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[BlueOvalF22]

I

I personally don’t see the point of a secondary bypass up front, if a mid or long travel kit is an option for you. I currently have 3.0’s up front in my truck, and what would make the most difference for what I use it for would be more travel not just more damping.

A big help is a real bump upfront even with stock arms. Take that rubber off your coil over shaft and let the king, fox or icon 2.0 bump stops handle that task.

 

[Jakenbake]

The upper arm mounts are not moved. The long travel part is the shock mount since longer 10" shocks fit in the new shock tower and both are located inside the upper A arm. The bolt on mid kits and dual shock standard width all have the bypass shock outside the hoop of the UCA.

Baja kits does indeed offer a standard width lower control arm. Theirs has poly bushings instead of heims.

Another option is Blitzkrieg

They have both bolt on mid and weld on long as well. The lower arms have poly bushings.

https://blitzkriegoffroad.com/colle...or-4wd-long-travel-kit?variant=14609970495530

I was trying to clarify what you were calling a mid and and long travel since you mentioned cutting the coil bucket off made it a long travel and that kit in the thread cuts the coil bucket off.

Either way I’m not sure it matters too much. If you talk to an F150 guy the raptor is probably a mid travel to them and anything wider would be a long travel.

 

[Jakenbake]

I

I personally don’t see the point of a secondary bypass up front, if a mid or long travel kit is an option for you. I currently have 3.0’s up front in my truck, and what would make the most difference for what I use it for would be more travel not just more damping.

All I can point out is what others have had to say, as this is one setup I never got a chance to ride in yet. A secondary stock track width is a balanced setup when combined with a bypass rack in the rear. If mid travel/long travel is paired with a bypass rack setup then the rear can’t keep up with the front.

One big advantage that the secondary would offer over a single coilover is the ability to tune the secondary bypass up front.

Having said that, and as I mentioned before, I would have some hesitation fully building a stock front, paying nearly the same price in parts, and still have ball joints. That is when I could get a mid travel/long travel for a few grand more (parts).

Throughout reading I still have yet to be able to find what truly makes a setup balanced. I’m sure it is a combination of travel, damping capacity, weight distribution, other.

 

[B E N]

Ideally you want a 1:1 ratio of shock to axle movement

No. Trailing arm setups don't work this way, independent setups don't work this way. About the only system that works this way is a solid axle with a shock mounted directly to it. Even the stock rear uses an angle in the shock. Pretty much every manufacturer since the dawn of the shock absorber has mounted them at an angle to package more travel in a limited space.

You can use the angle of the shock to modify its behavior. Its the exact same as running a trailing arm setup where the shock is on the trailing arm instead of the axle. The closer to vertical the shock is, the more control it has, but also less axle travel. You can make up for the lack of control via valving. The shock doesn't care what angle it is at. Yes the velocities will be higher and fluid will get more heat into it but if the shock can handle it your good to go.

Shock angle effect on control
100 X COS(angle) = % efficiency.

So a shock at 45° is still 70.7% efficient.

The efficiency will change as the shock angle changes, you can use the change of angle of the shock through the sweep of suspension travel to alter damping behavior. But the suspension system has to be well designed.

 

[II Sevv]

1. UCA's NOT MOVED or widened. The whole shock bucket gets cut out.
2. No fabrication required. It's installation by welding not fabrication.
3. UCA tabs and bolts are left in place and used to align the new upper shock mount.

#3 is what makes it the easiest to install long travel.

The UCA is no different in the spacing between the mounting points. It does extend 2" further out and they made the arm rectangle shape instead of V shape to get both shocks to fit.

A kit like Blitz does relocate the UCA mounts because they designed it to run a 4.0 bypass. Also, notice the UCA is what hits the bumpstop?

The Blitzkrieg kit is what I was thinking of

 

[BlueOvalF22]

This one is baja kits long up front and a spring under rear with bypass rack

Getting 4ft of air at 08:22

 

[elMechanic]

OK FRF Family I'm trying to figure out the best route for some suspension upgrades. I've done "some" research and have a pretty good idea what I am thinking of upgrading. Kinda new with prerunner suspension setups so any advice / feedback would be killer.

Ok lets start with a numbered list so this doesn't get confusing... Please add the number of the topic you are talking/commenting about at the beginning of your comment so we all can stay on track easily.

