nikhsub1
FRF Addict
Coming from turbo cars I have learned that OEM intercoolers and generally shit, the Gen 2 Raptor is no exception. I bought the ADD/Full race setup a while ago, gave it to my business partner (he was going to install but didn't) and I took it back and installed it over the weekend. The ADD instructions are pretty good, there were a couple of things that didn't jive but it was easy to figure it out, I think the instructions are a bit old and maybe some things have changed. For example, my upper grill louver system was not even plugged in. The motor was there but it was unplugged and there is no plug for it. The bottom intercooler grill's motor was plugged in however. Both motors are identical FYI.
You can see I zip tied the motor up and out of the way - it needs to be plugged in so no codes are thrown.
The install is not difficult and the truck can remain on the ground, and actually unless you have a lift, ground is preferred. If the truck were higher, on ramps or jack stands, it would have bee too high IMO. Proper trim tools ARE A MUST. There are a lot of clips to undo, you need trim tools. I have a set like THESE - I keep them in a ziplock under the rear seat. Removing everything is pretty easy with the right tools, as mentioned. Once you get the OEM IC and IC housing there is TONS of room in there!. I mean, you can sit crosslegged under the truck. Also, from now on when I change oil, I'm removing the entire skid plate - there is so much room and it's only 6 bolts - a cordless impact is a huge plus too.
Funny enough, fitting the new piping and connecting hose took me the longest. It's not hard but it's some trial and error in terms of the order of which to attach things, plus, I'm pretty **** so I took it slow.
I recently read somewhere on this forum about a mount bracket for this intercooler made by RPG I think - from what I remember the person said that the IC is mounted to the lower frame and the 'upper frame'. Well, both are false. I guess his point was if they both move in different directions, there could be trouble. Here's the deal, the IC isn't actually bolted to anything - it is a floating mount system that reuses the OEM rubber grommets. Movement from the upper and lower mount won't be an issue.
Here is a pic of the upper mount
It is surprising how much is removed off the truck for the OEM IC. Here are a couple of shots with both intercoolers to give you a good visual. OEM is tube/fin and the full race is bar and plate which i much prefer in air to air.
Just say no to plastic end tanks
I've heard people with concerns about the intercooler blocking the trans cooler, ac condenser and the radiator... I went for a good drive today and noted completely normal temps - I forscanned to have the degree readout over the gauge - water and trans were cool as usual. If anything, the truck may be being cooled more now that the IC grill area blows straight into the engine compartment. Also, the cooling fins on the full race IC and not dense at all, air blows right though it so stacking isn't an issue.
To get this IC to work you do have to cut your grill. You have to cut the inner bottom part that is by the bottom of the IC. The grill won't fit unless you do this, that is one caveat. You also have to cut the center support out of the grill. Basically, you are performing mods to the grill that can not be undone. You remove the louver system then cut the louver support out altogether. Still trying to figure out when having zero air getting to the radiator would ever be a good thing...
I have noticed more turbo noise since install as well. The truck feels a bit lighter on it's feet but I haven't really gotten on it hard yet either. This install takes a good full day if you haven't done it before, are handy and take your time. I could probably do it in half the time now that I've done it once before as it isn't hard at all. Anyway, this sets me up for any bumper I want now as well, so lower IATs and bumper ready is a good thing.
Here are a couple more pics.
Love the dividers which forces the use of the entire core:
And all done!
---------- Post added at 02:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:27 PM ----------
Forgot to mention there was ZERO oil/residue in my intercooler pipes or tubes.
You can see I zip tied the motor up and out of the way - it needs to be plugged in so no codes are thrown.
The install is not difficult and the truck can remain on the ground, and actually unless you have a lift, ground is preferred. If the truck were higher, on ramps or jack stands, it would have bee too high IMO. Proper trim tools ARE A MUST. There are a lot of clips to undo, you need trim tools. I have a set like THESE - I keep them in a ziplock under the rear seat. Removing everything is pretty easy with the right tools, as mentioned. Once you get the OEM IC and IC housing there is TONS of room in there!. I mean, you can sit crosslegged under the truck. Also, from now on when I change oil, I'm removing the entire skid plate - there is so much room and it's only 6 bolts - a cordless impact is a huge plus too.
Funny enough, fitting the new piping and connecting hose took me the longest. It's not hard but it's some trial and error in terms of the order of which to attach things, plus, I'm pretty **** so I took it slow.
I recently read somewhere on this forum about a mount bracket for this intercooler made by RPG I think - from what I remember the person said that the IC is mounted to the lower frame and the 'upper frame'. Well, both are false. I guess his point was if they both move in different directions, there could be trouble. Here's the deal, the IC isn't actually bolted to anything - it is a floating mount system that reuses the OEM rubber grommets. Movement from the upper and lower mount won't be an issue.
Here is a pic of the upper mount
It is surprising how much is removed off the truck for the OEM IC. Here are a couple of shots with both intercoolers to give you a good visual. OEM is tube/fin and the full race is bar and plate which i much prefer in air to air.
Just say no to plastic end tanks
I've heard people with concerns about the intercooler blocking the trans cooler, ac condenser and the radiator... I went for a good drive today and noted completely normal temps - I forscanned to have the degree readout over the gauge - water and trans were cool as usual. If anything, the truck may be being cooled more now that the IC grill area blows straight into the engine compartment. Also, the cooling fins on the full race IC and not dense at all, air blows right though it so stacking isn't an issue.
To get this IC to work you do have to cut your grill. You have to cut the inner bottom part that is by the bottom of the IC. The grill won't fit unless you do this, that is one caveat. You also have to cut the center support out of the grill. Basically, you are performing mods to the grill that can not be undone. You remove the louver system then cut the louver support out altogether. Still trying to figure out when having zero air getting to the radiator would ever be a good thing...
I have noticed more turbo noise since install as well. The truck feels a bit lighter on it's feet but I haven't really gotten on it hard yet either. This install takes a good full day if you haven't done it before, are handy and take your time. I could probably do it in half the time now that I've done it once before as it isn't hard at all. Anyway, this sets me up for any bumper I want now as well, so lower IATs and bumper ready is a good thing.
Here are a couple more pics.
Love the dividers which forces the use of the entire core:
And all done!
---------- Post added at 02:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:27 PM ----------
Forgot to mention there was ZERO oil/residue in my intercooler pipes or tubes.
