Black widow suspension set up

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Kanakry

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Great write up Greg!

I love that the icons can go from soft for street driving to Offroad settings in a few minutes with no tools.
 
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Squatting Dog

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I am trying to put the money I have spent and in some cases wasted to good use. By helping others avoid making expensive bad decisions just based on marketing hype.

I know I am putting myself out there for criticism on my choices and set up. So let me say right here, what works for me,my Raptor and environment may or may not work for everyone. It is your truck and your right to do what you want to it.

Suspension has always been a personal subjective subject.. So I am trying to keep "feelings" out of it as much as possible and present more empirical evidence/data of my last year of upgrades.

Plus, to report what the end user has to gain/lose for certain mods without being bedazzled marketing mumbo jumbo. Real world experiences..

As far as my experience with shocks has been the same with engines..

There is NO replacement for displacement.

Shock absorbers provide controlled, predictable deceleration. These products work by converting kinetic energy to thermal energy. More specifically, motion applied to the piston of a hydraulic shock absorber pressurizes the fluid and forces it to flow through restricting orifices, causing the fluid to heat rapidly. The thermal energy is then transferred to the cylinder body and harmlessly dissipated to the atmosphere. The more fluid and heat the shock can displace the more effective the shock.. Plain and simply!

The larger a shock is in diameter, the larger its bore can be. The bore is the diameter of the piston and the inside diameter of the pressure tube. The larger the piston’s diameter, the larger its surface area. Since pressure is force divided by area, it stands to reason that the larger the area, the smaller the pressure generated by a given force. Inside a shock, the lower the pressure, the lower the temperature. In addition, a larger diameter shock can contain more oil to absorb and dissipate the heat generated, resulting in reduced internal operating temperatures for a given force. The result is, the larger the shock diameter, the cooler it will run and therefore the harder the shock can be worked before fading.

-Greg
 
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BlackMamba

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Greg, apologies if I missed it, but are you still running nationals and RPG bump stop kit in the rear? If so, did you do anything to the ICON's to account for the leafs?
 
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Squatting Dog

Squatting Dog

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Greg, apologies if I missed it, but are you still running nationals and RPG bump stop kit in the rear? If so, did you do anything to the ICON's to account for the leafs?

Yes, I am still running both...As far as adjusting the ICONs for nationals, I didn't change anything. If I need to make adjustments to compression or rebound on the ICONs it is simple to do..

I did noticed when jumping some train tracks that I need to drop the pressure on bump stop kit. Because during 65mph jump the truck donkey kicked really bad as the bump stops rebounded uncontrollably.. That was running the rear shocks at stock settings.. I talked to bluesti and wiz1500 and adjusted them to their settings and it is much better..

-Greg
 

BIRDMAN

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How much do you have to trim off the spring bucket and rear shock mount? I have seen pics but it's hard to tell a relative size.

Sent from my thumbs using Tapatalk 2
 
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Squatting Dog

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How much do you have to trim off the spring bucket and rear shock mount? I have seen pics but it's hard to tell a relative size.

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Very minimal the coil bucket was half of a dime to nickel size relief to clear reservoir hose.

The rear hangers WSI relieved about quarter of an inch.. And it is really difficult to notice. I will get pictures during the day.

I was leary of cutting and grinding on coil bucket and shock mounts that is why I had WSI do it.. And I am glad I had him do it, because I would have just notched it out. WSI said any sharp angles would cause stress cracks, to do a smooth radius to stop any cracks from forming.

Since I smacked the heck out of driver side lower mount enough to bend it. I talked to him about making some gussets to strengthen up the rear shock mounts. Again not something that is required, but seeing how bad i messed up stock ones, it brings piece of mind..


-Greg
 
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Squatting Dog

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Initial drive to work with ICON shocks..

For the last 18 months I have been driving the same route in a Raptor.. 7 months in a 2011 SCab with stock suspension and stock perch. And 11 months in a 2012 SCrew at top perch..

All I can say is wow.. For a large body shock, the on road feel is simply amazing. It is refined without pogo feeling of top perch, and soft like stock without dive and sloppiness. Very impressive that ICON can keep "softness" with larger piston without harshness or sloppiness on the road!

-Greg
 
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Squatting Dog

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Initial drive to work with ICON shocks..

For the last 18 months I have been driving the same route in a Raptor.. 7 months in a 2011 SCab with stock suspension and stock perch. And 11 months in a 2012 SCrew at top perch..

All I can say is wow.. For a large body shock, the on road feel is simply amazing. It is refined without pogo feeling of top perch, and soft like stock without dive and sloppiness. Very impressive that ICON can keep "softness" with larger piston without harshness or sloppiness on the road! The nasty rolling gallop that the 2012 SCrew has that the SCab did not have is also gone..

-Greg

Oops


-Greg
 
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justvettn

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Just by changing out the rears with ICON's got rid of that annoying rolling gallop, I felt like a human bobble head going down the highway.
 
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