1.Fox Racing Shox 3.0's
(front) FACTORY RACE 3.0 INTERNAL BYPASS COIL-OVER RESERVOIR SHOCK PAIR -ADJUSTABLE
(Rear) FACTORY RACE SERIES 3.0 EXTERNAL BYPASS QAB SHOCK (PAIR)
https://www.ridefox.com/subhome.php?m=truck&make=Ford&model=F-150+SVT+Raptor&year=2010&position=ALL

Question?: if I upgrade suspension travel later on would I need new shocks?

2.SVC Upper Control Arms
https://svcoffroad.com/collections/...nsion/products/2017-raptor-upper-control-arms

3. SVC Tie Rods
https://svcoffroad.com/collections/2010-2014-ford-raptor-suspension/products/gen-1-tie-rods

4.SVC Adjustable Bump System or RPG Off Roads RST16?
https://svcoffroad.com/collections/...on/products/svcoffroad-adjustable-bump-system
https://www.rpgoffroad.com/product/rst16/
- looks like the RST relocates the shocks for longer travel which is nice, but what if I were going to do a full bypass rack or relocate the shocks with another setup the svc ABS seems to be the way to go?
OR:
-Baja Kits cantilever system looks bad ass would love to do this eventually $$$(dreamin)
https://www.bajakits.com/i-26932356...lever-race-kit-rear.html?ref=category:1339646

5. Fox 2.5" Bump Stops
Question: Would I need a set for the front? Who makes the brackets or kits(front)? Only seeing 2.0's available on the fox website as well...

6. Deaver Springs
https://svcoffroad.com/collections/...ension/products/2010-14-raptor-deaver-springs
Question: +2 or +3? I don't want the back end higher then the front so assuming +2

So Far this is what i've been thinking for upgrades. I might be able to get a deal on the fox suspension parts so I would be ordering those separate. If not the case, then I would be considering a SVC suspension "kit".

1. I still have the OEM shocks, but once I decide to upgrade to 3.0s I will go with King 3.0s as the Fox 3.0s actually have a 2.5" piston

2. I don't know about the SVC UCAs, however, from what I have searched, GENERALLY, it's better to get UCAs with bushing rather than HEIMs, so I went with BajaKits UCA.

3. with regards to the SVC Tie rods, I already have them installed a couple of days ago, and with the very short experience of them, they are way better than the stock ones, would recommend them for sure

4. same here, installed SVC adjustable bump stop kit (with king 2.5" bump stops) 2 days ago, still didn't have the time to check their capabilities, but from what I have read through different threads, they are awesome. especially with having the option to change the height of them depending on your use (offroading/towing).

6. I went with +3 Deavers, added an extra 1" to the stock ride, but I did install the EIBACH Springs instead of the OEM coils on the OEM shock (until I decide to move to 3.0" King shocks), and it's level. however, from what I understood, is if you upgrade the Shocks to 3.0" it will get leveled as well (someone corrects me on that if I am mistaken)

If you are planning to go Mid Travel, let's say the SVC Bolt-On MT Kit, you cannot buy parts separately every time, you need to buy the whole Mid Travel kit at once, as the OEM shocks won't fit (SVC have them custom made with some stuff, don't remember which parts) and the Tie Rods in the MT kit comes in a different size than the one they sell (OEM replacement Tie Rod) .. so basically they have 2 sizes of tie rods, OEM replacement and MT compatible one. (All of this I got from SVC directly, when I asked them about it a few weeks ago, as I was planning to do the same, upgrade certain parts every while until I complete the full SVC MT Kit, but that doesn't work)

I don't know anything about RPG parts/kits, sorry.

 

[BlueOvalF22]

1. I still have the OEM shocks, but once I decide to upgrade to 3.0s I will go with King 3.0s as the Fox 3.0s actually have a 2.5" piston

2. I don't know about the SVC UCAs, however, from what I have searched, GENERALLY, it's better to get UCAs with bushing rather than HEIMs, so I went with BajaKits UCA.

3. with regards to the SVC Tie rods, I already have them installed a couple of days ago, and with the very short experience of them, they are way better than the stock ones, would recommend them for sure

4. same here, installed SVC adjustable bump stop kit (with king 2.5" bump stops) 2 days ago, still didn't have the time to check their capabilities, but from what I have read through different threads, they are awesome. especially with having the option to change the height of them depending on your use (offroading/towing).

