Dead battery

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FordTechOne

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Process of elimination! Thanks. Learned my lesson, especially after paying $550 to replace the battery in my Touareg 3 times. 2005 V8 loaded with 28142 miles, which sits in my garage.

Anyway, I connected Raptor to one of my trickle chargers. It showed that the battery was fully charged. About 2 hours after disconnecting, I got the same warning from the Ford app on my phone that it disabled remote features on the car once again due to low battery power. Perhaps, when they "fixed" my rear camera issue, they broke something else via firmware update. I will take it to the dealership once again.

When the battery is replaced, a Battery Monitoring System reset must be performed to reset the Battery State of Charge. Check your repair order, if that procedure wasn’t performed, you will continue to get warnings because the system will believe that the original discharged battery is still installed.
 

Mister Pinky

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When the battery is replaced, a Battery Monitoring System reset must be performed to reset the Battery State of Charge. Check your repair order, if that procedure wasn’t performed, you will continue to get warnings because the system will believe that the original discharged battery is still installed.

Does the Battery Monitoring System affect the rate in which the charging system charges the battery, or is it purely a warning? I’m assuming this reset has to be done with the factory scan tool? @FordTechOne

I remember BMWs being famous for burning out new batteries if the ECM was not reset, hence my concern.
 

FordTechOne

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Does the Battery Monitoring System affect the rate in which the charging system charges the battery, or is it purely a warning? I’m assuming this reset has to be done with the factory scan tool? @FordTechOne

I remember BMWs being famous for burning out new batteries if the ECM was not reset, hence my concern.

Yes, the procedure is carried out using IDS. ForScan May also be able to perform the procedure.

The BMS is used by the BCM for electrical system power management. Nothing states that it’s related to charging. The PCM determines charging system operation using the generator current sensor.
 

Biggwrm

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When the battery is replaced, a Battery Monitoring System reset must be performed to reset the Battery State of Charge. Check your repair order, if that procedure wasn’t performed, you will continue to get warnings because the system will believe that the original discharged battery is still installed.
They told me the same thing as they were swapping it, if they didnt do the reset I can continue to get errors or draining. Plus they check for draws.

Writer said the recent batteries they have been having bad cell problems. He was surprised he had a 800cca in stock. Dont know if that means the raptor battery is different then F150s. Like H6 vs our h7s.

side note, when I jumped the truck, I heard a pop by driver kickpanel. Anyone have any ideas? Sounded like a fuse pop but doesn’t seem to be fuses around there..
 

Flash1034

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I think the OEM batteries are shit. Mine lasted about 2 years then shit the bed. With the truck that new, I'd have them just swap it out on warranty. I think the warranty on the battery is 2 years? Anyway, I went ahead and got a yellow top optima battery, a bit smaller in size than the oem but it is a hell of a battery.



Optima batteries suck. Go with an AGM instead of a spiral cell battery.
I3IgHndyHtYZIPv2zEB1u4Pa-H2DKWGI4zxk8Rtsk3W8=w2400.jpg
Optima batteries suck. Go with an AGM instead of a spiral cell battery
 

BroncoAZ

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I think the OEM batteries are shit. Mine lasted about 2 years then shit the bed. With the truck that new, I'd have them just swap it out on warranty. I think the warranty on the battery is 2 years? Anyway, I went ahead and got a yellow top optima battery, a bit smaller in size than the oem but it is a hell of a battery.

I3IgHndyHtYZIPv2zEB1u4Pa-H2DKWGI4zxk8Rtsk3W8=w2400.jpg

Optima batteries were amazing in the mid 1990’s to about 2006 when they lasted seemingly forever, then their quality went to hell. My last Optima was a group 31 yellow top to run the ARB fridge in my sedan. I used the Ctek on it monthly and drove the car frequently, but the $370 yellow top was dead in 14 months. This was the fourth Optima I had fail prematurely. I’ll never buy another Optima.

I don't know much about the ford battery but it's under warranty until 3 year 36k I believe. When you are tired of dealing with that nonsense on an 80k truck, I highly recommend upgrading to an AGM battery specifically one with a good warranty so if you get a "dud" you can get a brand new one. I found a great AGM called X2 Power Premium and its at a company called Batteries and Bulbs. Great battery with a 5 year warranty. Cant beat 5 year.

I purchased my last Optima from Batteries + Bulbs. The owner of my local store said he had so many problems with Optima he was hesitant to order me another and offered me 100% of the purchase price towards an X2 Power AGM battery. This thing is a beast and well worth the cost of entry for the Group 31. I never have to worry about my fridge cutting out and spoiling my week’s worth of meals.

I may end up with a second battery in the Raptor for the fridge, it would certainly be an X2 Power AGM.
 

nikhsub1

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IIRC the optima has a 3 year warranty so whatever, I'm good with that. Been great so far, no more low battery warnings from my dashcam etc.
 

BroncoAZ

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IIRC the optima has a 3 year warranty so whatever, I'm good with that. Been great so far, no more low battery warnings from my dashcam etc.

I’m glad it’s working for you, but a 3 year warranty isn’t much good when it dies without warning in the backcountry. The Group 31 are only a 2 year warranty. Mine died without warning and cost me a week’s worth of meals on a business trip.

The pre 2006 Optimas used to last 6-8 years without issue, now I haven’t had one of my last four make it through the warranty.
 

wheelman55

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Agree on the X2 Power batte
Optima batteries were amazing in the mid 1990’s to about 2006 when they lasted seemingly forever, then their quality went to hell. My last Optima was a group 31 yellow top to run the ARB fridge in my sedan. I used the Ctek on it monthly and drove the car frequently, but the $370 yellow top was dead in 14 months. This was the fourth Optima I had fail prematurely. I’ll never buy another Optima.



I purchased my last Optima from Batteries + Bulbs. The owner of my local store said he had so many problems with Optima he was hesitant to order me another and offered me 100% of the purchase price towards an X2 Power AGM battery. This thing is a beast and well worth the cost of entry for the Group 31. I never have to worry about my fridge cutting out and spoiling my week’s worth of meals.

I may end up with a second battery in the Raptor for the fridge, it would certainly be an X2 Power AGM.
Agree on the X2 Power batteries. I’ve been using them for six years in two vehicles, including the dual battery with ARB in my ‘93 F250.

Awesome batteries.
 
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