Installing aftermarket horns??????????

[mudblood]

You don't need to mess with the stock horn fuse. Don't worry, I hate wiring as well.

I refer to this diagram at times. Replace the worth "lights" with "horn."




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Joe you have really been a lot of help. So here are my stupid questions in looking at your picture.

1. "from switch" I assume means from the stock horn wire? Right?
2. "to power LED lights" would be power out to horns? Right?
3. "12 volt constant" I am not sure what exactly goes those two locations? If power from horns goes to "from switch" location. What is suppoised to go to those two locations?

I am also assuming I don't need to worry about the stock horn fuse as the relay has a fuse?

I am sorry for all the stupid questions but I told you I am stupid when it comes to wiring. Please understand I am very slow when it comes to this stuff.

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

Joe you have really been a lot of help. So here are my stupid questions in looking at your picture.

1. "from switch" I assume means from the stock horn wire? Right?
2. "to power LED lights" would be power out to horns? Right?
3. "12 volt constant" I am not sure what exactly goes those two locations? If power from horns goes to "from switch" location. What is suppoised to go to those two locations?

I am also assuming I don't need to worry about the stock horn fuse as the relay has a fuse?

I am sorry for all the stupid questions but I told you I am stupid when it comes to wiring. Please understand I am very slow when it comes to this stuff.

i gave that to joe a long time ago when he wired up his first relay. haha.

a relay needs power and ground to work. if your horn wire (switch)is a (+) then the other side needs to be a (-) so that would mean 86 on the relay goes to ground. 87 should be a constant power source and 30 goes out to your horn

 

[SilentShooter]

3. "12 volt constant" I am not sure what exactly goes those two locations? If power from horns goes to "from switch" location. What is suppoised to go to those two locations?

Well lets start out by what the relay is used for. The relay is being used to isolate a high current draw from the switching source. So if you just replaced the horns with ones that used the same amount of power you could just wire them to the factory wires that went to the horns you replaced.

But when adding more current draw you need another feeder cable that can handle that current. So the relay allows you to run another power cable to power the horns and have them switch on/off utilizing the original horns switched power feed while keeping the power draw isolated from the original circuit.

When ever you add a new power feeder cable you should always have it fused and keep the fuse as close to the power source as possible. Use only a fuse that is large enough for the load and be sure the wire you use it rated for that load.

So basically the 12v constant should be a new power cable running from the battery that has an inline fuse. And as you see in Joes pic you only need one line and can bridge it to both terminals.

 

[Yukon Joe]

Additionally, it helps to draw it out on paper.

I would think that a 25 amp inline fuse would be good for the constant power.

Only thing I don't really see yet is how the small compressors are powered and what switches them on?


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[The Car Stereo Company]

i think its one of those that get power when you press the button. no air tank, just a small compressor

 

[SilentShooter]

yep, these cheapie units are not like real air horns that have a high pressure tank and compressor that charge the system and then a solenoid to release the air to the horns.

These just have a single relay that enables the pumps which feeds the horns. You will notice the dB on them are way lower than real horns

 

[mudblood]

yep, these cheapie units are not like real air horns that have a high pressure tank and compressor that charge the system and then a solenoid to release the air to the horns.

These just have a single relay that enables the pumps which feeds the horns. You will notice the dB on them are way lower than real horns

Actually you would be very surprised at the amount of sound these twin horns put out. They both have compressors and I measured at 106 DB. If you measure the factory horns you get a whopping 88 DB. The down side is the twin compressors are small and will run out of air if you hold the horn down for ten or twenty seconds. Course you gotta be pretty pissed to do that!

 

[SilentShooter]

The horn kit I am getting is 148db...

 

[mudblood]

Additionally, it helps to draw it out on paper.

I would think that a 25 amp inline fuse would be good for the constant power.

Only thing I don't really see yet is how the small compressors are powered and what switches them on?


Donate to Avery and be entered into a raffle for an awesome prize for your Raptor
http://www.fordraptorforum.com/f195/november-pay-forward-event-38746/#post780993

The compressors have a positive and negative hook up right to the compressors. If I am tieing directly into the stock horn wires and using that power I am assuming I can hook right to the compressors without using the relay. I would also be working off the stock fuse from the stock horns. My have to go to a 30 aqmp fuse though. In the instructions they say if I am wiring directly from stock horn wires I don't need to use relay or add fuse. Now my assumption would be that they mean replacing the stock hors with their horns. Not sure if I can accomplish the same thing tieing directly into the stock horn wires and leave the stock horns on as well.

---------- Post added at 11:31 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:28 AM ----------

The horn kit I am getting is 148db...

Horn envy!!!!!!!!!

Here in Georgia you can quickly get a ticket for blowing such a huge noise. Got a friend that got three different tickets for acting the fool with his train horns on just one instance.

 

[SilentShooter]

If you are running them with the stock horns you need the relay and separate power feed.