Anyone has a roughish idle (vibration) but only when stopped at D or R?

[mustlistenfc]

Anyone else have motor vibration when you come to a stop say at a red light while waiting for the green?

it only happens when gears are D or R with idle. when I switch to P or N during the stop on the red light, the vibration is gone away.

My raptor has 600 rpm with idle at D and R and 700 rpm at P and N

I used to have tundra and switch to raptor couple months ago and the tundra has some vibration too, but I feel little be more with rough idle with 2022 raptor.

 

[SurfRaptor]

I just commented on another post that was similar to this one. I'd really like to get this figured out. My rough idle happens for sure. It's silly if this could be considered normal. My jeep with 227k miles ran smoother than this brand-new truck. I was considering replacing spark plugs myself to see if it solved the issue. I could have sworn that the first 5k miles of ownership were extremely smooth. Then this rough idle in park or at a stop light started right around the 5-6k mark. It's intermittent too, which points towards a vacuum leak sometimes than a bad coil or plug. I was planning on buying a spare coil and plug for the trail anyway.

Can ForScan show data while the vehicle is in idle to see how each cylinder is performing?

 

[2020FordRaptor]

Anyone else have motor vibration when you come to a stop say at a red light while waiting for the green?

it only happens when gears are D or R with idle. when I switch to P or N during the stop on the red light, the vibration is gone away.

My raptor has 600 rpm with idle at D and R and 700 rpm at P and N

I used to have tundra and switch to raptor couple months ago and the tundra has some vibration too, but I feel little be more with rough idle with 2022 raptor.

Exact same on our Gen2.

 

[mustlistenfc]

I just commented on another post that was similar to this one. I'd really like to get this figured out. My rough idle happens for sure. It's silly if this could be considered normal. My jeep with 227k miles ran smoother than this brand-new truck. I was considering replacing spark plugs myself to see if it solved the issue. I could have sworn that the first 5k miles of ownership were extremely smooth. Then this rough idle in park or at a stop light started right around the 5-6k mark. It's intermittent too, which points towards a vacuum leak sometimes than a bad coil or plug. I was planning on buying a spare coil and plug for the trail anyway.

Can ForScan show data while the vehicle is in idle to see how each cylinder is performing?

I was looking to change the idle rpm from 600 to 700 with forscan. but no luck. I looked it up this problem from our forums and other, but it looks one of common issue with 3.5 eco boost engine...

 

[Torchy]

Same for me, it didn't do it for the first 8000 miles on my 2021.

I think I found mine. Pulled the engine cover the other day and saw a big oil build up on the PCV line from passenger head to front of manifold. Haven't pulled the cover since the truck had 1000 miles on it. Pulled it at 12,400 miles and thought it was really strange.

Even had pooled oil in the valleys of the valve cover. Immediately bought a JLT seperator.

Went to install it a few days ago and as I was taking off the oil soaked factory line, I pushed the mani side into the manifold and felt/heard a slight click. From the factory, it was not fully seated hence why oil was on the outside of the line. Also inspected the o-ring inside the factory line and it was good so further believing it wasn't seated from factory.

Put the seperator on and finished the job but the idle does seem to be better now in all gears.

Factory vacuum leak. Also these def seem to pull quite a bit of oil vapor from crankcase so highly recommend a seperator.

 

[mustlistenfc]

Same for me, it didn't do it for the first 8000 miles on my 2021.

I think I found mine. Pulled the engine cover the other day and saw a big oil build up on the PCV line from passenger head to front of manifold. Haven't pulled the cover since the truck had 1000 miles on it. Pulled it at 12,400 miles and thought it was really strange.

Even had pooled oil in the valleys of the valve cover. Immediately bought a JLT seperator.

Went to install it a few days ago and as I was taking off the oil soaked factory line, I pushed the mani side into the manifold and felt/heard a slight click. From the factory, it was not fully seated hence why oil was on the outside of the line. Also inspected the o-ring inside the factory line and it was good so further believing it wasn't seated from factory.

Put the seperator on and finished the job but the idle does seem to be better now in all gears.

Factory vacuum leak. Also these def seem to pull quite a bit of oil vapor from crankcase so highly recommend a seperator.

did you buy single CAN passenger side JLT separator? any idle rpm changed after installed?

 

[SurfRaptor]

I'm going to check the PCV valve area this weekend when I get a chance. The air filter box is another concern area of mine. Is it a weird design that it just compresses the gasket of the air filter, rather than it completely fitting inside and then also compressing?. I guess what I am trying to say is.... remove your air filter completely and buckle it all back up without the filter and then put the filter in and see how much of the gasket of the air filter is technically exposed. It all fits back together so much better without a filter than with. It almost feels with your hand like this is where we are losing air on this truck. I could be way off, and you could need a smoke test to even see if this is where it is, but I changed the air filter out at 10k since I did a few off-road trips with it too, and it was a real pain to get it to fit correctly with a brand-new OEM motorcraft. Thoughts on this design or it is just simply "user error" which would be me.

 

[Torchy]

did you buy single CAN passenger side JLT separator? any idle rpm changed after installed?

Yep bought just the passenger side and truck runs just fine with it. No RPM change anywhere.

Have had 2 other raptors, 19 and 20 and both ran just fine with passenger side only JLT as well.

 

[Torchy]

I'm going to check the PCV valve area this weekend when I get a chance. The air filter box is another concern area of mine. Is it a weird design that it just compresses the gasket of the air filter, rather than it completely fitting inside and then also compressing?. I guess what I am trying to say is.... remove your air filter completely and buckle it all back up without the filter and then put the filter in and see how much of the gasket of the air filter is technically exposed. It all fits back together so much better without a filter than with. It almost feels with your hand like this is where we are losing air on this truck. I could be way off, and you could need a smoke test to even see if this is where it is, but I changed the air filter out at 10k since I did a few off-road trips with it too, and it was a real pain to get it to fit correctly with a brand-new OEM motorcraft. Thoughts on this design or it is just simply "user error" which would be me.

Respectfully, this effects nothing as it's before any sensor that reads air and it's where air begins into the motor.

Also you'll need a deep socket 10MM with an extension to take off engine cover FYI. Using an extendable magent to put the nuts back on helps too.

 

[V_K]

Do you gen 2 guys still have this problem? And were you able to fix it?