Let There Be Light

[K223]

I live in the burbs and when I do use lights, I always, and I mean always keep my hand on the switches so I can instantly turn them off when needed. I would not like being blinded and so would never do it to anyone else.

Yeah that’s cool. And if you drive a lot of dead roads out there, having the lights with reaching power can be a plus. I can rarely use my driving combo around town. But have two more pairs for that.

 

[MDJAK]

Sorry, I couldn't find where the hell I saved it. Now I copied it in my pictures and my docs. By the way, don't be ***** like me and forget to double the ratings for each light because they are not rated as a pair.

So I said to myself, Self, what exactly is he saying? Some of the upfitter switches are rated at 15 amps. I looked at the website and the spots are 3.3 amps each. That should work on any switch, or so I thought. Even with the description of the wires above, I screwed up. I connected the innermost driving combo to switch 1 which was fine. I then connected the wide, outermost to what wound up as switch 4 and it was fine.

Then, like a jerk, an f'in moron, I used the wrong jaw of the plier to squeeze the crimp portion of the wire and cut it right off. That was a real PIA. But I connected it finally, the spots went on and immediately off.

Did I blow a fuse?

I then connected it to one of the two remaining wires and same thing happened. From one pair of lights.

I had one wire left, connected to it and it worked fine.

And to think last time I had two pairs of lights on one switch. How could one pair rated at 3.3 amps each light blow 2 fuses? And where the hell are those fuses? Do they only control the upfitter switches?

 

[4x4TruckLEDs.com]

Switches 1-2 are 15 amps
Switches 3-4 are 10 amps
Switches 4-5 are 5 amps.

1 pair of Squadron Pro or Racers can only be used on Switches 1-4. Switches 5/6 don't have enough amperage.


As for mounting them as far forwad as possible... MDJAK made that decision because he wants them as far forward as he can. Doing this of course with 3 Squadrons does limit how spread out they are, because of the size of the Squadrons and the taper of the bumper opening. Had Ford not had a taper, you'd be able to move the outter most one out all the way, but because of that Taper, the squadron light will hit the front bezel making it more difficult to aim them. So that's why the lights get smooshed closer together. Using the center channel allows more clearance for squadrons and you spread them out.. BUT as MDJAK said, he likes them all the way forward. So that's just a personal preference is all.

I recommended he put his Squadron Racers in the center because he was going to have them crammed together and this would allow the full racer to go down range (instead of possibly being blocked). The driving/combo is on the inside since it'll light up the road no matter where you put it. But it's a personal preference. On my truck my wide cornering are on the outsides and my driving/combo is in the center. But that's just because I wanted my amber on the inside, white on the outside and the one i used the least in the middle. The nice part about our brackets is that it doesn't really matter where you put them.

Racers will throw light further then the other lights and it's a spot pattern... just a finer pattern then say squadron pro spots. Good to REALLY throw light down range. Since you have driving/combos, the racers will work well with all the lights on. THe driving/combo will throw wide and spots and then the racers will pickup the slack.

 

[CoronaRaptor]

So I said to myself, Self, what exactly is he saying? Some of the upfitter switches are rated at 15 amps. I looked at the website and the spots are 3.3 amps each. That should work on any switch, or so I thought. Even with the description of the wires above, I screwed up. I connected the innermost driving combo to switch 1 which was fine. I then connected the wide, outermost to what wound up as switch 4 and it was fine.

Then, like a jerk, an f'in moron, I used the wrong jaw of the plier to squeeze the crimp portion of the wire and cut it right off. That was a real PIA. But I connected it finally, the spots went on and immediately off.

Did I blow a fuse?

I then connected it to one of the two remaining wires and same thing happened. From one pair of lights.

I had one wire left, connected to it and it worked fine.

And to think last time I had two pairs of lights on one switch. How could one pair rated at 3.3 amps each light blow 2 fuses? And where the hell are those fuses? Do they only control the upfitter switches?

Don't the gen 2's have lit up upfitter switches? are the lights on? Switch is good. Do you have a meter or not? Lets start there.

 

[Oldfart]

Switches 5 and 6 are only 5 amps, if that's what blew. That's what I did. I was thinking 2.9 total for my Squadron, not 2.9 X 2, and I blew a couple fuses until I figured out with some help from in here what the heck I was doing wrong. There is a specific fuse for each switch in the box near the battery. Those freaking fuses are about $8 each and can be a little hard to find replacements for. I think they are called M case fuses if I remember correctly. I had never seen them before, a weird fuse that looks like a little box.

If the lights went on for a second or two and then off, that's what mine did when I overloaded the low amp switches and popped the fuses. #6 is fuse 62 under the hood to the rear of the battery. That was my preferred one to pop a few times until I figured out what I was doing wrong.

