Don’t forget your source also affects your audio quality.
After many months, finally got my Gen 2
- Thread starter CJitty
- Start date
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Welcome .. and when you can afford to paint that primer or have it wrapped - Black. #BlackRaptorMatters #NothingBetterThanBlackRaptor
Yep..i tried everything. Even spoke to Ford dealer today. They said they are aware of an update to the sync system that altered sound properties but would not fix under warranty because I would be go back to previous version. I'd have to pay about 1hr labor. Sounds crazy to me....
So quick update. Apparently there is an issue with 2020 Raptors produced Oct 2019 or older that requires a fix. So if you have a 2020 that meets this criteria and it seems like you have to crank your system near 25-30 to really hear anything..this is the issue.
Communication Number: SSM 48346, Date: 2019-11-25 Category: 110000 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM Summary: Some 2020 F-150 vehicle equipped with Bang and Olufsen audio system built on or before 14-Oct-2019 at Dearborn Truck Plant may exhibit speaker volume that is too low and will not increase. This may be due to incorrect configuration
Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/tsb/2020/ford/f_150/
Copyright OBD-Codes.com
Communication Number: SSM 48346, Date: 2019-11-25 Category: 110000 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM Summary: Some 2020 F-150 vehicle equipped with Bang and Olufsen audio system built on or before 14-Oct-2019 at Dearborn Truck Plant may exhibit speaker volume that is too low and will not increase. This may be due to incorrect configuration
Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/tsb/2020/ford/f_150/
Copyright OBD-Codes.com
smurfslayer
Be vewwy, vewwy quiet. We’re hunting sasquatch77
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Welcome to FRF!
Honestly... Go aftermarket. Don’t waste the time, energy and thought process trying to “improve” the factory stereo. There are numerous threads dating to 2017 on this. in 2018, Ford moved from Sony to B&O and the latter has a few less options but a comparable cost to upgrade well.
You need a decent set of speakers first and foremost, and when you pull the factory speakers, you’ll understand why. You can do this for as little as $250 or so, but fronts will be better served with component set as opposed to coax. Not 100% necessary but if you’re going this far, worth it.
Popping the door panels is super easy. 2 bottom screws, door handle screws, and using a body panel kit, the rest is just gently popping the clips off. You can drape a towel over the door, and tie the door panel to the door with the window down (because I truly hate trying to get that door latch cable set connected and disconnected). While you’re in here, you can also put some sound deadening material on the doors. It does help. It’s probably $150 for enough to panel the doors or so. This too is time consuming so do at the same time as speakers.
DSP: I have the sony system- someone with an ‘18+ help this brother out. Expect a few hundred bucks on this. You need to preserve the Sync functions best you can. Plug and play harnesses are available to minimize wiring difficulty and make these installs very consumer friendly.
Sub+amp. Depends on what you want. I need floor space so I ended up going with the Mobile Toys behind the seat 10” enclosure, w/ JL Audio shallow sub and amp. They have dual setups for 10’s, 12’s and I think larger subs but talk to them. I paid $900 all in.
Amp or amps: Plural for me - I sourced one from crutchfield for under a hundred bucks on sale at 75w RMS
Cabling: Power and ground cables need about 22-24’ for runs from the battery. Go big, don’t do it a 2nd time. If you think you need 8 gauge wire, get 4. if you think you need 4, get 2. etc. Better to have more cable than you “need” than not enough. Make sure connections are properly done, secure, insulated and solid. They need to not only be vibration proof, but off road rated.
Once you have your components, spend a day ahead of time, mapping things out. Cable runs can be done in advance, and secured without connecting. This is a time consuming part of the install. Speakers can be installed ahead of the major work too. work out where your amp(s) will be mounted, make sure you have connectors, fuses, hardware to secure the amps, spares.
On install day, pull your factory sub and factory amp, and replace. Test fit the mount and cabling. Wire it up without the fuses at first, double check your connections, wiring path, etc. Do smoke test - power on, confirm fuses are intact and you have power and ground to the amp or amps. If all is well begin connecting in the DSP. It may require an app to configure or update.
If sub and amp go behind the seat, you may need to cut the rear wall liner. Get that sorted, and wire it up.
