shocks, but it works some what. HOWEVER, did I do the re-valve myself, no, so I have no idea what shims were installed and in what order. Now you have some validity in your point. Am I blowing through the initial "soft" zone? Maybe. Were the shocks valved while on the bottom perch? Yes. By moving to mid perch did I possibly screw with the valving? Possibly. Could a flutter stack complemented by roached shock fluid and possible low nitrogen charge equate to a bone rattling ride? That answer will be shipped to my door in a crate marked Icon.
im not saying the ride in the back is harsher because you put something on it, im saying the front is much harsher and the rear is reacting to this.
The rear is way more harsh than the front. Yes an object in motion stays in motion, or whatever we were taught in the 5th grade, but trust me the rear is worse.
i am more than willing to bet if you tossed some stockers up front, that are not leaking and have a proper nitro charge, your ride would feel much smoother and back to the caddy ride we all love.
If it were only that simple. After sending my shocks to California to be rebuilt and paying good money to do so, I'm just going to upgrade to a system that is designed to be rebuilt and serviced regularly. I initially thought that the factory 2.5's were good, and after a few adjustments they would serve me just fine. As you might tell, my outlook on life has changed.
Side note: This ****** ride has all rapidly developed after a hard Texas winter Freeze. Could the cold affect the fluid life, seals and bushings? I get bored at work and my mind wonders.
The weather is looking up this weekend. I'll try and give the suspension components and drive train a look and a shake, then we can dive backing the entertaining discussion of Fox 2.5 do's and don'ts.
---------- Post added at 10:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:13 PM ----------
Since I am now committed to the Ford Raptor Forum, and have apparently typed up something people are semi interested in, I am soliciting openminded suggestions to aid in combatting the following worn out pieces of shit on my 41,000 mile "built for Baja" truck:
Power steering system - I'm getting tired of replacing pumps and racks, 3 of each so far. Installing new pump and inline filter this weekend and flushing all fluids. Truck has PSS reservoir, and cooler installed already. Any other bright ideas are appreciated.
Rear differential - Not sure if its a U-joint or the diff yet, but all signs point to the diff. Rear pinion bearing went 6,000 miles ago, ford rebuilt the diff under warranty, but it now has a lot of play. Truck rode like a dream until 1,000 miles ago. Symptoms feel like a worn out U-joint, but don't project the usual vibrations and humming noises. I'm assuming it has too much backlash. Disassemble, inspect, and replace the crush sleeve to achieve the proper backlash tolerances? Or am I looking at a larger, more expensive undertaking.
Fix Or Repair Daily...
