Dream Build Lets all Collaborate!

[B E N]

2

Skip the heim ends, unless you plan on pulling them and servicing regularly. These WILL get dust in them and wear out, (they are a wear part anyway, but this is race car stuff) your much better off with traditional bushed style end, go poly if you want the rigidity. Also they will be noisy. If you were going long travel and using this truck only as a trail runner then maybe different.

 

[Milertimeraptor]

2

Skip the heim ends, unless you plan on pulling them and servicing regularly. These WILL get dust in them and wear out, (they are a wear part anyway, but this is race car stuff) your much better off with traditional bushed style end, go poly if you want the rigidity. Also they will be noisy. If you were going long travel and using this truck only as a trail runner then maybe different.

Do you know any UCA's that come with the bushed style, or just an upgrade after purchase? if so lets see an example that fits?
-I don't want to make all these modifications and just wish I had a LT suspension setup any LT kits out there as well? saw svc had one but is not on the website anymore...
-I would be working my way up with the svc mid travel kit with all these mods listed. Eventually getting the LCA's, axles, etc.
-Would I just want to go LT after that? almost feel like going all in on a LT suspension setup is better then doing it mid travel and wanting more later on?
The cantilever rear setup and a LT front wouldn't be too much more $$$ if I were to do it all at once im thinking...

 

[BlueOvalF22]

It's 7.59 inches of shock travel. Due to the motion ratio, aka lever effect, the shock travel is less than the actual wheel travel.

For a street and dirt dual use build ....

Rear deaver springs, SVC ABS, SVC traction bars, bypass rack or bolt ons stock rear shocks (bed use?)

Front Camburg tubular upper arms (poly bushing inboard pivots). 3.0 king coilovers.

 

[B E N]

Do you know any UCA's that come with the bushed style, or just an upgrade after purchase? if so lets see an example that fits?

Camburg, Baja Kits. You don't want to do it after the fact, the design of the UCA and is completely different.

 

[Jakenbake]

Something to keep in mind is how you intend on aligning the truck. I have my lower control arm pivot points locked out and have an upper arm with heims that serves as my castor/camber adjustments now.


As far as going from stock travel to mid travel to long travel, a lot of terms get thrown around. Stock track width and midtravel/long travel would be a better way to term it.

You can do a dual shock stock track width front and that could be a build it as you go kit. 3.0’s now, buy the control arms as you can, weld on the secondary tower and install the secondary bypass. Note that you coilover should get re-valved when you add the bypass. Add the other parts as necessary.

You won’t be able to build it as you go with a midtravel/long travel kit. If I remember correctly SVC’s mid travel pulls something like 15” up front with 4wd. A long travel front like HM for example pulls about the same, maybe 16”, if keeping 4wd and something closer to 20” if you lose 4wd. I assume the SVC mid travel will pull about the same if you dump 4wd.

Apples to apples would be comparing SVC’s bumpstop to RPG’s bumpstop. The RPG RST16 is comparable to Icon’s RXT system. Longer shocks but you can keep the bed.

Just need to decide how far you want to go and then you can pick what path you want to take.

Have you ridden in different setups to see what works well for your terrain? That would go a long way toward deciding what route to go.

 

[BlueOvalF22]

It's rather easy to lock in alignment.

Get some thick washers with an 18mm bore, basically want them tight to the bolt. When the bolts are out strip the paint off and etch the bare metal with phosphoric acid.

Then assemble it and take it to get aligned. When the alignment is good and you like it weld the washers in place with a couple of good tacks, short beads really. Don't weld 360 around the washer. Just enough to hold it and be easy to grind off to adjust it again.

The Camburg arms I have are equipped with grease zerks on poly bushings on the inboard. The same with the std width baja kits lowers. With that arm combo it is just one uniball upper and one uniball lower per front corner. These are actually easier to service than stock ball joints.

In the back I have all poly except for the front end heims of the SVC track bars. Those are easy to pop in and out to freshen.

On the rear leaf springs I'm working on replacing all bolts with zerked greasable bolts.

That's my ultimate daily driver rig for beach runs and salty boat ramps.

Get into H&M long travel fronts and stuff and you are starting to build a race truck that really needs a cage. In which case you should just start with a base F150 or just buy a built race truck and tow it to the dirt.

 

[B E N]

Well written @BlueOvalF22 I am with you. I would keep the raptor mild and easily serviced. If you want to go extreme start with a different platform.

 

[II Sevv]

OK FRF Family I'm trying to figure out the best route for some suspension upgrades. I've done "some" research and have a pretty good idea what I am thinking of upgrading. Kinda new with prerunner suspension setups so any advice / feedback would be killer.

Ok lets start with a numbered list so this doesn't get confusing... Please add the number of the topic you are talking/commenting about at the beginning of your comment so we all can stay on track easily.

1.Fox Racing Shox 3.0's
(front) FACTORY RACE 3.0 INTERNAL BYPASS COIL-OVER RESERVOIR SHOCK PAIR -ADJUSTABLE
(Rear) FACTORY RACE SERIES 3.0 EXTERNAL BYPASS QAB SHOCK (PAIR)
https://www.ridefox.com/subhome.php?m=truck&make=Ford&model=F-150+SVT+Raptor&year=2010&position=ALL

Question?: if I upgrade suspension travel later on would I need new shocks?

