Alternative High-Beam Connection ?

[FordTechOne]

Yeah ... sorry but if one uses the contact less CAN reader it says:

The Contact-less Reader option allows the CAN Bus interface to read vehicle CAN Bus data without any actual metal to metal connection between the interface and the vehicle CAN Bus. The reader is secured around a section of the vehicle CAN Bus wiring and data is read by an induction method, thus protecting any manufacturers warranty.

https://www.canm8.com/cannect-contactless-reader/canm8-cannect-contactless-reader-12-30v.html

Forgive my ignorance, but i thought this could be safe.
Assuming the High beam CAN relay recognizes the F150 - which is not sure yet.

That’s interesting and seems like it may be a good solution. Since it’s not tapped into the network, there’s no chance of it affecting communication. I’m impressed that it can read the CAN messages inductively.

Speaking of inductive, perhaps there is a company that sells an inductive pickup setup that could be attached around the high beam wire to act as a trigger? When current flow is present, the inductive switch could activate the accessory relays for the aftermarket lighting. That would eliminate the need to tap into the factory circuits.

 

[FordTechOne]

What about this setup below:

Maybe I missed it, but I wasn’t able to tell what he was using to activate his relay setup. Was it a factory circuit?

 

[GordoJay]

That’s interesting and seems like it may be a good solution. Since it’s not tapped into the network, there’s no chance of it affecting communication. I’m impressed that it can read the CAN messages inductively.

Speaking of inductive, perhaps there is a company that sells an inductive pickup setup that could be attached around the high beam wire to act as a trigger? When current flow is present, the inductive switch could activate the accessory relays for the aftermarket lighting. That would eliminate the need to tap into the factory circuits.

Inductive coupling requires an AC signal, so if the high beam wire is static high/low, it won't work.

 

[FordTechOne]

Inductive coupling requires an AC signal, so if the high beam wire is static high/low, it won't work.

Hmm...good point. I was thinking of an amp clamp.

 

[sixshooter_45]

Maybe I missed it, but I wasn’t able to tell what he was using to activate his relay setup. Was it a factory circuit?

I contacted Keith Mandoske who designed this and sent him the FRF link.

I told him I didn't want to misquote him and asked if he would mind coming here to explain his design.

He stated he would come here to explain how he receives power from the high beam circuit to pickup a micro relay utilizing the number 6 aux switch and how you can add a separate switch if one wants to use all six aux switches for lights.

 

[Kmandoske]

Maybe I missed it, but I wasn’t able to tell what he was using to activate his relay setup. Was it a factory circuit?

Hey, I know that guy, its me. So to answer a few questions. first, i tap into the BCM inside the cab in the passangerside foot well, I have not had a problem with any codes or issues and im pretty sure it does not cause the cam phaser problems. I had this system on my Gen 1 (2013) truck for 4 years, and I have had it on my Gen 2 (2018 truck since I got it in Ovtober of 2017 with ZERO issues or codes. FordTechOne, had stated that tapping that circuit causes probblem but I would venture to say the following; My guess is that some people have tried to tie lights int othe circuit and not just trigger a relay, that of couse would cause a problem, Second if people are using it to tap relays, my guess is they are using 30/40 or 40/50 large relay and it may possible be causing more amp draw than the computer can stand and causes a code, lastly I would speculate that people are either cutting a wire under the hood or using a t-tap under the hood and its getting wet and corroding and causing an issue in that regard. By tapping the BCM with a T-Tap in a dry clean location and using 30/40 micro relays, I have not run ito a problem. BTW I have sold over 70 of these solutions and have not had one person complain or call me with an issue. If you have any quesitons about my product or videos, please call. I'm availalbe 9am to 9pm 7 days a week 9 central time) 312-317-9444 Also I don't drive parking lot queens, my truck have been in 30" of water, mud and ice covereds so please don't think that the truck is spotless.......its along way from that.

 

[sixshooter_45]

Hey, I know that guy, its me. So to answer a few questions. first, i tap into the BCM inside the cab in the passangerside foot well, I have not had a problem with any codes or issues and im pretty sure it does not cause the cam phaser problems. I had this system on my Gen 1 (2013) truck for 4 years, and I have had it on my Gen 2 (2018 truck since I got it in Ovtober of 2017 with ZERO issues or codes. FordTechOne, had stated that tapping that circuit causes probblem but I would venture to say the following; My guess is that some people have tried to tie lights int othe circuit and not just trigger a relay, that of couse would cause a problem, Second if people are using it to tap relays, my guess is they are using 30/40 or 40/50 large relay and it may possible be causing more amp draw than the computer can stand and causes a code, lastly I would speculate that people are either cutting a wire under the hood or using a t-tap under the hood and its getting wet and corroding and causing an issue in that regard. By tapping the BCM with a T-Tap in a dry clean location and using 30/40 micro relays, I have not run ito a problem. BTW I have sold over 70 of these solutions and have not had one person complain or call me with an issue. If you have any quesitons about my product or videos, please call. I'm availalbe 9am to 9pm 7 days a week 9 central time) 312-317-9444 Also I don't drive parking lot queens, my truck have been in 30" of water, mud and ice covereds so please don't think that the truck is spotless.......its along way from that.

