Are there better options for pads and rotors then OEM?

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Zeusmotorworks

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Also, sounds like of that 1%, just a pad swap would serve most. You don’t have to go all out and swap rotors and calipers. If you are, I’d look at the Wilwood direct bolt on kit. It was not available when I did the Alcons.

Again, I have no personal experience with them, but the Ford police package pads sound interesting for a pad only option. I’m sure that comes with more “dust” which is a down side for average Raptor owner. I could care less.
 

CVP33

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I’m sure that comes with more “dust” which is a down side for average Raptor owner. I could care less.

my experience:

- Higher friction pads, e.g. metallic = better stops
- Better stopping = more material (rotor and pad) rendered
- Material = dust

I also find that if you ceramic or graphene coat your wheels that brake dust is easy to remove. I, like you, could care less.
 

Johnny@Apollo-Optics

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Also, sounds like of that 1%, just a pad swap would serve most. You don’t have to go all out and swap rotors and calipers. If you are, I’d look at the Wilwood direct bolt on kit. It was not available when I did the Alcons.

Again, I have no personal experience with them, but the Ford police package pads sound interesting for a pad only option. I’m sure that comes with more “dust” which is a down side for average Raptor owner. I could care less.
I ran alcon on my gen 2, wilwoods on my gen 3. If wilwoods were out when I had my gen 2 id of 100% done them.

Nothing wrong with Alcons. I to this day said they were the #2 best mod on my gen 2 after leafs. But $3700 vs $1600 is a huge price gap and having run both, the difference is minimal at best. Yet alone the new pad/rotor cost is also about a 4x difference between the two brand.

Agreed 99% of owners wouod get by off of a rotor/pad (i highly endorse stainless lines as well) swap. Brakes may not be a fun modification for most, or “necessary”. But my day job is in the insurance world and the amount of times an accident couldve been avoided within just a few feets pretty impressively high.
 

smurfslayer

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"We've" alludes to Raptor Forum

Even from our own vendor



I'm sure their are more than just a few of us who have used some metric (g meter etc) to measure actual results. However, this is JUST this kit, on this platform. Their are countless others. Every time a tire "slides" braking distance is increased. ABS was not originally designed to reduce braking distance. Only to maintain control under panic braking. What it has become in extreme exotic cars should not be compared to an F150. There IS room for improvement less someone throwing a cinder block at the horizontal pedal.

That 2nd video seems more realistic to me; using 17’s as opposed to 20’s with before stopping distances much more realistic and close to what we’d expect, considering the press mules were getting closer to the 2nd video numbers. Practicing has traditionally shown better results than just slamming the brake pedal and letting ABS keep you out of the weeds.

I’m still jaundiced by previous, really poor brakes. In my misspent early adulthood, I landed a ’69 Cougar, 460/C6/3.90 rear. With 4x drum brakes. Mostly it was just a cool/fun car to have but, I did get to drag race it once. After going over the line, I hit the brake then pressed more because nothing was happening, then more, and more - and it was barely slowing at all. It felt like I basically coasted to about 70 and then it finally felt like I was stopping. And then it took some more time until I got to a low enough speed I could make a VERY wide turn get back.

Ever since then, all my vehicles have had outstanding brakes. :)

Great info.
 

dsiggi

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That 2nd video seems more realistic to me; using 17’s as opposed to 20’s with before stopping distances much more realistic and close to what we’d expect, considering the press mules were getting closer to the 2nd video numbers. Practicing has traditionally shown better results than just slamming the brake pedal and letting ABS keep you out of the weeds.

I’m still jaundiced by previous, really poor brakes. In my misspent early adulthood, I landed a ’69 Cougar, 460/C6/3.90 rear. With 4x drum brakes. Mostly it was just a cool/fun car to have but, I did get to drag race it once. After going over the line, I hit the brake then pressed more because nothing was happening, then more, and more - and it was barely slowing at all. It felt like I basically coasted to about 70 and then it finally felt like I was stopping. And then it took some more time until I got to a low enough speed I could make a VERY wide turn get back.

Ever since then, all my vehicles have had outstanding brakes. :)

Great info.
This is funny. I always ask my buddy that has some classic cars, how they were back in the day from the factory. Ie Well the car doesnt stop great (1970 Mach 1), so I asked him how they stopped direct from the factory. He says "they didnt, the pedal to the brake was a mere suggestion to the braking system".

That being said on the topic of Raptors, the factory stuff is fine most of the time but the police package stuff is interesting, didnt know about that, I bet they are metallic and lots of dust similar to the Shelby GT350R I have. The only place I've seen bad brake fad is when we run in the dessert each summer. You can heat up the OEM brakes fast in the raptor in the desert with high speeds and consistent hard braking.
 

shigman

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awesome. Looking forward to seeing it
Id like to see a video with stock wheels and tires. I have no doubt that with a heavier tire (likely more grip than the KO2) and overall heavier wheel and tire package you'll increase performance with more traction and a heavier setup to play with. I know that's ignoring fade, but if I run into a situation where I'm panic stopping 5 times in a row I'm doing something wrong or need to be in a different vehicle. If I'm hustling i tend to use gears to their max anyway which helps.

Does anyone have a working link to the police package brakes? I keep trying to hunt them down, but end up being for other vehicles.
 

smurfslayer

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This is funny. I always ask my buddy that has some classic cars, how they were back in the day from the factory. Ie Well the car doesnt stop great (1970 Mach 1), so I asked him how they stopped direct from the factory. He says "they didnt, the pedal to the brake was a mere suggestion to the braking system".

That being said on the topic of Raptors, the factory stuff is fine most of the time but the police package stuff is interesting, didnt know about that, I bet they are metallic and lots of dust similar to the Shelby GT350R I have. The only place I've seen bad brake fad is when we run in the dessert each summer. You can heat up the OEM brakes fast in the raptor in the desert with high speeds and consistent hard braking.
He’s not exaggerating! And yeah, it’s funny now, but I promise I am not stretching the truth. That run would have been at Maryland Int’l Raceway (MIR) - I bought the car from a Sailor at Dahlgren. It would have been late 90’s and I remember it being about a 13.7 at a few over 100 mph. The shame of it is, my ZX11 did low 11’s at 135 and I was going really easy on the clutch, not full Ricky Gadson.

There’s definitely fade on the stock Rap brakes. They’re adequate for the purpose but I am certainly not begrudging anyone upgrading the Rap brakes.
The all in cost though... I have to admit that I’ve not delved far enough into this to know what 17’s will accommodate larger brakes and any other requirements. First, I have to spend some $$$ doing some work to keep the truck mine, I’m not modding for the dude who tries to steal it.
 
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