A/C

[Z7What]

Hey guys, sorry i hadnt been around for a while to give an update. Nothing much to say other than a little more info about the crappy A/C, but with this info, theres nothing that we can do to correctly fix it other than with the resistor. I am friends with the service manager at the local Ford dealer near my house. He and myself grabbed the IDS computer and went to my truck. After getting it set up we we monitored the Evap Temp Sensor Readings and watched the temp get down to 36* which is when the compressor disengages, the temps slowly climb to 48* and then the compressor reengages. You see PER FORD SPECS the Evap Temp Sensor should disengage the compressor at 36* as it does but shoud reengage it at 38* but my truck doesnt reengage the compressor until it gets to 48*.

So basically its a programming issue thats the cause of the crappy A/C. All Ford needs to do is provide a update to fix this. But im willing to bet they wont!

Ford Engineers have told me that anything over a 20*(IIRC) difference between ambient temp and vent temp is within spec. I call BS because no where in FORDS SERVICE MANUAL is a difference between ambient temp and vent temp stated to be within spec. What IS stated is that the Evap Temp Sensor should cycle between 36-38*.

Wayne

 

[MTF]

Getting Ford to anything for the 2010 1/2 to 2014 Raptors is going to hard, that's for sure.
But Ford did surprise me with the Sync update, it took three years but they finally did fix the whole mess.

Everyone who looks at this thread should call Ford Customer service and complain, this is the only way Ford looks at issues.

 

[Lvrkight6481]

I know this is a few months old. But just wasted to say thanks for the info after 3 trips to the dealer and get run around. With this info and the other f150 forum going to try the resistor mod and go from there.

 

[Boricuaevo8]

Bring this thread back from the grave just to ask how are the “mods” holding up? I have some 820K resistors ready and waiting to be “modded”

 

[1BAD454SS]

Been good so far i have resistors on my 10 raptor and 14 Tremor. I did another Mod a few weeks ago, that is different this summer , I have the radiator cooling fans wired with a separate 70 amp relay and fuse and connectors . I can control manually with an upfitter switch. I noticed at certain MPH 40+ , the fans shut off. Since leaving them on full blast i consistently have 40 degrees coming out left drivers vent furthest from evaporator. 106 degrees outside hottest so far . It cools off a lot faster also. Also my engine coolant never gets hotter than 205 deg on hwy now and 190 city. I was dealing with some high coolant temps at 75mph , because of the huge whipple intercooler and add bumper Focking up the air flow. Defiantly nice having the cold A/C. Next Winter looking at a Ron Davis radiator and putting back the smaller intercooler. The huge extreme whipple intercooler could cool a small block chevy easily.

 

[Boricuaevo8]

Been good so far i have resistors on my 10 raptor and 14 Tremor. I did another Mod a few weeks ago, that is different this summer , I have the radiator cooling fans wired with a separate 70 amp relay and fuse and connectors . I can control manually with an upfitter switch. I noticed at certain MPH 40+ , the fans shut off. Since leaving them on full blast i consistently have 40 degrees coming out left drivers vent furthest from evaporator. 106 degrees outside hottest so far . It cools off a lot faster also. Also my engine coolant never gets hotter than 205 deg on hwy now and 190 city. I was dealing with some high coolant temps at 75mph , because of the huge whipple intercooler and add bumper Focking up the air flow. Defiantly nice having the cold A/C. Next Winter looking at a Ron Davis radiator and putting back the smaller intercooler. The huge extreme whipple intercooler could cool a small block chevy easily.

That’s great to know, thanks for posting updates! Looking forward to doing this myself.

 

[dataustin]

Ok, after 195,000 miles, my 1st problem with the truck.....no air is blowing thru the vents. It seems like there are multiple fuses involved and even a resister behind the glove box. Does anyone have advice on where I should start looking on my 2011 SCREW?

 

[BKA]

820k resistor is 820,000 ohms, your putting it in parallel with oem sensor. 820k offsets oem sensor 10 degrees. With what you have installed its offsetting way way higher it will think the box is at 140 degrees or something. It definatly will never cycle the compressor. I would remove it till you get the right one. http://www.petervis.com/electronics/Standard_Resistor_Values/820K.html

Going to try this resistor solution and have a question, I find 820K resistors that are 1/4 watt, 1/2 watt, 1 watt, does it matter which wattage I choose? Any other specifications I should be looking for?