DIY - Stock Raptor 2.5 Shock Rebuild.

[m3dragon]

Went through and revamped DIY PDF'S.

I will work on the form postings more as I wanted to add images. Some of the order of things have been tweaked as we have done more shocks we have found the GOT YA areas.

The biggest issue we are seeing is bleeder screws on the end caps. The dam buggers get stuck in there and you can't get them out. Nothing works as we have tried any and all ideas from heat to taps. Lost a few tools in the process. Issue is metal gets corroded to the aluminum bodies of the shock and the part is so small and weak it get hosed. Prob why fox has the parts so cheap.

 

[MTUH3]

I noticed the same thing on mine....

 

[Deletedone]

So I believe that I created a workaround for the "stripped allen bleeder screw problem", and I wanted to run it by you guys just to make sure I didn't screw anything up.
If you fill up the shock with fluid so that the fluid is at the very top of the bypass body, you can install the ifp without getting any air below it (you will lose some fluid due to spillage, but place the shock over a pan to collect most of it). Next step is to set the level of the ifp to 4.75" (from top of bypass body to lower level of IFP), once that is done fill the main body up to the very top with shock fluid so that when you screw in the main body end cap it will displace about .75" of fluid and so now the IFP is set at 4" below the bypass body. This method does not allow any air into the system because the endcaps edges are under the fluid when they are installed. I tested it with the one shock that I did not strip the screws out and no air came out when I bled the system afterwards. The only problem that I think I have is the 4" measurement from the top of bypass body to bottom of piston(with the shock shaft fully extended). I need clarification on if that is the right measurement, or if it would be better to measure the distance between the top of the ifp to the bottom of the snap ring with the shock shaft fully pressed in (4mm?). So are my shocks ok like that or, do I need to redo the process to ensure that I am at 4mm from the snap ring? Thanks in advance! Also, it would be nice to know if the 4" measurement is to the top of the ifp or the deepest part?

 

[m3dragon]

JROCKZ24

Sounds like that worked, I am not a expert so someone else might say no.

As we found out, FOX does not make a MM buffer on the raptor shocks. Meaning the IFPs are up against the stops. Not sure why they do this but we have all agreed we should add a bit of spacing.

The 4mm is from top down. Meaning if the IFP is at the top most location, push down.

I will hope to make a video on a rebuild here shortly. I have been under the weather so have not been over do it.

 

[no1]

...

 

[m3dragon]

I got new seals today and notes one big difference. Last time i ordered seals from Schmidty Racing and now from shockseals.com like mentioned in this thread. Difference is that you get new wear band's with seals, Schmidty Racing seal set comes without wear bands which should definitely be there. So lesson learned, follow thread and you are good to go

LOL We have done a few and share what we find. One other thing about using the kit we found is as you said, no wear band, also some of the seals are different design. Not saying one is better but the kit we use seems to be the easiest.

 

[Yukon Joe]

.

When it comes time to rebuild the 3.0 and 3.5's I run, we will do another write up with how to set those.

Starting to get things together to rebuild the rear Fox 3.0's with @Hole Shot. Have you done yours yet?

I am assuming we'll need simular tools as mentioned in the first post.



Vote for your favorite pic
http://www.fordraptorforum.com/f18/january-2017-calendar-vote-46906/
@Yukon Joe
Delta Lead
www.runraptorrun.com

 

[m3dragon]

Starting to get things together to rebuild the rear Fox 3.0's with @Hole Shot. Have you done yours yet?

I am assuming we'll need simular tools as mentioned in the first post.



Vote for your favorite pic
http://www.fordraptorforum.com/f18/january-2017-calendar-vote-46906/
@Yukon Joe
Delta Lead
Run Raptor Run | Great Lakes Raptor Excursions (GLRE)

Based on all the info I have found, the process should be exactly the same. The major thing different is the "pre-set" of the bypass.

When you take it apart, measure how deep the bypass is set to. If it is FLUSH to the body, see if you can find what the set depth is.

Other than the set depth the rebuild should be the same

 

[Hole Shot]

Mine are out and leaking so I'll get to making the tools and reading this thread since I'm
Stuck in a hotel for a couple weeks. I'm also considering Powdercoating the bodies and maybe reanodizing the caps at home for a more custom look. The Powdercoat should
Hold up better than the zink coating.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[m3dragon]

If you guys need to call while building let me know and I will PM my number. Helped a few builds by phone as it is faster (obviously).

Also before you rebuild them, check to see if you can loosen bleeder screws. If they do not easily brake loose you might have to get new caps before build. That is the biggest _($*&#(*$&)#&(*%*)%#_#% we are now running into.