Cylinder 8 misfire engine light

[MTF]

Yeah, I mention header leak and O2 sensor.
I didn't think of checking rear O2 if the cat failed and got crap stuck on the rear one.
Usually lean or lazy codes pop up too.

With this stuff a good OBD11 scanner is helpful or full data log would help.
You can see the temps of the cats, it would tell you right away if the temps are way off between both banks.
Some aftermarket cats are iffy.

 

[BRAPPPP]

Yeah, I mention header leak and O2 sensor.
I didn't think of checking rear O2 if the cat failed and got crap stuck on the rear one.
Usually lean or lazy codes pop up too.

With this stuff a good OBD11 scanner is helpful or full data log would help.
You can see the temps of the cats, it would tell you right away if the temps are way off between both banks.
Some aftermarket cats are iffy.

Yeah i was told that these american racing cats could be iffy... The 02 sensors are plugged in and look fine from the outside.. I banged on the cats and it didnt sound like crap was broken and floating around in there... I guess the only way to see is to pop the y pipe off. But like you said i would get a rich/lean code...

I didnt completley disconnect battery when i updated tune. never heard of that before but i can give that a try as well.

 

[MTF]

A battery disconnect for 15 to 20 minutes is the correct way to clear K.A.M.
Just flashing the PCM does remove the DTCs but doesn't always clear all pending and permanent error codes.
Plus a battery disconnect forces the PCM to start a whole new learning cycle, even though a flash should do the same thing.

I think it was JDM that said that some of those cats are a spun wovening mesh so you wouldn't hear anything. And can clog the O2 and clog the muffler.
Their not like the Kooks Green cats or the stock ones that are honey comded hard material.

 

[BRAPPPP]

A battery disconnect for 15 to 20 minutes is the correct way to clear K.A.M.
Just flashing the PCM does remove the DTCs but doesn't always clear all pending and permanent error codes.
Plus a battery disconnect forces the PCM to start a whole new learning cycle, even though a flash should do the same thing.

I think it was JDM that said that some of those cats are a spun wovening mesh so you wouldn't hear anything. And can clog the O2 and clog the muffler.
Their not like the Kooks Green cats or the stock ones that are honey comded hard material.

Hmm well I think I'm going to disconnect battery completely and reflash and during that time drop the y pipe and look inside the cats to see if they have been damaged. Also take my battery to auto zone at same time to have voltage checked.

 

[MTF]

You only need to disconnect the ground.

Heres the thing with a SC Raptor, the circulator pump for the HE and intercooler runs automatically when the key is on to run position.
That pump draws quite a few amps, and if your battery is low to begain with, you get what I'm saying.

Even with the X4 I've run into glitches.
The only way I successfully got the Tune installed right was hooking up a battery tender, then flash back to stock and disconnect the battery for 15 mins.
Then reattach the ground, hook up the battery tender and flash the SC Tune and then disconnect the battery again.
Make sure no electrical stuff is on, nothing! Make sure your alarm won't set!!!

I've also gone as far as to remove the Tune from the SCT device and reloaded it, just so it gets formated to the latest update from SCT.

These are some of the basic troubleshooting schemes you would do if you called SCT for tech support.

The first few 50 miles is also key, you need to set the drive cycle, best I found so far is to drive reasonable.
Get some street driving in and then go do three decels on the highway or a street where you can decel from 70 to 60 down to 40 to 30 with no braking just let it coast as long as possible.
You don't want to let it just idle forever but it takes about 3 to 5 mins to start the setting the long fuel TRIMS. I usually give a little bump in gas now and then up to 1,500 rpms to get the fuel TRIMS learning.
An good OBD11 scanner comes in handy for watching things progress.

If you don't get 50 miles in the first day don't worry an 8 hr. Vehicle clock shut down is also required.
Once you check that all sensors are ready. Then you can play.
Now you don't need to do all of this but it will take a lot longer to get the PCM to finish all the testing and get a ready status.

 

[BRAPPPP]

You only need to disconnect the ground.

Heres the thing with a SC Raptor, the circulator pump for the HE and intercooler runs automatically when the key is on to run position.
That pump draws quite a few amps, and if your battery is low to begain with, you get what I'm saying.

Even with the X4 I've run into glitches.
The only way I successfully got the Tune installed right was hooking up a battery tender, then flash back to stock and disconnect the battery for 15 mins.
Then reattach the ground, hook up the battery tender and flash the SC Tune and then disconnect the battery again.
Make sure no electrical stuff is on, nothing! Make sure your alarm won't set!!!

I've also gone as far as to remove the Tune from the SCT device and reloaded it, just so it gets formated to the latest update from SCT.

These are some of the basic troubleshooting schemes you would do if you called SCT for tech support.

The first few 50 miles is also key, you need to set the drive cycle, best I found so far is to drive reasonable.
Get some street driving in and then go do three decels on the highway or a street where you can decel from 70 to 60 down to 40 to 30 with no braking just let it coast as long as possible.
You want to let it just idle but it takes about 3 to 5 mins to start the setting the long fuel TRIMS. I usually give a little bump in gas now and then up to 1,500 rpms to get the fuel TRIMS learning.
An good OBD11 scanner comes in handy for watching things progress.

If you don't get 50 miles in the first day don't worry an 8 hr. Vehicle clock shut down is also required.
Once you check that all sensors are ready. Then you can play.
Now you don't need to do all of this but it will take a lot longer to get the PCM to finish all the testing and get a ready status.

Ok I will try this procedure. Should I get new battery as well? I've had problems in past with truck drawing energy from battery and causing me to have random dead batteries in morning. I've actually replaced my battery twice and I'm only at 55k

 

[MTF]

Not sure get it tested if can.
I'm really liking the Odessy AGM battery 930 CCA!!!!!!!!
I watch a whole DVD and charge my phone and laptop, without worrying about the battery.

 

[BRAPPPP]

Not sure get it tested if can.
I'm really liking the Odessy AGM battery 930 CCA!!!!!!!!
I watch a whole DVD and charge my phone and laptop, without worrying about the battery.

Do you run aftermarket interior/exterior LED bulbs? I am and for some reason they flicker and tend to have a dim glow even when truck is off and that can be what is draining battery.

 

[MTF]

LEDs can be an issue if there isn't the proper resistance.
There are plenty of threads in the lighting section.

 

[BRAPPPP]

If I buy new battery do I need to use battery tender. I don't have one of those.