2.SVC Upper Control Arms
https://svcoffroad.com/collections/...nsion/products/2017-raptor-upper-control-arms

3. SVC Tie Rods
https://svcoffroad.com/collections/2010-2014-ford-raptor-suspension/products/gen-1-tie-rods

4.SVC Adjustable Bump System or RPG Off Roads RST16?
https://svcoffroad.com/collections/...on/products/svcoffroad-adjustable-bump-system
https://www.rpgoffroad.com/product/rst16/
- looks like the RST relocates the shocks for longer travel which is nice, but what if I were going to do a full bypass rack or relocate the shocks with another setup the svc ABS seems to be the way to go?
OR:
-Baja Kits cantilever system looks bad ass would love to do this eventually $$$(dreamin)
https://www.bajakits.com/i-26932356...lever-race-kit-rear.html?ref=category:1339646

5. Fox 2.5" Bump Stops
Question: Would I need a set for the front? Who makes the brackets or kits(front)? Only seeing 2.0's available on the fox website as well...

6. Deaver Springs
https://svcoffroad.com/collections/...ension/products/2010-14-raptor-deaver-springs
Question: +2 or +3? I don't want the back end higher then the front so assuming +2

So Far this is what i've been thinking for upgrades. I might be able to get a deal on the fox suspension parts so I would be ordering those separate. If not the case, then I would be considering a SVC suspension "kit".

Just for reference I have king coilovers, an Svc bypass rack, and icon rear bypasses with icon leaf springs.

I wouldn’t do a cantilever setup. There’s no point besides keeping bed space and the motion ratio of the shocks is all off. Ideally you want a 1:1 ratio of shock to axle movement which is why all 4 link setups tuck the shocks right up against the cap and mount them completely vertical. I also wouldn’t do an RPG RST kit unless you added triangulation or welded it to the frame. Because these trucks are leaf sprung there is a ton of axle movement side to side and front to back and the rpg kit sacrifices rigidity in the name of saving some space. The truck pulls so much more compression and droop travel in the rear with the bypass rack that I would never do stock replacement shocks again. I own a home remodeling company and use the truck for work and don’t even notice the bed space they take up.

I also wouldn’t buy Fox coilovers. They’re a 2.5 piston, not a 3.0, and the icons have a 3.0 piston while still being internal bypass and having a pretty well engineered bump zone. I absolutely love my icon bypasses but they don’t make the bedcage length ones anymore. I wanted icons and only bought kings because they were in stock and I wanted the finned reservoirs.

I have camburg’s uniball upper control arms with the poly bushings and love them, but the heim arms have the advantage of letting you weld shut the alignment slots on the lower control arm, and adjusting caster/camber with the helms. This keeps your alignment from being thrown off off-road. Other than that the heim arms really offer no advantage other than using a 1.5 uniball instead of a 1.25.

With stock width control arms up front, I wouldn’t do a front bump stop kit. Unless you crank your coilovers way up, the front has such little compression travel that you’ll be in the bump stop all the time.

I don’t know if I’d bother with aftermarket tie rods until you bend a stock one. I drive my truck pretty damn hard and also have heavy 37” KM3’s and my stock tie rods have been completely fine.

 

[II Sevv]

2

Skip the heim ends, unless you plan on pulling them and servicing regularly. These WILL get dust in them and wear out, (they are a wear part anyway, but this is race car stuff) your much better off with traditional bushed style end, go poly if you want the rigidity. Also they will be noisy. If you were going long travel and using this truck only as a trail runner then maybe different.

Heim ends are no louder or harder to maintain than the uniballs that BOTH the heim and bushing arms come with. I have 10,000 miles on my camburg arms including a lot of hard off-roading and have had to do no service other than lubing them every so often when they get loud.

 

[II Sevv]

Something to keep in mind is how you intend on aligning the truck. I have my lower control arm pivot points locked out and have an upper arm with heims that serves as my castor/camber adjustments now.


As far as going from stock travel to mid travel to long travel, a lot of terms get thrown around. Stock track width and midtravel/long travel would be a better way to term it.

You can do a dual shock stock track width front and that could be a build it as you go kit. 3.0’s now, buy the control arms as you can, weld on the secondary tower and install the secondary bypass. Note that you coilover should get re-valved when you add the bypass. Add the other parts as necessary.

You won’t be able to build it as you go with a midtravel/long travel kit. If I remember correctly SVC’s mid travel pulls something like 15” up front with 4wd. A long travel front like HM for example pulls about the same, maybe 16”, if keeping 4wd and something closer to 20” if you lose 4wd. I assume the SVC mid travel will pull about the same if you dump 4wd.

Apples to apples would be comparing SVC’s bumpstop to RPG’s bumpstop. The RPG RST16 is comparable to Icon’s RXT system. Longer shocks but you can keep the bed.

Just need to decide how far you want to go and then you can pick what path you want to take.

Have you ridden in different setups to see what works well for your terrain? That would go a long way toward deciding what route to go.

The mid and long travel kits are not the same and are not capable of the same amount of controlled travel. The mid travel kits like SVC are meant for the people who just want something plug and play. Stock coil bucket, stock length shocks, reversible. Then you have kits in the middle like the Baja kits kit that ditches the coil bucket in favor of a shock hoop and it runs 10” shocks instead of the stock length. On the long travel end you have kits like the HM or Blitzkrieg long travel kits that are wider, completely do away with the stock upper control arm mounts, stock coil bucket, and do best with an engine cage