Best intake and tuner for 1st Gen

[deadlysilent]

My understanding of the plastic box with the 6.2 on it is that it is a sort of resonator, baffle to help reduce intake noise.

Good to know. I’ve seen aftermarket intakes delete it and mine doesn’t, curious if there is any effect to the efficiency of the intake other than just the sound. Possibly a little more restrictive or something?

 

[Jonny V]

I'm running an S&B intake, which deletes the factory resonator, and yep, it now howls like an old school tunnel ram when you romp on it. Great FUN! Would recommend it to anyone!!

 

[Canuck714]

May want to search it, but I think there was a dyno report that showed zero HP gain by removing stock intake over a CAI. Back in the day when the Ferd engineers used to come on here, pretty sure they stated the stock intake could support upto 500hp without a loss of flow. The need for more air arises when you get into forced induction..
If I could, I would be running a closed box drawing cold outside air VS. a CAI that sucks hot underhood air..lol

 

[RaptorN/Abuild]

S&b or airaiad with livernios tune

 

[truckarl]

I'm very pleased with the quality and performance of S&B intake.

 

[New Nick at JDM]

https://www.teamjdm.com/2010-2014-6-2l-raptor-performance-upgrade-stage-1/

 

[Patriot Raptor]

^^^That oversized throttle body has cost you real world driveability.

Could you expand on that please? Always ready to learn something new!

 

[MTF]

That BBK Throttle Body does nothing for power gains and does not work well on a Raptor, plenty of posts about that.

 

[Ruger]

Could you expand on that please? Always ready to learn something new!

Sure can. Your engine is an air pump. It sucks air in through the intake, and blows it out through the exhaust. Keeping the air flowing through that system is key, and not as straightforward as you might think. You don't - under any circumstances - want the airflow to stall. It can. And the reason it usually does is because of either an exhaust or intake system that is too large in diameter for the operating conditions the engine experiences.

Imagine an intake that is big enough for a 6.2L V8 on a 2400cc I4. It'll probably run fine at wide open throttle, but abruptly take your foot off the gas from WOT and it'll probably die. Why? Because the airflow in that oversized intake stalled and starved the engine for air. There's a sweet spot in which the diameters work best under most operating conditions. The stupid mistake that overly enthusiastic truck owners make is buying aftermarket intake and exhaust components that are optimized for race trucks that spend most of their operating lives at or near wide open throttle. But ask yourself these questions: "How much of my regular driving is spent with the pedal mashed to the floor?" and "How long would I keep my license if I drove that way?"

Automobile engineers know what they're doing. Yes, there are compromises. There have to be. But if your truck functions well the way you typically drive it, then making fundamental changes to the way it it runs will run the risk of proving unfortunate.

 

[pat247]

I guess I'll play devils advocate here. In the hayday of the gen 1 Raptor, Steeda offered a package deal that claimed 487 hp N/A using a 90mm throtle body and other bolt on goodies. If you are going to alter the factory configuration tuning is needed to keep things running right.