 

[CoronaRaptor]

 

[CoronaRaptor]

Assignment of the fuses in the Power distribution box (2018, 2019, 2020)
№ Amp Rating Protected Components
1 25A Horn.
2 50A Electric fan 1.
3 30 A Windshield wiper motor.
4 60A Body control module.
5 30 A Starter relay.
6 20A Cigar lighter power point 1.
8 20A Cigar lighter power point 2.
10 5A Rain sensor.
12 15A Upfitter 1 relay (Raptor).
13 10A 4x4 run/start. Adaptive cruise control run/start.
14 - / 15A Not used (spare).
15 7.5A / 15A(Raptor) 2018: Front view camera. Voltage quality module. Headlamp leveling run/start.
2019-2020: Front view camera. Voltage quality module.
Voltage quality module. (15A, Raptor)
16 10A 2018: Powertrain control module.
2019-2020: Powertrain control module. Transmission control module run/start.
17 10A Anti-lock brakes run/start.
18 10A Electric power steering run/start.
19 5A Upfitter 5 relay (Raptor).
20 40A Blower motor.
21 30 A Passenger seat motors.
22 20A Radio amplifier.
23 10A Alt A sensor.
24 30A Trailer brake control module
25 50A Body control module 1.
26 50A Electric fan.
27 30A Driver seat motors/memory module.
28 15 A Heated seat.
29 10A 4x4 solenoid.
30 25 A Trailer tow battery charge.
31 — Not used.
32 10A A/C clutch.
33 — Not used.
34 10A Vehicle power 5 (Diesel).
35 20A Vehicle power 4 (Gas).
35 15 A Vehicle power 4 (Diesel).
36 10A Vehicle power 3.
37 25A Vehicle power 2 (Gas).
37 15 A Vehicle power 2 (Diesel).
38 25A Vehicle power 1 (Gas).
38 20A Vehicle power 1 (Diesel).
39 — Not used.
41 30A Body-control-module voltage-quality-module feed.
43 20A Trailer tow lamps module.
45 — Not used.
46 10A Steering-column lock.
47 50A Powertrain control heater 3 (Diesel).
48 30 A Fuel filter heater.
49 — Not used.
50 30 A Fuel pump.
51 20A Power point 3.
52 50A Powertrain control heater 2 (Diesel).
53 25A Trailer tow park lamps.
54 — Not used.
55 15A Upfitter 2 relay (Raptor).
56 — Not used.
58 5A USB smart charger.
59 — Not used.
60 — Not used.
61 - / 15A 2018: LH HID headlamp (Raptor).
2019-2020: Not used (spare).
62 5A Upfitter 6 relay (Raptor).
63 25A 4x4 2.
64 15A E-locker.
65 — Not used.
66 — Not used.
67 — Not used.
69 — Not used.
70 40A 2018: Electric parking brake.
2019-2020: Anti-lock brake system (ABS) valves. Electric parking brake.
71 25 A 4x4.
72 — Not used.
73 — Not used.
74 10A Trailer tow backup lamps.
75 — Not used.
76 40A Body control module 2.
77 30A Climate controlled seat.
78 10A Spot light module.
79 — Not used.
80 10A Heated windshield wiper. Upfitter 4 relay (Raptor).
81 — Not used.
82 30A Transmission fluid pump.
82 5A Powertrain control module (Diesel).
83 15 A Transmission control module.
84 — Not used.
85 — Not used.
86 — Not used.
87 — Not used.
88 10A Multi-Contour Seats Relay. Upfitter 3 relay (Raptor).
89 30 A Power running boards.
91 — Not used.
93 15A Heated mirrors.
94 15A Rear heated seat module (Raptor, Diesel).
95 - / 15A 2018: RH HID lamp (Raptor).
2019-2020: Not used/Spare.
96 — Not used.
97 40A Electric fan (Raptor).
97 50A Powertrain control heater 1 (Diesel).
98 15A 10R transmission module r/s. 3.3L transmission fluid pump.
99 40A Heated rear window.
100 25A Diesel exhaust fluid (DEF) heater relay (Diesel).
101 25A Electric fan.
102 30 A Power sliding back window.
103 20A Trailer tow stop-turn relay fuse.
104 15A Snowplow switch. Rear heated seats.
105 10A Telescoping mirror.
R02 — Powertrain control module relay.
R05 — Electric fan relay.

 

[MDJAK]

so I need to replace 9 and 62. TYVM.

 

[Oldfart]

so I need to replace 9 and 62. TYVM.

Hey, look at it this way, now I'm not the only one!!! I was ready to bang my head against the wall trying to figure out why the fuses were blowing when OBVIOUSLY I wasn't overloading them. If you want to use 5 or 6 you can throw a relay on it and still use it. I wanted my Racer Spots all the way to the right (6), so I just wired a relay into that circuit under the hood.

 

[MDJAK]

It would be very difficult to swap what switches I’m using now as the wires are crimped inside the harness. I’ll just wind up labeling them and probably have dealer change fuses when I do first oil change.