6. I went with +3 Deavers, added an extra 1" to the stock ride, but I did install the EIBACH Springs instead of the OEM coils on the OEM shock (until I decide to move to 3.0" King shocks), and it's level. however, from what I understood, is if you upgrade the Shocks to 3.0" it will get leveled as well (someone corrects me on that if I am mistaken)

If you are planning to go Mid Travel, let's say the SVC Bolt-On MT Kit, you cannot buy parts separately every time, you need to buy the whole Mid Travel kit at once, as the OEM shocks won't fit (SVC have them custom made with some stuff, don't remember which parts) and the Tie Rods in the MT kit comes in a different size than the one they sell (OEM replacement Tie Rod) .. so basically they have 2 sizes of tie rods, OEM replacement and MT compatible one. (All of this I got from SVC directly, when I asked them about it a few weeks ago, as I was planning to do the same, upgrade certain parts every while until I complete the full SVC MT Kit, but that doesn't work)

I don't know anything about RPG parts/kits, sorry.

I don't see shackles on there...

When it comes to the rear springs and shackles..

If you aren't sure if +3 is going to be too high, I would still get +3 deavers. If you wish it sat like the +2 after you have them installed then just get a longer shackle. If it's just right looking to you with the +3 height-wise I would get an std length shackle.

I've actually got a certain shop's guys used +3 deavers and then went with SVC shackles.

I just got the bolt and bushing kit from deaver and cleaned up the springs.

New hardware and well-lubed poly bushings in both ends of the spring and the shackle. So I tighten the leaf and shackle hardware down to OEM specs BEFORE I bolt up the axle with the U-bolts.

Then I back off the hardware what usually ends up being about 1/4-1/2 turn.. The goal is to back off enough to eliminate bind, you will still have some friction but it is more than possible to back them off just enough that it's a lot more limber and there isn't any slop in it either.

Try lifting the spring up and down by hand at OEM torque and then try after backing the hardware off a touch. A huge difference.

I've never had a problem doing this on any truck or even leaf spring trailer, with good lock nuts it's no problem.

 

[dillard09]

I have pretty much exactly the setup you listed on your first post. It rides great both on and off road for what i need it for. Weekend warrior basically. Not a guy that is high speed in the dirt all the time but do hit it occasionally. So I wanted something serviceable and not custom. I also have the Foutz weld in slot delete to lock the lowers to match with my SVC billet UCA. Worked great so far. I have had the Deaver +3 in the rear since 2018 and they have sagged a bit. I have only about 1/2" preload on my front Coilovers and I sit close to level but put any weight in the bed and im nose up. So my 37 KM3s do rub and I try not to hit anything with speed while turning to keep my stock front fenders. Will upgrade to some aftermarket fenders sometime in the near future.
I think you need to look at what you want your end goal to be and start building towards that. Buy once cry once. If you buy all this stock location stuff and then turn around and do a MT/LT someday you will lose money. I don't like to waste money.

 

[elMechanic]

I don't see shackles on there...

When it comes to the rear springs and shackles..

If you aren't sure if +3 is going to be too high, I would still get +3 deavers. If you wish it sat like the +2 after you have them installed then just get a longer shackle. If it's just right looking to you with the +3 height-wise I would get an std length shackle.

I've actually got a certain shop's guys used +3 deavers and then went with SVC shackles.

I just got the bolt and bushing kit from deaver and cleaned up the springs.

New hardware and well-lubed poly bushings in both ends of the spring and the shackle. So I tighten the leaf and shackle hardware down to OEM specs BEFORE I bolt up the axle with the U-bolts.

Then I back off the hardware what usually ends up being about 1/4-1/2 turn.. The goal is to back off enough to eliminate bind, you will still have some friction but it is more than possible to back them off just enough that it's a lot more limber and there isn't any slop in it either.

Try lifting the spring up and down by hand at OEM torque and then try after backing the hardware off a touch. A huge difference.

I've never had a problem doing this on any truck or even leaf spring trailer, with good lock nuts it's no problem.

Oh sorry I forgot that, I did install the SVC shackles as well, they are stock height so no extra droop. better quality than the stock ones

I shared all the parts installed and before and after pictures of the truck HERE