Now it’s just configuring. You can stick with “flat signal” and have a stereo that is 100% superior to the stock stereo sound imaging.
Self done, you can do this easily under $3k.
Why? Use an iPhone to listen to a song with a strong rhythm track. something heavy with rhythm guitar for example. Now, listen to the same track in the truck. The rhythm track will be either gone, or basically a solid tone throughout. The stock sound mapping completely destroys these songs.
After the upgrade you get 3 main benefits.
1) much more true to life sound.
2) significantly more volume
3) An order of magnitude more precision in the sound.
You can cruise at 75mph, windows down and still clearly hear music. No amount of tinkering with the stock system will be as precise, loud or true to life in sound reproduction.
Hold up Homey... ;-)
Honestly... Go aftermarket. Don’t waste the time, energy and thought process trying to “improve” the factory stereo. There are numerous threads dating to 2017 on this. in 2018, Ford moved from Sony to B&O and the latter has a few less options but a comparable cost to upgrade well.
You need a decent set of speakers first and foremost, and when you pull the factory speakers, you’ll understand why. You can do this for as little as $250 or so, but fronts will be better served with component set as opposed to coax. Not 100% necessary but if you’re going this far, worth it.
Popping the door panels is super easy. 2 bottom screws, door handle screws, and using a body panel kit, the rest is just gently popping the clips off. You can drape a towel over the door, and tie the door panel to the door with the window down (because I truly hate trying to get that door latch cable set connected and disconnected). While you’re in here, you can also put some sound deadening material on the doors. It does help. It’s probably $150 for enough to panel the doors or so. This too is time consuming so do at the same time as speakers.
DSP: I have the sony system- someone with an ‘18+ help this brother out. Expect a few hundred bucks on this. You need to preserve the Sync functions best you can. Plug and play harnesses are available to minimize wiring difficulty and make these installs very consumer friendly.
Sub+amp. Depends on what you want. I need floor space so I ended up going with the Mobile Toys behind the seat 10” enclosure, w/ JL Audio shallow sub and amp. They have dual setups for 10’s, 12’s and I think larger subs but talk to them. I paid $900 all in.
Amp or amps: Plural for me - I sourced one from crutchfield for under a hundred bucks on sale at 75w RMS
Cabling: Power and ground cables need about 22-24’ for runs from the battery. Go big, don’t do it a 2nd time. If you think you need 8 gauge wire, get 4. if you think you need 4, get 2. etc. Better to have more cable than you “need” than not enough. Make sure connections are properly done, secure, insulated and solid. They need to not only be vibration proof, but off road rated.
Once you have your components, spend a day ahead of time, mapping things out. Cable runs can be done in advance, and secured without connecting. This is a time consuming part of the install. Speakers can be installed ahead of the major work too. work out where your amp(s) will be mounted, make sure you have connectors, fuses, hardware to secure the amps, spares.
On install day, pull your factory sub and factory amp, and replace. Test fit the mount and cabling. Wire it up without the fuses at first, double check your connections, wiring path, etc. Do smoke test - power on, confirm fuses are intact and you have power and ground to the amp or amps. If all is well begin connecting in the DSP. It may require an app to configure or update.
If sub and amp go behind the seat, you may need to cut the rear wall liner. Get that sorted, and wire it up.
Now it’s just configuring. You can stick with “flat signal” and have a stereo that is 100% superior to the stock stereo sound imaging.
Self done, you can do this easily under $3k.
Why? Use an iPhone to listen to a song with a strong rhythm track. something heavy with rhythm guitar for example. Now, listen to the same track in the truck. The rhythm track will be either gone, or basically a solid tone throughout. The stock sound mapping completely destroys these songs.
After the upgrade you get 3 main benefits.
1) much more true to life sound.
2) significantly more volume
3) An order of magnitude more precision in the sound.
You can cruise at 75mph, windows down and still clearly hear music. No amount of tinkering with the stock system will be as precise, loud or true to life in sound reproduction.
smurfslayer
Be vewwy, vewwy quiet. We’re hunting sasquatch77
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Oh and
#OneLessprius
#BlackRaptorsMatter
#AntiMatterBlueRaptorsAreNotBlackEnough
#OneLessprius
#BlackRaptorsMatter
#AntiMatterBlueRaptorsAreNotBlackEnough
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