Thanks for taking your time and coming here to give your input.

 

[FordTechOne]

Hey, I know that guy, its me. So to answer a few questions. first, i tap into the BCM inside the cab in the passangerside foot well, I have not had a problem with any codes or issues and im pretty sure it does not cause the cam phaser problems. I had this system on my Gen 1 (2013) truck for 4 years, and I have had it on my Gen 2 (2018 truck since I got it in Ovtober of 2017 with ZERO issues or codes. FordTechOne, had stated that tapping that circuit causes probblem but I would venture to say the following; My guess is that some people have tried to tie lights int othe circuit and not just trigger a relay, that of couse would cause a problem, Second if people are using it to tap relays, my guess is they are using 30/40 or 40/50 large relay and it may possible be causing more amp draw than the computer can stand and causes a code, lastly I would speculate that people are either cutting a wire under the hood or using a t-tap under the hood and its getting wet and corroding and causing an issue in that regard. By tapping the BCM with a T-Tap in a dry clean location and using 30/40 micro relays, I have not run ito a problem. BTW I have sold over 70 of these solutions and have not had one person complain or call me with an issue. If you have any quesitons about my product or videos, please call. I'm availalbe 9am to 9pm 7 days a week 9 central time) 312-317-9444 Also I don't drive parking lot queens, my truck have been in 30" of water, mud and ice covereds so please don't think that the truck is spotless.......its along way from that.

Your relay setup looks to be great quality, and I like that it mounts securely.

That being said, from an OE technician perspective I do have some concerns. The use of T-taps/scotch locks is not a good practice regardless of whether it’s an OE or aftermarket circuit. They damage the insulation and often cut into the wire strands, lowering the circuit’s ability to carry a load. They also allow moisture intrusion since they are not sealed. The kick panel is a very common location to experience corrosion due to it’s proximity to the door jamb and footwell. I’ve lost track of the number of times I’ve found corroded circuits and terminals in kick panel and door sill areas.

Have you done an IDS On-Demand Self Test of the BCM with the relay box powered on? Driving any load off of an FET in the BCM is never advised; you’re always risking BCM damage. The FETs are designed only for the specific load that OE components draw. If your relay is small enough you may be able to get away with it, but depending on ambient temperature, battery voltage, etc you could still have DTCs setting with no visible indication. If the same DTC sets a predetermined amount of times, it bricks the BCM. I have seen vehicles with aftermarket circuits tied into the BCM last anywhere from less than a day to years, but if the load is above spec, it will eventually fail.

As a potential improvement, I would suggest a a proper soldered/heat shrink splice and a solid state relay to eliminate the current draw and any flyback voltage on the BCM FET. That would minimize the potential for any issues on the OE side.

@The Car Stereo Company any thoughts?

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

Your relay setup looks to be great quality, and I like that it mounts securely.

That being said, from an OE technician perspective I do have some concerns. The use of T-taps/scotch locks is not a good practice regardless of whether it’s an OE or aftermarket circuit. They damage the insulation and often cut into the wire strands, lowering the circuit’s ability to carry a load. They also allow moisture intrusion since they are not sealed. The kick panel is a very common location to experience corrosion due to it’s proximity to the door jamb and footwell. I’ve lost track of the number of times I’ve found corroded circuits and terminals in kick panel and door sill areas.

Have you done an IDS On-Demand Self Test of the BCM with the relay box powered on? Driving any load off of an FET in the BCM is never advised; you’re always risking BCM damage. The FETs are designed only for the specific load that OE components draw. If your relay is small enough you may be able to get away with it, but depending on ambient temperature, battery voltage, etc you could still have DTCs setting with no visible indication. If the same DTC sets a predetermined amount of times, it bricks the BCM. I have seen vehicles with aftermarket circuits tied into the BCM last anywhere from less than a day to years, but if the load is above spec, it will eventually fail.

As a potential improvement, I would suggest a a proper soldered/heat shrink splice and a solid state relay to eliminate the current draw and any flyback voltage on the BCM FET. That would minimize the potential for any issues on the OE side.

@The Car Stereo Company any thoughts?

the t tap, scotch lock connectors work great in bind, but yes, not the ideal connection. when getting sensitive wires at the bcm, i always do a wire to wire connection. meaning i strip back the insulation and tie the new wire into it with solder. sensitive wires can trigger codes dues to a connection such as a butt connector, t tap, scotchlock. the resistance in the connector can cause issues. over the years, when calling tech support for various components, the first thing they ask, is how is the connection made? i have had a few past experiences where a butt connector caused too much resistance and the component wouldnt work, but solder did, so a wire to wire connection will work best in this application.

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

also, a solid state relay, or an lvt to trigger the standard relays would be ideal