Intercooler condensation

[Ruby]

I drilled a weep hole in ur moms
Rear end

...

 

[Carnut]

Not everyone bud. My last truck was an ecoboost f150- one of the first. Sold it with almost 200k and no issues. My wife drives an ecoboost explorer- 100k, no issues.
And here, from what I've read, zero weep holes, almost no problems.

Why is it you keep pushing this so hard? Do you even own a raptor? Why is it you keep getting banned from forums, then change your name and start over with the same drama? I don't get it. Drilling holes is absurd and I'd never do it. If the motor hydrolocks as you claim it may, I have a warranty for that. Unless I drill a hole...

Something tells me your a 13yr old kid getting your kicks.

 

[tightt]

Along with the ****/water you inject, you must also increase boost and/or timing...or guess what? you get a misfire/hesitation.

Yea....thats not true. Three of my cars (of varying WHP levels from 480whp to 820whp) run Water/**** systems...with varying percentages of water to methanol. You can absolutely run water/**** at a 50/50 mix without necessarily changing boost or timing. It keeps my intake charge cool and my engine sparkling clean!

 

[ogdobber]

Yea....thats not true. Three of my cars (of varying WHP levels from 480whp to 820whp) run Water/**** systems...with varying percentages of water to methanol. You can absolutely run water/**** at a 50/50 mix without necessarily changing boost or timing. It keeps my intake charge cool and my engine sparkling clean!

If your not upping the boost whats the point?

So if it doesn't matter, get rid of the **** and while you are at it take off the spray nozzles.

If you don't see potential problems with that, then you obviously didn't install your systems and don't really know how it works


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[NASSTY]

If your not upping the boost whats the point?

So if it doesn't matter, get rid of the **** and while you are at it take off the spray nozzles.

If you don't see potential problems with that, then you obviously didn't install your systems and don't really know how it works.

Just cooling the cylinder temps down would help some.
However...I inject straight **** on my Grand National so I can crank the boost up from 15psi to 26psi.

 

[tightt]

If your not upping the boost whats the point?

So if it doesn't matter, get rid of the **** and while you are at it take off the spray nozzles.

If you don't see potential problems with that, then you obviously didn't install your systems and don't really know how it works


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Well...now you're changing the question at hand. You said that without increasing the boost and/or timing the end result will net misfires. Do you still stand-by your statement?

If you want to have a lengthy discussion regarding water injection and its merits I'd be happy, to but we're not off to a great start seeing as though you don't have a solid foundation of knowledge of the different reasons one may choose to run a water injection system. There are also different installation techniques to accommodate differing goals.

To answer your question "If your not upping the boost whats the point?"

Sometimes systems are added to net benefits OTHER that adding power....akin to intercooling, water injection can be used to help mitigate the power-robbing effects of heat (both ambient and charge pressure).

All three aquamist systems I own were installed by myself. Two of my cars run a 50/50 mix of water/**** (VP M1), injector duty cycle dependent, running 1mm nozzles (2) to reap the cooling benefits of the system (lowering my knock values in hot weather) and NOT tuned for power on the ****. My third car runs 100% **** (VP M1) as a primary fuel increase as the vehicle in question has maxed out its OE fuel pump capability and there are no upgrades currently available on the market to increase flow. So, in this case, the car IS tuned for the **** and MS109 race fuel in order to produce the high HP numbers that it does. The car is primarily used for 1/2 mile racing events.

Do you have further questions or shall we leave it at this?

---------- Post added at 12:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:22 PM ----------

Just cooling the cylinder temps down would help some.
However...I inject straight **** on my Grand National so I can crank the boost up from 15psi to 26psi.

Strait **** is fun!! Just please ensure you have your system setup bulletproof (fuel cell to hold the ****, real fuel lines and not the cheap-o ones they give you in the kit, etc)...I've seen some bad fires due to **** leaks.

 

[ogdobber]

Yes I stand by my statement... That is on a factory tuned system.
You are cooling a charge/ambient temps that your intercooler can't keep up with, so maybe lower the boost and you wouldn't need. See my point
Unmetered water in a factory tuned system will always get a misfire

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[RUFdriver]

Please don't drill a hole in the intercooler and create a boost leak, it's beyond stupid on a turbo motor.

 

[tightt]

Yes I stand by my statement... That is on a factory tuned system.
You are cooling a charge/ambient temps that your intercooler can't keep up with, so maybe lower the boost and you wouldn't need. See my point
Unmetered water in a factory tuned system will always get a misfire

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I have water/**** on a factory tuned car. It doesn't misfire as you said.

That ends that.

Secondly, cars have knock sensory for a reason, to adapt the tune for differing grades of fuel, differing altitudes, and differing ambient air temps. My intercoolers are just fine....physics are physics. On super hot days doing multiple pulls will slow just about any car (not to mention forced induction cars) down. Having water/**** helps tremendously with this. Consistency....not necessarily power.

Lastly, the fact that the Squatch likes your post pretty much says it all.

 

[jakeO]

I had a 2012 FX4 Ecoboost I bought it new 15 miles on it in march by July I had the limp mode happen 4 times. I bought my Raptor in May and by July no limp. This in the Midwest climate.
THE DIFRENCE IS THE MAF SENSOR ON THE FIRST GEN ECO. THE GEN 2 HAS A MAP

you guys new to the ECOBooST make me laugh. The concern is not hydro-locking for the love of god. The earlier ECOBooST would go into limp mode when to much condensation would make it into the intake. It is thought that it would hit a sensor and trigger a over boost fault or the water would hit a spark plug and make it miss. When in limp you would have to pull over to the side of the road with little to no power and restart the truck. This is scary as shit when you are in lane #4 of the interstate.

How ever the older ECOs had a Mass air located down stream from the IC and this was most likely the culprit. The 2nd gen ECOs have 2 MAP sensors.