ecoraptor conversion, just installed full RPG front suspension, now I have steering i

[yoursmiledoc]

me too

Thanks for the steering degree measurement. Well, mine are almost gone. I ground them till they dont touch front or back and it still won't turn. My steering rack boots are smaller because of the electric power steering so they are binding up between the steering heim adapter and the rack. I will buy some raptor boots and see if that solves the problem. Then I can grind more if necessary.

 

[jcl48]

Thanks for the steering degree measurement. Well, mine are almost gone. I ground them till they dont touch front or back and it still won't turn. My steering rack boots are smaller because of the electric power steering so they are binding up between the steering heim adapter and the rack. I will buy some raptor boots and see if that solves the problem. Then I can grind more if necessary.

I don't think the boots are the problem, my stock boots entered tight through the heim adapter.

 

[yoursmiledoc]

I don't think the boots are the problem, my stock boots entered tight through the heim adapter.

Well, look at these and tell me what you think. My wheels are at 25 degrees to the right and here is the upper arm. Any tighter and it will rup the UCA. Is this a wheel backspacing issue? If someone only replaces the UCA and everything else is stock, would it still steer 35 degrees? The second photo is the passenger Tue rod boot. I will go take another with it compressed. I tried to pry the drivers boot over the heim and it tore.

 

[yoursmiledoc]

now I am confused

I think I found it. It looks like the rack is out of travel, or the heim adapters are interfering. I dont understand how the steering could decrease by 10 degrees when all the components are stock geometry. Any ideas?

 

[jcl48]

Well, look at these and tell me what you think. My wheels are at 25 degrees to the right and here is the upper arm. Any tighter and it will rup the UCA. Is this a wheel backspacing issue? If someone only replaces the UCA and everything else is stock, would it still steer 35 degrees? The second photo is the passenger Tue rod boot. I will go take another with it compressed. I tried to pry the drivers boot over the heim and it tore.

I think I found it. It looks like the rack is out of travel, or the heim adapters are interfering. I dont understand how the steering could decrease by 10 degrees when all the components are stock geometry. Any ideas?

It looks to me like Backspacing issue, where the wheel almost hits the UCA. I have the RPG 1.5" UCA, and at full lock I still have 1.5" or more in clearance at the closer point between UCA and Tire. I am running +1 Offset on Fuel Off-Road Mavericks 20" x 9" with Toyo Open Country R/T 35" x 12.5".

I don't know about your steering rack, but it looks like you are running short with that; and if that's the case keep an eye on that rack since you will be heating its internal components and seals. (I think)

 

[Yukon Joe]

Thanks for the steering degree measurement. Well, mine are almost gone. I ground them till they dont touch front or back and it still won't turn. My steering rack boots are smaller because of the electric power steering so they are binding up between the steering heim adapter and the rack. I will buy some raptor boots and see if that solves the problem. Then I can grind more if necessary.

The stops are there to protect other steering components. As you can see, you are now binding your steering rack at the tie rod connection. This may be fine for street driving, but often in the dirt and at speed, you may need to cut the wheel hard enough to be against the steering stops. With out them you will be binding and stressing other steering components.

Have you discussed this with Corey?

Yukon Joe
www.RUNRAPTORRUN.com

 

[yoursmiledoc]

The stops are there to protect other steering components. As you can see, you are now binding your steering rack at the tie rod connection. This may be fine for street driving, but often in the dirt and at speed, you may need to cut the wheel hard enough to be against the steering stops. With out them you will be binding and stressing other steering components.

Have you discussed this with Corey?

Yukon Joe
Run Raptor Run | Great Lakes Raptor Excursions (GLRE)

Thanks for the concern. I have been very careful not to turn hard once things stop cycling easily because of the lack of active steering stops. I have called RPG and I must have the 1.5 uppers. The rack is still not bottoming out as the steering is only going 25 degrees compared to 35 degrees stock. I also had a friend cycle it and there is about 1" to 1.5" of shaft left before the heim adapter hits the rack. I will be drilling a 1/2 inch hole and welding a nut to the stock arms so the front and rear steering stops can be adjusted. Contrary to RPG's recommendation I am not grinding anything off the stock spindle. I am just trying to get back to 30+ degrees before I make the stops. I have won three desert racing championships including one in BITD for 2012 so I am very experienced with breaking things in the desert. I was hoping someone had already addressed this issue and knew what the issues were. The steering rack boots are different for the raptor vs FX4. The FX4 boot is straight as seen in the pic. The raptor boot gets larger just outside the rack by about 1" so it will clear the heim. It definitely is binding but not the root cause.

 

[BAJASVT]

Is that the electronic steering rack? I don't believe it has the same stroke as the mechanical racks that come stock in Raptor.

Sorry if I missed it, but what tire/wheel combo are you running?

 

[Yukon Joe]

Good deal. The nut and shim idea is a good one.

The raptor tie rod boot is also tapered. Typically for the aftermarket tie rods, you have to cut the end of it off to fit over the heim.

Yukon Joe
www.RUNRAPTORRUN.com

 

[yoursmiledoc]

Is that the electronic steering rack? I don't believe it has the same stroke as the mechanical racks that come stock in Raptor.

Sorry if I missed it, but what tire/wheel combo are you running?

If it is a shorter stroke I will need th convert it over. It turned sharper before the swap so it should at least turn as sharp as before. I have factory FX4 wheels that are 45mm backspacing vs the stoock raptor wheels with 35mm backspacing.

I am buying some stock UCA's and I will be swapping them on just for the comparison. If that does not help I will try stock raptor tie rods. Eventually I will get it figured out.

This pic was the week before the suspension swap