2018 New motor recommendations

[TwizzleStix]

Good question. The easy answer is to run about 1/2qt more oil. The harder answer is an aftermarket oil pan. I just try to keep the oil just over full. You can look into the https://www.tunedbyzfgracing.com/ web site or ask Adam of @ZFG Racing for more advice.
If you only do a serious launch brake-boosted from full stop once in a while it really shouldn’t be a big problem. The worst case is letting the oil be a bit low and launching it hard like a day at the drag strip, or just being nuts on the street

 

[91Eunos]

Tagged for what’s soon to be a new motor for me… Need new cam phasers (4th time), but at 112K miles it doesn’t make sense to just do the front end. One of those “since I’m in there” type situations.

Will probably do the actual R&R myself, but not really capable (or interested) in building the new engine myself.

Will also upgrade the turbos and all ancillary systems while I’m at it. Only real debate for my situation is whether I should simply order a long block, or take my current engine to a builder. Need to start doing a cost analysis/comparison…

Mountune has built Gen2 Raptor short and long blocks ranging from $7K to $16K depending on how far I want to take this…I’m not looking for a lot of top end, so the basic non-sleeved built 3.5L short block will probably be my pick.

I like the stuff I’m seeing in the videos @full-race geoff is putting out there on his build, and will reach out to Headgames for a quote on replicating the Gen2.5 heads on Geoff’s truck. Will also reach out to his POC (former co-worker) up in Austin to get an estimate on a rebuild.

Anyone here already been down this path? If so, who did you go with for parts, labor, etc?

I’ve built race cars, bikes, etc. for most of my life, but a bit out of practice the past 10 years… Any big things to watch out for on these Gen2 Raptors?

 

[sobiloff]

Unfortunately I'm in a similar boat with my '17 (only 70K miles). I just spent $6K with FordTechMakuloco to redo the phasers and upgrade to an all-metal oil pan, but now with the phaser noise gone there's the distinct sound of a spun bearing. I'm broke as eff (anyone want to hire an agile software project manager with 20+ years experience?) so I'm looking for the least expensive way to get a new engine. A long or short block seems to be the answer, but I don't know who to trust to supply one.

 

[full-race geoff]

I just spent $6K with FordTechMakuloco to redo the phasers and upgrade to an all-metal oil pan, but now with the phaser noise gone there's the distinct sound of a spun bearing

$6k for phasers and oil pan! Was the oil pump replaced and is there a warranty on the work? if removing the oilpan and pickup was followed by bearing damage it is likely not a coincidence

 

[New recaros]

$6k for phasers and oil pan! Was the oil pump replaced and is there a warranty on the work? if removing the oilpan and pickup was followed by bearing damage it is likely not a coincidence

Probably was not properly clean before the phaser work. If you have not changed the oil yet, get a good sample and send in.

 

[sobiloff]

$6k for phasers and oil pan! Was the oil pump replaced and is there a warranty on the work? if removing the oilpan and pickup was followed by bearing damage it is likely not a coincidence

BSG's phaser service upgrades most of the system to the Gen3 parts, like you recommend in your your Gen 2.5 build thread, as well as the belts, water pump, thermostat housing, and many of the hoses. I also had him replace my two-piece plastic pan with the one-piece metal pan because I was tired of having to replace the plastic one every couple of years when it'd crack and leak.

You can see his full video here:

No work was done on the oil pump. He did install the correct length oil pickup tube for the new pan (as well as the correct length dip stick). I'd love to be able to blame someone for the problem, but I believe the problem was present prior to BSG touching the truck. It started running rough at idle maybe 500 hundred miles before I took it to BSG, and I was hoping it was just the phasers getting worse. However, after the phasers were done and the associated noise was gone you could start to hear the clanking, and it's gotten progressively worse especially at cold startup:

I'm currently 2,000 miles from home and I don't trust the engine to make it back, so I'm trying to find someone to transport it back home in the hopes that I can rebuild it. Or, if the damage is too bad I guess I'm looking at a new short block.

Funny thing is that I never modded the motor because I wanted it to last a long time. No tunes, no CAI, nothing. Full syn oil changes every 5K. Oil analysis at every oil change showed low wear metals (but lots of nitration, as is common with all these engines). I think I just drew a short straw with this engine. But, spun bearings certainly aren't unheard of:

 

[91Eunos]

Great videos! Thanks for posting them.

I just checked my truck and have at least one hose with the crimped-on metal flange starting to split (explains my slow coolant leak), as well as a small oil leak at the front of my left-hand (driver’s side) valve cover.

As mentioned in this one, and a couple other threads, my truck’s at 112K miles now, and in need of new phasers…again…set #4 for me, but I’m just gonna rebuild/replace my motor at this point.

A couple options in progress. More to follow.

 

[thatJeepguy]

BSG's phaser service upgrades most of the system to the Gen3 parts, like you recommend in your your Gen 2.5 build thread, as well as the belts, water pump, thermostat housing, and many of the hoses. I also had him replace my two-piece plastic pan with the one-piece metal pan because I was tired of having to replace the plastic one every couple of years when it'd crack and leak.

You can see his full video here:

No work was done on the oil pump. He did install the correct length oil pickup tube for the new pan (as well as the correct length dip stick). I'd love to be able to blame someone for the problem, but I believe the problem was present prior to BSG touching the truck. It started running rough at idle maybe 500 hundred miles before I took it to BSG, and I was hoping it was just the phasers getting worse. However, after the phasers were done and the associated noise was gone you could start to hear the clanking, and it's gotten progressively worse especially at cold startup:

I'm currently 2,000 miles from home and I don't trust the engine to make it back, so I'm trying to find someone to transport it back home in the hopes that I can rebuild it. Or, if the damage is too bad I guess I'm looking at a new short block.

Funny thing is that I never modded the motor because I wanted it to last a long time. No tunes, no CAI, nothing. Full syn oil changes every 5K. Oil analysis at every oil change showed low wear metals (but lots of nitration, as is common with all these engines). I think I just drew a short straw with this engine. But, spun bearings certainly aren't unheard of:

Dude that blows sorry to hear.

 

[full-race geoff]

thanks for the videos, great points re: the hose splits. Although I can’t understand going that far into a motor and not replacing the oil pump. These are very similar to coyote 5.0 oil pumps. Same wear patterns, same weaknesses. I will take photos of coyote and ecoboost oil pumps to show this visually

edit: if you know the guy at fordtechmakuloco - send him my gen2.5 valvetrain list. it looks like he is still using gen2 tensioner and plastic chain guides. also not changing oil pump, harmonic balancer or lifters/rollers

 

[sobiloff]

Thanks @full-race geoff ! I've emailed Brian (fordtechmakuloco) your list and a link to your Gen 2.5 build thread.

Separately, thanks for sharing all your work on your Gen 2.5 engine build! It looks like I'm going to following in your footsteps once I can get my truck shipped back to Reno. After I get the engine apart I'll see if it can be repaired/rebuilt, otherwise I'll probably be getting a new short block.